I'm in Chingford East London. Pressing the WOT switch,do you mean the metal strip on the side? If it is , it had no effect.
Okay so I take that back about the WOT switch I need to check it again. Going to have to wait till Friday now, working tomorrow. Thanks for your help and patience so far guys.
the WOT switch is the one on top, if you manually pull your throttle all the way open it should click, you just need to press this switch manually when the revs are held at around 1200-1300 to see if anything happens. if nothing happens, then you have a wiring issue to the ecu, if the idle drops a bit then raises again when released you know wiring is all fine. This wont tell you if the idle switch is working mind, to check that you need to check across the throttle body plug with a multimeter then open and close the throttle, it should go closed circuit when shut, open when the throttle is opened off the stop (and closed circuit again when at wide open throttle) another thign to check is if your isv is buzzing/vibrating with just the ignition on, if not check the wiring to it.
If the WOT switch is meant to dip the revs when the engine is cold, its not working. I haven't had an opportunity to try it warm , family emergency. I don't have a multimeter , I think I'll nip round to the local garage when I'm able. The ISV is buzzing. Is it likely to be the wiring to the WOT and not the switch itself? Do you have to take off the throttle housing to gain access to the switches for rewiring?
The wot switch only does something when the throttle is pinned, it shouldn't affect idling. Unless the switch is making a contact ALL the time. I can't remember if you can disconnect the wot switch easily on its own. If you get any cheap multimeter with continuity tester on it, we'll all happily explain how to check basic stuff. Maybe ask the mechanic what else he adjusted, in case he played with the mixture screw at the metering flap in the air filter box, or the spring in the metering flap unit itself.
the WOT switch and idle switch are both connected together, hence if you press iWOT switch with engine at around 1200-1500ish rpm the ecu will think the idle switch is pressed if you find the 2 pin plug on the back of the throttle body and loop a wire between the 2 pins this will simulate the WOT/idle switch being pressed. if doing so causes idle to drop as per my test above then you know ecu wiring is all good, issuer is with the idle switch. if no change then its ecu wiring or other issue causing your problem. as for getting to the switches if you remove the rubber boot and have an angle head ratchet you can just about get to the screws holding the idle switch on. fiddly but doable, or you can just remove the 4 allen head screws to remove the throttle body complete whatever is easier for you. probably want to source a replacement throttle body gasket mind! good time to give the tb a damn good clean, and poke down all the fpr vacuum port to make sure it's not clogged etc.
id have another chat and find out exactly what he messed with , if it ran fine before then its something he's messed up
