020 - Prototype Quick-Shift - Mk1 Adjust. Added -Update 13/06/2011

They are not only different, they are better!

Seeing as the group A mk2 cars used mk1 style engine and gearbox mounts, Why not use the mk1 gearstick assembly too.

 

Ta so for the picture John.

Dan, SSON. It does look better, around the gear lever end! Just a shame that item #20 is bent to buggery. It must spring about like mad. It needs to be replaced with a daved tubular link!

What mechanism stops reverse gear being accidentally engaged?

DAD

ps SSON. You should have sent a full set of Mk1 bits over, instead of the Mk2 bits!

 

Reverse gear is found by pushing down on the gear lever which lowers the stick / forward link enough to clear a stop on the underside of base piece 46.
Similar to a mk2, but on the underside if you can grasp that.

 

Danny.

I recon. that you are so correct. As far as I can see, from the ETKA drawing, everything at the gear lever end, is far superior engineering!

I really think that it would be interesting to try to link up the gear lever end of a Mk1 to the steering rack mounted bracket, and the rest of the gearbox end of a Mk2!

I wonder if Brian's got any Mk1 bits? He is, after all, my nearest CGTI neighbour!

 

I have loads of the mk1 and Scirocco gear stick assemblies. I think they would marry up quite well with the mk2 front end actually as they use a similar pinch bolt at the front end of the rod.
Will have a quick scan over them tomorrow.
The mk1 gear lever arrangement does have a large plastic ball assembly for the pivot, but I reckon it could easily be replaced with a spherical bearing. You would just need a good spring arrangement for the reverse lock out.

 

Sounds good.

I was assuming a large plastic ball, for the pivot. I recon. a Unibal may be better, as in my Mk2 design, post #52?

Can I please at least pay postage this time?

 

Mike.

I wished to reply properly to you, as you have been so supportive, and have also added grand feedback.

Regarding fitment of spherical bushes to the shaft:

As you state. All of the paint needs to be removed from the shaft to get back to bare clean metal. At the same time, any damage to the shaft surface, which has raised a splinter, needs to be filed down. The shaft then needs a good overall polish with emery so it is nice and smooth.

I feel that is is counter-intuitive to open out the bushes, so that they will slide over the splines, and around the bends. The reason for this is that the shaft is a fixed part, and the bushes may be replaced. Thus, using bushes with off-the-shelf tolerances means you will invariably get the same fit. The only way I would consider opening out the bushes would be if I had a special oversized reamer to accurately control the bore tolerance.

Plus. Opening up a bronze bush, to slide around the tight bend near to the gear lever, gives a heck of a lot of clearance. I tried it with the early teflon bronze bushes. Much too sloppy. Plastic bushes, on the other hand, are probably flexible enough to slide over the bend with less overall clearance?

The tight bend at the lever end imposes two particular problems:

Firstly: The tube is bent, so the longer the bush, the harder it is for it to negotiate the bend. But, because the tube has not been mandrel bent, there is actually a slight reduction in diameter HORIZONTALLY across the bend. This reduction in diameter helps a lot!

Secondly: Because no mandrel was used, there is an increase in diameter VERTICALLY through the bend. This is quite large. A few tenths of a millimeter. Certainly more than a sensible clearance in any standard hole/shaft senario for a nice, reasonably close, sliding fit.

So: My solution is.

File down the VERTICAL bumps, top and bottom, at the two bends, so that the height is the same as the shaft diameter. 16mm nominal

Chamfer the leading and trailing edges of the bush to be fitted close to the lever leaving a 7mm land in the centre untouched.

Ensure that the splines are not more than 16mm at any point. Problem is: The splined part of the shaft is Hardened. So I used a 'Reaper File' to smooth the edges of the splines and bring them down to 16mm nom.

Ok. So we now have a bronzed bushed shaft that is going to rust uber quick. So, we coat the shaft where the bushes don't rub. I shall use plastic.

Now we have a situation where the bushes are not protected. So we need rubber gaiters. I have not yet found any, other than the last four Mk1 rubber gaiters identical to those used by VWMS.

Dave.

 

Dave,
Sounds like my car would be a perfect fit

 

What? With the heavy hole in the roof?

 

Ok, so almost a perfect fit. I could always cut the roof off and replace with a carbon one

 

Cheers Dave,

you're absolutely right about the bushes, mine were awkward to get around the bends but being plastic they had a bit of give. Had they been bronze or similar I wouldn't have opened them out but being plastic it was quite easy. I'd already taken the rod back a bit but it was difficult was worried that it might end up oval. So opening out the bush was the lesser of two evils.

