020 - Prototype Quick-Shift - Mk1 Adjust. Added -Update 13/06/2011

I knew you would have something in "stock" that would do the job.

So what car did you cut the gear stick off then? A Saab or an Audi?

 

You did say I'd find something Danny. But I was looking in the Golf and the 90 at that time!

I did say supercar, although I did say on another thread that I would not mention the name again, so it has to be?

Oh. And, it's imperial!

Oh. And it's an uber fast column gear change linkage tube.

 

I have finished the ptototype in-car adjuster mechanism. It has a daved belt-and-braces system. The top nut clamps on the gear lever through a tapered split thread. There is also a clamping socket cap screw in the slot. You use the hex key to adjust both. The final design will use a nice aluminum knurled knob, instead of the nut. It will be anodised any colour you like as long as it is BLACK. I hate tarty bright colours.

Using the original length lever:

Top photo shows adjuster in normal position.

This gives 110mm knob movement with a standard linkage.

And gives 80mm movement with a VWMS linkage.




Bottom photo shows adjuster in raised position.

This gives 70mm knob movement with a standard linkage.

And gives 50mm movement with a VWMS linkage.




S)> You can have a really long extension on the lever if you want!

 

By 'helicopter joints' , do you mean:

Spherical Rod-Ends? (Heim or Rose)

I note USRT use Heim joints in their linkages!

To my mind, there is no need to go the Rod-Ends.

Ball & Socket joints are more than man enough for the job!

Plus, there are advantages to using ball & socket, and disadvantages with rod-ends.

 

UPDATE + Suggestions Please

UPDATE:

All of the bronze bushes, including sphericals are at last on their way to sunny Sligo.

Suggestons Please:

The in-car adjustment systems work fine, but:

When you adjust the side to side travel of the lever, it is a separate adjustment from that used for front to back travel, one looses the reverse gate clearance setting.

To get the correct setting for the reverse gate back, you need to nip under the bonnet and adjust the length of the linkage, to pull the gear lever back over to the left.

So, it looks as though some type of lock out system, would be better for reverse!

What do people think?

Is it worth persuing the in-car adjustments? The design will end up with a lot of gubbings under the gear lever boot!

Would it be better just to provide infinite adjustment, in the linkages under the bonnet?

Would it be better to have a series of different links giving fixed steps in the travel adjustment? Say: 10% & 25% or 15% & 30%, etc. or any combination that you fancy. And just, un-bolt and re-bolt, pairs of links to suit?

ps. If you have not spotted it already. The VWMS system gives a fixed 8% reduction in side to side travel, and a fixed 25% reduction front to back.

 

Got the sphericals, and fitted them.

These are not the ones that I will fit eventually, but they were all I could get hold of quickly. They are Teflon/Bronze in a Mazak housing. They are from the same company who supply the Bronze spericals.

The ones I will fit, if this prototype works OK, have a steel housing, are 100% Bronze, and cost about 1/4 as much!

 

It's been pouring it down today, so I made an #18 linkage to VWMS dimensions.

The reason that the hole, for the ball, is quattrofoil, is cos. there was already a 5mm hole, offset from centre, where the ball fits. Now I can either fit the M8 threaded balls, or a weldable ball, when I can find a supplier!

If I can get hold of #7 and #18, on the VWMS drawing, I'll make a copy of the VWMS link.

 

I decided to make tubular rods to replace the round bar.

The ferrules are brazed on as usual.

The plain end it tapped RH thread. The end with spanner flats is tapped LH thread.





Not only is it lighter, it could be lighter still, but I got tired filing down the ferrules, but it is also twice as stiff as the original bar. Plus, 'Male' Ball & Socket Joints are lighter than 'Female' joints.



It took me ages to get the spanner flats the right size, to accomodate the plastic coating!



I also made some bronze bushes for the link pivot shaft.

 

Very nice Daved, how did you do the plastic coating?

Your other bits should be arriving soon.

 

The plastic coating is a 'Trade Secret'!

Regarding the 'other bits'. Don't be surprised if you don't see them on here! I am not sure that I can weld anymore?[:^(]

ps. Thanks for the other bits. I'd post your name, once again, on the 'Top Seller's' thread, if you'd actually let me pay for them!

 

The Unibal arrived today.

So. It's fitted into the change lever assembly.

I'm getting there!




A bit of triming and welding to be done.

 

The bronze sphericals have arrived. Loverly job!

 

Looking good Dave, I'm gueessing you made the housing for the bearing? Looks very professional, I might be interested in a couple of those to replace my Igus ones, if it will fit a mk2 setup.

 

Thanks.

Not replying to you 'til I know your given name!

 

Its Mike, and I didn't mean any offence. I assume your name is Dave??

 

Don't be silly, you would find it difficult to offend me!

It's just I would rather use a given name than an avatar name.

Dave!

 

Dave, it's Dan here seeing the names are important.

When will you be developing this setup for a mk1? The thread states 020, as the 020 was fitted to the mk1 I presume it will be covered by your splendid products.
If not a quick call to trading standards will be made.

 

Great progress 3/3 !

Regards,
BBB

 

Dan.

Don't tell me Mk1s are different to Mk2s!!!!?

Just for you SSON, I'll have a look at ETKA.