Ok thanks for that.. Just waiting for the loom to come so will crack on with it then. Really appreciate you answering all my questions .Thanks H
Hi. Received the clock loom today .. I have swapped over the indicator plug and corresponding wires (black/white and green/black indicator wires), but the caddy plug has a purple/white wire? Can you tell me what this is, and do I need it. I have looked through all my paperwork and diagrams and can't find a purple/white wire. Thanks H
the purple/white wire is the MPG signal from the ecu to the clocks, you should have a purple/white wire on the mk3 2e loom somewhere. only need to worry if you want the MFA working on the mk3 clocks though
Hi . tried the new loom but it just sent all my instruments crazy (long story) ... So I have Taken a wire out of the new loom to do your suggestion above, but found there is already a pin/wire in pin 2 on the clock plug. Just bamboozling myself with this lol can you advise me as to what I can do next . Thanks H
U1 pin 4 is ignition live to clock pin 13, can you double check you're reading the clock plug pin numbers correctly?
had a dig in the caddy basic equipment diagram, I found it has a green/yellow wire with a single pin plug on it from pin 2 for the seatbelt warning system. Think I can see it in the 2nd picture on the 1st page, with a blue plug? chase it to see where it goes, if pin 2 on clocks earth it or depin and pop into U2/5 and coolant light should shut up
Hi.. Ok yes, I traced the green/yellow wire and it does go to pin 2 on the clock plug. I will put it into U2 5 In the morning. Thanks H
Right.. after a few hitches.. ie van suddenly wouldn't start on the key, found I needed a new ignition switch ..reverse light was not working, So fitted a new gearbox reverse switch. But all good now thanks mostly to you for all your help.... Really appreciate all your help and patience, you are a star. Thanks H
Hi ...Again Just wondered if you could help me with a lumpy running issue?. All seemed to be ok but took it for its first long run last night and ran fine on the motorway 60-70 mph and all ok,continued onto an A road ,did 10 to 15 miles on there..then it suddenly started to run lumpy and loss of power ..(did not cut out) ..no matter how much I pushed the pedal down? Pulled in to have a look at the engine and let it rest for 5 mins and then turned back for home. Apart from 1 small misfire it ran fine all the way home. Googled it and said clean the MAF which I have done, but it still looks pretty cruddy. if this is the problem can I upgrade to a newer type of MAF? Thanks H
first check your fault codes see if anythign is logged, clear them out and see if anythign comes back. fact it was fine after switchign off for a bit suggests its probably not the MAF, but if it happens again you can check the MAF grams per second measuring block in vagcom that'll tell you right away if its not reading correctly. can go thru them all see how they all look, throttle position, ecu votlage, coolant and inlet temps etc all worth lookign at. make sure the throttle is spotless too, and you can only use the right maf for the ecu generally. sometimes you have the same sensor in other maf housing but I don't know of any resource that lists them all
Hi. Cleaned the throttle body which was really dirty, and found some improvement with the throttle response. Van is still cutting out though. The best way to describe it is as though I have turned the key off and back on immediately. It never fully dies just lasts a second then runs ok. On a ten mile journey it did it 3 times yesterday and it seems to be getting harder to start. Still waiting for a new scanner to arrive.. my old one was not compatible. Thanks H
does it look like the ignition cuts at the same time, i.e. do clocks flicker off and on at same time or is it just the engine itself? if clocks go off I'd start with ignition switch, if not I'd look at crank sensor. to scan ecu all you need is a laptop and a cheap usb cable off ebay then you can use the free vcds-lite software. it will do the codes and measuring blocks which is all you need mostly. for more advanced stuff you need to buy a licence, or you could have a look around for guys local with the full equipment who can perform those functions for you
Hi thanks for that. My engine is the 2E so as you probably know it wont have a crank sensor. I am taking it out tomorrow and will check to see if anything happens with the clocks and I will check around the ignition switch as I fitted a new one . BTW Someone has suggested it could be a Hall sensor fault? getting a bit bamboozled with it now lol. Thanks again for your help.
ah yeah sorry, replace 'crank sensor' with 'cam sensor', which is a hall sensor in the distributor does the rev counter ever go funny?
Hi. Did a scan today And brought these 3 codes up .... 00525 -003 03/0 KWP1281 Oxygen sensor (G39) static no signal ................ 00552 --162 02/03 KWP1281 Potentiometer for air flow meter (G19) sporadic-no fault type identified. ................... 0523 -162 01/03 KWP1281 Intake air temp sensor (G42) sporadic no fault type identified. ......................... The oxygen sensor and Potentiometer are both brand new and were fitted when I did the engine swop. Dont know if I should have erased the fault codes so left them? Any pointers to the problems above would be helpful. Thanks again H