Good thinking with the gaiters, I hadn't thought of that. My bare shaft has been unpainted for best part of a year now (hehe ) the bit of grease on there has kept the tin worm at bay. If you're going to do a few to sell, maybe you could look at getting them dipped to remove the paint and then coated, maybe zinc passivate or similar, I dont really know if that would be suitable or economical.

cheers
mike

 

Going back a bit, Rubjonny asked and Cerips posted a german ebay link (on page 1) for linkage to change from cable to rod - obviously owning a mk3 16v gti with very vague 02a cable change box I would love the opportunity to swap it for rod if possible.. does anyone know where this can be got in England or is it a german only development (not bought from ebay.de before) And is it possible for the mk3 02a cable change box? I cant believe it hasnt been discussed more on cgti if it is a real possibility - I HATE cable change

 

I'm not sure going cable to rod is the best bet, there's not necessarily anything wrong with a cable change, my celica has an awesome change and thats cable, I'm sure people have got theres working well with a few mods to the shifter tower etc. maybe a mk4 / tt shifter would help.

 

I've already got aluminium bushes for the shifter bracket and a custom Hotgolf short shift kit for the shifter tower itself, so it all seems pretty tight there, but inside its so vague, I can move the lever side to side a good centimetre if I wiggle it, and nearly the same backwards and forwards, before I even try to select a gear. When I do go to change, I have to be so gentle with it, and not push, almost let it suck the gear in, otherwise it feels like it jams against something or will crunch.

I've checked almost everything you can check, as well as following a detailed guide on readjusting the throw of the gear lever, making sure its central etc etc. Ive just resigned myself now to it being a really poor cable change design - plus I'm a little spoiled because I previously had a mk2 with rod change, and after an overhaul, it was simply amazing, lightning quick gear changes, smooth as silk and a really positive feel

 

sounds like you've tried everything then, personally I haven't tried the cable change but I've never been impressed with the rod change either, Even after doing all the bushes it was still very average. Much better now with the solid bushes etc. but no where near as good as the other car.

 

Listen up folks:

The rod change, on the 020, is always going to be quite poor. Just look at it. Long thin shaft. Lots of plastic. Lots of linkages.

The cable change could be better. With the right cables and pivots.

People used to make fun of my Saab 96s for having a column change.

These were people who had only driven: Ford, Vauxhall, BMC, Merc, BMW, et al. With column changes which had so many joints in them that they were like stirring blancmange.

The Saab change was uber fast and solid.

Why? Cos.. It was a single, very stiff, rod, that went straight into the gearbox, through just one universal joint.

When Saab built the 99, with a floor change, to placate the plebs, they used exactly the same system, and just mounted it on to a tunnel.

ps. They had to put a tunnel in the car to mount the gear change.

 

cable to 020 conversion
http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=93043

 

liking the drawings daved, don't see proper drawings often.

Does the whole arrangement sit on top of the tunnel? If so is there likely to be any issue of the rod hitting the gear lever when going for fourth? I had this on my setup, could get it all to work well with the bottom ball joint mounted higher, ending up going back to a standard lower joint as its nice and low. I found the bit of vertical compliance in the standard ball/socket helps the mechanism move freely as well, as I replaced joints with more solid versions the system tends to stick in places as there's no compliance.

I'm sure you'll get these things sorted out though, I have faith! look forward to seeing more

 

Proper drawings he says!

If you knew the history of me and my drawings, you would not say that.

'Jig and Tool', at Laycocks, kicked me out of their Drawing Office, after just a couple of drawings, cos. they were so uber messy.

The only reason that the sketches below are semi-legible is cos. I came across Miss Daved's 'Art Box'. It contains not only loads of Rotring Pens, etc., but also a top of the range Badger Air Brush.

I never used drawing pens before, and wanted to try them out. They went in the ultra-sonic tank for an hour, were stripped and clean thoroughly, and filled.

So. I inked in the sketches cos. there were so many dirty pencil marks I could not tell which line was which.

No, both levers sit in their normal place.

There are four 'different' possible design elements in there.

1 - Top left is a design to replace the upper plastic ball with a steel spherical and bronze bush. This keeps the exsisting reverse catch if required.

2 - The upper right part shows a reverse catch to replace the push down system.

3 - In the centre, underneath the 20 of 2011, is the throw adjuster, featured somewhere below, turned upside down. Only usable with reverse catch 2.

4 - The bottom spherical is a replacement for the lower plastic ball. It does away with the push down reverse catch, so needs element 2 to work.

ps. I fancy trying to buy a small compressor for the Air Brush! I am going to look on ebay.

 

lol, by proper I mean hand drawn, I'm a child of the 3D CAD generation I'm afraid but I love to see hand drawn engineering drawings. learnt to draw at uni but never actually used it, CAD ever since!

Can't quite make out how the reverse latch works but I'm sure it will become apparent. good work