Any advice on the following much appreciated! Well, today I think the reason for my 16v cold starting/misfiring problems and it randomly loosing a bit of coolant every so often became apparent. I was visiting a mate near London (250 miles from home) when I noticed a patch of oil on his path, had a look under the car and it's coated with oil all over the front subframe etc. It appears that oil is leaking from the top right rear corner of the block where the head gasket is, as the car is also loosing coolant I assume the gasket has gone. Is this likely to be the cause? The car still drives fine and doesn't seem to overheat although it did use about a litre of oil in 500 miles whereas it normal wouldn't use that much in 6 months/6000 miles! I have got the car home and put it in the garage to consider my options. As it's done 137k miles on the original engine (and HG to my knowledge) these are my ideas: 1. Replace head gasket, hope there is nothing else wrong, cracks in the head/block or whatever 2. Source a replacement lower mileage engine and replace whole thing. I have been toying with the idea of going 2 litre anyway, maybe this is a sign? The gearbox could also do with an overhaul replacement while I'm at it? Any thoughts? Could it be something other than the HG? The coolant seems to have some oil in it but the engine oil doesn't seem contaminated with water so I don't think it's the oil cooler thats knackered? What are the likely costs to just get head skimmed and gasket replaced and what else is likely to need renewing? Personally I like the 2 litre route but as I need the car for work it's urgent that I get it sorted quickly! Help! Edited by: Stu
Yep - was going to try a compression test, would that determine if it was definitely the HG that's failed? Don't know if the compression tester my Dad has will go in the recessed 16v plug holes though?
Sounds very much like the head gasket. 137k isn`t too bad assuming all is OK with everything and what your shopping list should comprise of is Gasket Stretch bolts Timing Belt and tensioner(if it hasn`t been done recently) Camcover gasket Exhaust gaskets Inlet manifold gasket New nuts and studs for exhaust manifold side of head coolant and oil and filter. Most definetly get head resurfaced as it would be stupid not to after removing it.Approx. cost 30-40.Possibly get the valve stem oil seals changed and generally check the condition of the head.
Cheers Dave - good advice. The bugger is that I just changed the oil, filter, plugs, timing belt and tensioner about 2 weeks ago when servicing the car! Resurfacing the head, is that the same as getting it 'skimmed'? Would a local garage/machine shop be able to do this? How difficult is it to change the head gasket myself, is it fairly easy following Haynes type instructions?
use an extension on the guage for recessed plugs, available from SP. Compression test(wet n dry) will hint to you whats going on. Back it up the a head gasketleak test too, from a local garage if theres uncertaintity. Same garage can arrange to get the head skimmed too. Sure you can tackle the job yourself. Just foloow the manual to the letter. Edited by: Seraph
You don`t have to change the oil,timing belt and tensioner then if you have just done it and only have to top up coolant if you want. A decent machine shop will do the head no problem(resurfacing is the same as skimming) I usually get them done at my shop but 16v head requires head or the machine to be held at angle to enable resurface so I got someone else to do my one. Haynes and Bentley manuals should give you all the info you need and the only tools which are apart from the norm are the spline bits to remove head bolts which are only a few quid. Did this a few year ago and it was a piece of p1ss to do as long as you don`t cut any corners whilst doing so.
Ok - cool, things are starting to look a little more positive. Lets hope nothing else is knackered! Are all the parts available from GSF?
Get genuine gaskets & stretch bolts. 16v one is about 30. (My VR6 one just cost 40 trade - robbing cnuts)
Ok - cheers, will no doubt be asking more questions as the week progresses and my lovely car ends up in bits all over my garage floor...!
Funny that everyone is saying the head gasket isn't that hard to fix, I thought you'd all be telling me it's a sign from above and time to find a 9a...
Did mine in a morning, you don`t even have to take the cams out! Make sure you time it up first and understand the marks before you pull it apart. You should do the belt and tensioner at the same time (maybe chain but that`s cams out job), if you keep the old belt on you can mark the belt and pulleys to make it easier. If it`s getting skimmed then you`ll have the cams out anyway so fit a vag timing chain (10)
Thanks for the info. When you say 'if it's getting skimmed' does that mean you didn't skim your head? Is it likely to be okay if I just clean it up and put it back together or is it definitely worth getting it skimmed while it's apart? Also - does the VAG gasket kit contain valve stem oil seals as I should probably change those too while I'm at it?
VAG kit wont have stem seals. should probably get it skimmed just for peace of mind, no point in having to do it twice, or even the worry of having to do it again for the sake of 30. Where are you? Someone on here may know where you can get it skimmed for cheaper?
Are you sure its deffo headgasket before you tear it all apart? sure oil is not leaking from rocker gasket or other areas? Mine uses water,found a very small leak on oil cooler water pipes.
I`d take the head off and check it with feeler guages and a straight edge before you skim it, also have a good look for pitting etc. As Flusted said though it may not be that, can you clean it all up and run it to find the leak?
