Prof, look at these, I reckon a similiar idea could be made to work with our blocks. Its from a v8. Notice how they cut the skirt thought, I think to mill a flat area inside skirt, and bolt through would be a better idea,(Like Cosworth did above) and keep skirt strong. Ive thought about this idea a few times, its requires no welding, like a 4 bolt conversion would. I could get some caps laser cut, and then finish machine to fit. Its something Id like to put into play sometime soon. The pictures below show its been done, and looks like a good job, bar slitting the skirt, Let me know what you think BG
That s an awesome idea brian But how will you seal those cut on the side of the block Gasket paste? I was thinking off some ladder similar shape then sump gasket With bespoke cap longer and threaded to tight the ladder on the cap So instead of having only the two studs holding the cap on you also have the two extras bolts from the top No cut in the block needed just a strong thick steel plate , five bespoke caps , ten extras bolt , ten longer main studs and nuts Hope I made sense again
I think this is the fixed link: http://freeweb.siol.net/liliko37/mp3/SSP 384 - Audi 1,8l 4V TFSI-Motor mit Kette.pdf
nice one so they did sort the issue off cap movement in the same spirit as brian was talking about those new blocks are completly different the baffle sump remind me of the old oettinger sump
I was only getting that from the original post, and it is nearer 5kg it would seem. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1885963&postcount=1 If I can get clear of all these iron engines I will get that alloy block measured, honest. I have run out of room to strip another engine in the living room!
Ah, I see. The 058 will be less than 4kgs lighter, since post 1 compares tall with the uber light 027 KR flatbacked block. Might even be lighter by a fraction than the 026 DX/EX/EV/PB due to the apertures in it? Will be good to add more, as & when
Hmm, now I need to check the crank in this KR, and I have a 2.0 crank out too. Does I need to get all?
Had few blocks in bits today. Noticed there are a few subtle differences in the castings, and especially around the casting webs supporting the main bearings. The diesel one has far more pronounced webs in the second set of webs down, shown in the pics below. However it does not have the extra meat around the sump flange that the 6A (and ABF not shown) have. The no.1 cylinder diesel rod clears the oil pump area of the block as the diesel big ends use smaller headed bolts when compared to the petrol's studs and nuts arrangement. The head studs are larger in the diesel block at M12, the petrols use M11.5. Oil cooler jets are also mounted in a different way. 6A 2.0 petrol short block 2E 2.0 petrol tall block 1Y 1.9 IDI diesel tall block 6A 2.0 petrol short block 2E 2.0 petrol tall block 1Y 1.9 IDI diesel tall block
I can see the extra bit of metal, intresting at this is the 90BHP motor, with maxing out at 4.5K rpm extra webing to deal with torque at very low revs, could the 1Y block be potental for stronger high reving motor build?
I think they are used for this purpose. Rosten Performance have special M12 ARP head stud kits to allow fitment of various petrol heads onto diesel blocks when building stroker engines. Both 4 and 5 cylinder blocks.
Nice one Dan, I see the sand core layouts are different too, in that theres a parting line running central to bores either side on skirt internally. Can you confirm this, or is that spray grime thrown off the crank?
Just had a look at the diesel block earlier Brian. They are indeed parting lines that run vertically and in line with the big end journals. The extra lump to the rear of the diesel block at the sump flange, in line with main bearing number 2, is utilised when the block is in the T4 vans and is angled forward, the dip stick goes into the block from the rear.