what is needed to put a vr6 in a mk1??

due to recent proplems with the 16v im starting to wonder about a different engine..
ive always loved the sound of a vr6 and know is possible to put it in a mk1 so how do i go about doing this..

just interested at the mo.. doesnt meen im going to get round to do doing it unless i think its not that much of a task to do in a month (want the car ready to go to stoner park, its 1 of my fav shows)

 

a shoe horn....

abf it and have better handling or 1.8t if you want big power

 

a welder, time, and a tape measure.

 

ok time i have welder i have so wot else? what about wire loom?? how hard is that to do?

 

theres been a fair few done, do a quick search on here, I dont know too much about the conversion apart from the fact that alot of good fabrication skills are needed.

 

repost [:^(]

 

well it isn`t easy, depends which way you wanna go about it

you could go with using the mounts and welding inside the chassis legs or mount in the mk2 subframe takes a little bit longer but allows power steering to be used , just think once mounted up and running sling a turbo on the back and rip any 20vt up with less booost,
oh and the handling its a myth

 

Ahummmm......http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186283

Not that hard to do.

 

The problem with using the Mk2 or Mk3 subframe is that it places the wishbone mounts in a different position, which means that you need to either cut & weld, or otherwise obtain, wishbones. And for UK MoT, the car will fail if the wishbone has been welded..... Not saying its unsafe, not saying its not possible to work round, but the MoT rules and the front suspension geometry/dimensions of a Mk1 Golf would give major problems to overcome. All told, there's no real advantage in using the subframe since the engine mounts can be welded directly onto the bodywork of the car. you'll need to fabricate suitable supporting brackets, and beef up the front crossmember, and of course align/position things properly - but that goes without saying!

 

Sorry, your talking utter tripe. Read your posts before posting and take a look at my build along with a few others on E38 etc.

 

I've read your posts, its not hype. Maybe you can clarify what you mean?

 

paul are you refering to the length of the wishbone being to long and needing cutting down to obtain a sensible amount of camber even with adjustable top mounts or the actual position of the wishbone is just in the wrong place?

 

Its neither wishbone (fore/aft or up/down) position, or camber, since both these can be set during the modifications.

Its the wishbone side-side position. If you use the Mk3 subframe on a Mk1 Golf, then you'd need to use Mk3 wishbones since the Mk1 ones won't fit. This puts the track so much wider than stock, that you'd need to also make extensive bodywork (outer wing) and possibly also wheeltub modifications to accommodate it; or shorten the wishbones.

 

sorry the side to side position is what I ment by the wrong place and I also meant about the track being too wide and not being able to get sensible camber due to the topmount location.

Certainly the side-side problem is just dependent on where you fit the subframe to on the car, there is a fair amount of leeway when it comes to the front-back positioning of the subframe so it can be aligned so the wheels are center to the arches.

As for the track issues its not a problem for people extending there arches and wanting a track set up but for a standardish look I agree that the subframe route is not the way to go.

I was playing with a mk2 subframe and a mk1 shell yesturday just looking at the concept really hence my interest.

 

Are you on drugs? never said anything about hype!? i said you talking tripe...wanted to put **** but it won't let me.

I have use a mk3 plus axle set up cause i want it wide track.The mountings are the same for a mk2 subframe set up.

If you use a mk2 gti subframe the width difference is negligable. You get PAS, 4 stud hubs etc. There is a lot of fabrication work to do to get it in looking factory.

If you cannot weld to a coded standard or fabricate i would suggest staying well away. I'd hate to have anyone injured or worse by bodging a mk2 subframe in any A1 chassis.

 

What's the front track of a Mk1 and Mk3 then? I agreee, its mainly the difference in front track which makes the subframe swap not the best technique. Are you happy with the camber setting you can achieve and the top mount/strut location?

 

It does indeed need some serious fabricating skills and good tools, I was just interested in what was actually done to achieve this so I thought id have a look. Not something im going to be jumping into fast but I do have 2 mk1 shells and running gear from a mk2 so the thoughts always been with me. I can weld very well now but id rather keep practicing different types of welding and techniques with other things before jumping into major structual stuff. (I have welded RSJ's for a barn convertion, thats pretty structual!)

 

Also worth bearing in mind, the Mk1 engine bay is quite narrow. If you do indeed put the Mk3 subframe in, naturally it has to be mounted centrally. Then if you fit the engine, it will be too close to the right hand chassis leg! The solution I used was to not use the subframe, weld 2 of the mounts to the Mk1 bodyshell, make my own custom mount for the other one, and use a custom left driveshaft.

Without getting into an internet argument, all I'd say to the original poster is you now have 2 different opinions on the approach. I'm not saying I'm right and micky1 is wrong, just that once I'd weighted up the pros and cons, I went the direct route, rather than subframe route. Here is a pic taken a year ago of my car:

 

cor
you guys are making this sound like a right mission! as much as id like to do this its starting to sound very complicated!
im sure there are many ways of going about it but theres no need to argue about it.

 

It's relatively easy to fit a subframe or fit mounts to take the engine.

Personally i would not VR a mk1 apart from to pose and they sound.

PaulC has ofset the engine which means custom mounts and drive shafts, thats his spin on the conversion.

There have been alot done with the engine in it's stock position which is tight to the O/S chassis leg but with a little tweeek it will clear no problems.

I have decided on a subframe as i have all the parts spare and i'm going 1.8T track car. Width isn't that important and i regard wider subframe and wishbones safer than running - off set 9" wide wheels.

Take a look, offer up the engine in the bay on a crane and YOU decide whats the best option for YOU. Good luck, if a can assist then just ask.