110degree coolant with slim fan -update- Guage still not showing over 80deg

Great, thanks. I've got new stainless bolts now and should get the seals tomorow morning.

 

I used original VW seals but as my housing was non VW I used liquid gasket just to make sure it was ok as I wasn't 100% sure my non-vw housing would seal too well looking by the way some of the housing came together

So i take it your crack pipe surived?!?! The cooling nipple that goes to the oil cooler broke up on mine and the end of the pipe crumbled. Sounds like you've been lucky!

 

Yep, I was thinking i'd need a full housing while I was drilling the bolts out but it worked out rather nicely.

If the fans/coolant all work as they should i'm going to go back to Chip Wizards for another run on the rollers.

 

Finally got the housing bolted back on.

How much coolant do I need to put in there and what type should I be using? I'll be passing GSF and ECP on my travells today so any advice will be appreciated.

 

I got my coolant from GSF... I think I bought 2 bottle of coolant that was to be mixed with water to the correct concentration.

I believe the total capacity of the cooling system is approx 9 litres

 

All done now, there is a drip from one hose otherwise all fine. Water temp rises quicker and the twin fans kick in.

Last question, does the fan wiring need a fuse? What amp? At the moment its direct to the battery.

 

I dontnhave that wire anymore. I'll put a 30amp inline fuse onto it. Cheers!!!

Repaint soon!!!

 

GGGGGGRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!! OK last night, 50 mile round trip t0 CGTI Manchester.

Didn't stop in any traffic, coolant on the clocks didn't show over 75 the whole time. Oil temp was 102 max.

Whats the next step? Vag Com to compare the guage with the actual temp?

Car also smells of fuel, ticks over at 500rpm and rev drop to 250rpm for a second when I stop. It cut out once last night when I pulled upto some lights and started again very easily.

 

Correct me if i'm wrong, blue temp sensor is for the ECU and yellow is for the cluster to be blunt?

I ended up getting a new blue from VW and 2nd hand working yellow sensor when I got fed up of it running rich.

Oil temp at 102?! Was that literally giving it some proper beans? At this cold'er weather lately even giving it stick i only get to 98*C at the moment.

 

Yep 4 pin for yellow dash sensor. Is the needle actually moving then on the dash?

If not check the wiring as I found mine had perished away and had to re-check it to get it all back to normal.

I assume you replaced the thermostat also? As mine when it was stuck open was over cooling and constantly running rich! What brand did you get, as I had two rated the same but when I put them in a pan of boiling water they opened up at different temps despite their ratings? Shame at the time I didn't record the actual temp they opened.

 

I used a genuine one, wagner??? I know the wires are all good. I unwrapped the loom a while back and checked every inch of each one.

The needle does move but doesnt pass 80 unless I hit traffic and when it gets hotter the new fans come on and work as treat.

I'm trying to get a copy of vag com to work on my vista laptop so I can test it.

 

So the needle rises to getting hot, at which point the fan's will also kick in? So shows both the fan sensor and dash sensor detect the rise in the temp to a point where it needs cooling.

The blue sensor, ECU, I thought won't impact the physical cooling much as naturally its controlled by the stat.

Just a rare possibility that the stat is maybe faulty and opening at a lower temp than its rating?

http://the-corrado.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68720

 

Cant find my ****ing cable now

Just started it on the drive and let it idle. Water went to 85ish and oil to 90, fan was on everthing seemed fine.

 

fan on my mk2 vr6 comes on at 90 water temp.
if water temp gets to just past 100 fan comes on speed 2
on the move, weather at speed or town driving, temps both always sit smack on 90 ish,
only ever creeps up in heavy traffic.

done exactly the same when the vr6 was in the mk3 shell, and the mk3 8v daily does exactly the same aswell!

edit: mk2 vr6 running mk3 rad and twin fan setup wired in exacty how the vr should be with the mk3 loom! so pretty certain it all works as it should!

 

vag com usually shows temps a couple of degrees higher than the clocks, but only like 3 or 4degrees so mk3 clocks seem pretty accurate.

used to run mk2 clocks when first converted ( changed to mk3 as couldnt get rev counter to work) and it always showed the same temps on them aswell.
mates mk3 vr behaves exactly the same too.

also worth noteing that the vr stat is an 80 degrees not a 86 like 8v's etc. guessing this is because the vr is a big hot engine so helps it keep a little cooler.