look at the WUR. it has two fuel pipes side by side, one has a 13mm bolt, one has a 14mm bolts keep coming forwards from the 14mm bolt, round from the side of the WUR facing the battery, to the front of the WUR facing the radiator. there is a black rubber hose pushed onto a 2" long metal casting coming out of the front of the WUR, the rubber hose then goes up into anthoer pipe under the ISV Edited by: Andy99
Sounds like you're new WUR is fecked in that case then mate. I would get yourself another one. The CV joints shouldnt cause jerking on the overun, you might feel a little transmission lag at most but nothing more.
To be honest Andy you're very lucky if you can guestimate the CO accurately, I'd suggest getting it set up properly before you throw any more parts at it.
I decent gas analyser will do, don't forget the breather pipe should be removed from the block and routed so it draws in fresh air, plus the red/black wire at the coild should be dissconected to stop the ISV fighting you.
I've been removing the breather from the airbox end and stuffing a rag in the hole on the airbox, but leaving the end of the pipe open. Is tht correct? I have been disconnecting the ISV lead when setting idle. cheers for advice everyone
Removing the breather from the airbox is no good when measuring the CO as there is a small pipe off the main pipe that still feeds fumes into the engine, you must disconect it at the breather block on the engine. Unpluging the ISV is also no good, it just kills it, you need to disconect the lead by the coil, this puts the ISV in a set position to adjust the idle.
Was a thread about the 8v isv being different from the 16v one. Then again im not sure what car you have You may also want to check for 'crud' in the wur, I soaked it in fuel and put a load of carb cleaner through to makes sure, and it made a difference.
Right, the car seems to be running hot, signs of boiling over arounf the exp tank cap [not through the overflow but around the round cap. also coolant was still hot enough to steam 45 min after turning the car off. Car is also making a faint "knocking" noise, bit like pinking, under moderate accelleration that i don't remember hearing before,
It could be runing very weak, richen it up until you can get it set up properly, better a few quid in petrol than a melted piston.
Is that done with the CO screw? turning clockwise? how much turning will make a difference on fuel mixture?
I thought you'd already played with the CO? Yes, winding the 3mm allen key clockwise will richen the mixture. Only go 1/8 to 1/4 at a time.
Yep, I turned it anti clockwise until it ran smoothly, about 1/2 turn, but wasn't exactly sure of the effect of turning the screw. wasnt sure if it was the only way of increasing fuelling. Anyway, realised the MOT ran out yesterday so it is in today. see what they make of it
