I managed to fill all 4 of my bores full of water from the head when i did mine Dried it all up with super absorbent cloths (thanks JML!) and rubbed the bores over with oil to protect them.
Those are american worms by the look of them - give a totally different result. You opened the wrong can, I'm afraid.
BTW I always clean off the pistons - at tdc, bit of grease round the edges, clean them up then hoover the dust, wipe off the grease, drop the piston and wipe the grease/dust from the bores. May make no difference, but if I'm doing it properly then I want things to be as close as they can be to a new engine. If I'm not doing it properly then I reuse an old gasket, and old bolts..... Never had problems either way, yet......
Err - he doesn't realise the difference. American worms lose less power beacause they are tested in a different set of worm rollers. And it's dead cold in America so they make more power. And their tyres are made from stone and stuff so the losses there don't matter. They don't have tranmissions, just a single wheel mounted on the end of the crank drives the car.
Can of worms! Here's a couple of pics of last nights antics in the garage. As predicted I followed Tubs style and filled two cylinders will oily coolant water cr@p! I have dried them out now but would it be wise to add a bit of engine oil in those two before reassembly, or grease as per TSC's advice? I make it look like a pro job eh...? Edited by: Stu
By the way, I managed to get that last b@stard stud off in the end. My brother in law called round and lent me a fantastic spanner set. They are like ring spanners but with a ratchet built in and a hinged part so they fit in awkward places. I must get some. That got it off no problem and was much quicker than the hacksaw, chisel, hammer etc I was thinking of trying!
Stu - carefully dry the cylinders out with absorbent cloth - make sure no bits get in the bores. Put bits of tissue paper into the holes in the block that the head bolts go into, make sure they are dry. When you are happy the bores are clear of water smear a layer of oil all over the bores. TSC's grease advice is for if you clean the piston crowns.
Ok - cheers for the advice Tub. Will hopefully make some good progress with this today assuming the new bits show up. I haven't cleaned the piston crowns, would they need greasing because of all the water that was in the middle two though?
You don`t have to grease anything or for that matter clean the piston crowns other than to make them look clean.It won`t make any difference plus you will give yourself unecessary work. Just clean as much of the water off and wipe some oil on a rag will keep bores from rusting but I assume the head will be back on soon anyway so it would only be superficial rust anyway.
Ok cheers I've hit what may be a bit of a problem, was cleaning the head up ready to put it back on and found that one of the oil ways in the front of the block seems to have a funny shaped/damaged brass insert. See pics - is this supposed to look like this? The jagged cut out in the brass bit seems to line up with a slot in the oil way so it might be okay? Can anyone confirm, I'm waiting to put it back together but don't want to if it's not right!
Isn`t that just the oilway and that is drilled into channel.It is supposed to be like that.It isn`t brass but discouloration from th oil which has been going through it for years. Don`t remeber what head is like from memory but I don`t think you have anything to worry about.
No problem.BTW have you had head checked for flatness ? Maximum waarpage is 4 thousands of an inch which is less than the thickness of a hair. IMO blown gasket=get it skimmed. You may well regret it soon if you didn`t.
