Got a new WUR for my mk2 16v. going to fit it tonight. Haynes says b*gger all about it [:^(] is it as easy as it looks? 2 x threaded holes for fuel lines, 1 x push on vacuum hose, 2 x bolts onto the cylinder head, 1 x electric plug. Obviously i will need to reset idle when fitted, does co need doing too? and been recommended to get set up of a rolling road too. are the bolts torque sensetive or just do up "tightish" Edited by: Andy99
Its as easy as it looks mate. 5min job. Just do the bolts up "tightish". It would be good to get it rolling roaded at somewhere that does the WUR mod like steath, in the meantime i'd get your CO level checked.
oh, one thing... are the fuel lines normal bolts? i don't need a special spanner to get them off do i?
Nope, they are normal 13mm, make sure you dont loose the small sealing washers when you take them off as well Also note the positions on the metering head and WUR.
Fitted it to my mk2 16v no probs, had to spend a fair bit of time adjusting idle, and guestimating CO by getting the engine running smoothly. I also swapped the ISV for a spare [8v digi one]. idles roughly when cold, souns like its misfiring a little, gets better when warm. but when i am coasting up to junctions etc, the engine starts to judder as if i am in to high a gear, but it does it from 2000rpm downward quite violently. any ideas?
was the warm up reg brand new ? my mk2 valver juddered under 2k then was fine above that i replaced it with another warm up reg i had and now its fine so maybe its that
Its the warm up regulator for cold running. It basically works via bi-metallic strip that alters the control pressure at the metering head depending on the temperature of the engine.
It comes off the pipe going to the ISV, that then connects to the rubber/plastic intake pipe between the metering head and throttle body. The connection on the WUR itself is at the left hand side when looking from the passenger side wing (RHD).
Would the ignition timing need resetting [is that turning the dizzy] after changing this? given that the idle screw had to be wound out by about 5 or 6 turns just to get it to idle once the wur was changed!! if yes, does that require a rolling road tune to do it properly? Anything else could be causing it? Edited by: Andy99
No, it wont affect the ignition timing. You can set it up yourself with a strobe. Not sure what could be causing it to be honest mate, when did the problem start? Did it do the same thing with the old WUR?
i've only had the car 3 months or so, when i bought it i knew it needed some work, including a bottom end, so no test drive. The idle micro switch plug was disconnected but it idled ok, hunting a little bit, only stalling at junctions occasionally. I reconnected the idle micro switch plug and it made no difference, still a little stalling at junctions and slight hunting at idle. I though the ISV needed replacing, but took it to a vw specialist to have an oil leak fixed and a hotgolf exhaust cam fitted. He pointed out that the WUR was dead as he could hear an air leak and the car was running very rich at idle. Fitted the new WUR, adjusted idle and bodged CO to get the engine to run, but it is sounding like it is missfiring at idle when cold and no power until about 2000rpm until the car warms up. Seems to me like a problem with fuelling still which seems to sort itself once the car is warmed up. Getting 15mpg on the MFA round town [:^(] also backed up by a rapidly falling fuel gauge. Also the idle is slightly worse when the car is warm, that when cold. One thing, the CV joints are very dead, so could they be causing the jerking on overrun? wasn't doing it before changing the wur though. Edited by: Andy99
