9a how much power???

Discussion in 'Engines' started by sambo, Mar 13, 2004.

  1. Joe_G Forum Member

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    Would be interesting to see your results! Make sure you run it in first tho!

    Joe
     
  2. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Will have few weeks to run it in before castle combe track trash!
     
  3. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    I wonder whether they'll notice my car running slicks @ Combe... ;)
     
  4. Tubthumped Forum Junkie

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    I'd say it doesn't mater what power it is, as with a Sachs sports clutch it will not be delivering that power for very long! [xx(]
     
  5. jaistanley Forum Member

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    Wearing an engine in...(as far as I know)

    There are several trains of thought on this matter.

    The bits of an engine that get the most wear are:

    Oil pump.
    Big ends and Mains.
    Piston rings/bores.
    Cam lobes (accelerating side).

    The big ends and mains need a relatively easy run in. By this I mean few transients (fast, sudden stop starts) and their biggest killer is swarf in oil and low oil pressure. The bearings in them require good oil pressure and a good oil wedge (which depends on rotational speed and oil viscosity). This means a smoothe drive at around 3K with no crappy harsh gear changes and definately NO riding the clutch (thrust bearings die). Use cheap non synthetic running in oil and change it after 100 (one hundred) careful miles.

    The Piston rings have a relatively short time to bed in. The honing proccess makes the cylinder bores rough which is what sharpens the rings up and gives good compression and in turn torque, power and life. Piston rings should be sharpened by selecting a slightly higher gear than u usually would use at about 4k revs and planting throttle then backing off, using engine braking. This makes the rings expand as much as possible, wearing evenly around bore and sharpening as much as possible. Do this after the first oil change. After about 50-100 miles of this, change the oil again.

    The oil pump is easy. Change your oil at half the manufacturers reccomended. They make it longer to a. make the residuals of buying their cars look better, b. make your engine die at about 100,000 miles.

    The cams wear least at about 2k rpm. When replacing cams and tapets hold the engine at about that for about 20 mins after first gently letting the engine warm.

    If I were to have loads of time I'd first re-build the piston rings. Rag the hell out of the engine to REALLY sharpen them, the re-build bottom end, replacing oil pump at the same time. Wear this in nice and carefully. Then re-build head doing as above.

    This is all based on both stuff I've read, a bit of experience and my vehicle powetrain module at uni.

    Some people disregard all of this and just go really easy. Cant see it hurting too much but after reading a bit of stuff, especially some of the cosworth stuff, I'd go with the three stage approach.

    Plus CHANGE THE OIL LOADS.

    Good luck, hope this helps.

    Jai
     
  6. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    fao. tubs. whats up with sachs sporting clutch m8? all i'v heard bout them is good, maybe u know somethjng i want like to hear but please gis a more info!
     
  7. KeithMac Forum Junkie

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    Think he killed it in a few thousand miles?
     
  8. Tubthumped Forum Junkie

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    24 days and it ripped itself to bits... [:^(]
     
  9. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    bugger!!!
     
  10. md20vt Forum Member

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    i have a 6a engine i've left the crank
    alone but put in a baffled sump instead. the spec :
    1.8 16v gas flowed cylinder head Schrick 260 camshafts,
    lightened flywheel, polished g6016v inlet manifold,
    Custom 16v fuel rail
    blue powder coated bottom end
    Baffled sump with splash guard
    16v gearbox 020, Sachs power clutch
    Samco hoses in blue, powder coated rocker cover Audi throttle body (ported),
    20v turbo injectors, Bosch, Modified ECU
    fully mapable , late Cabrio drive shafts, 100mm flange (16v SPEC)
    Direct feed cold air supply through CDA air filter
    Allard alloy expansion tank 16V radiator g60 fan
    Supersprint 4-2-1 exhaust manifold with a 2.25 inch diameter
    custom made stainless steel exhaust system from Powerflow.
     
  11. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    What power have you got md20vt?

    And where are such beasts when we hold a 16v shoot out?? ;)
     
  12. greg s Forum Member

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    What are the internal differences between the 9A and the ABF? I'd have thought most of the things that have been mentioned about power on here are relevant to the ABF too?
     
  13. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    ABF has longer stroke Greg

    Barny runs an ABF (on k-jet) with ported head and 276s and gives very similar power to Speedo's ex BRM 2litre KR motor.
     
  14. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    abf got longer stroke i fink
     
  15. greg s Forum Member

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    Is there any difference with the oil/cooling system? Presumably they improved on the 9A when they built the ABF?
     
  16. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    I'm having an extra oil cooler plumbed in so dont haftu worry about that! about water not sure fink it should be ok in either case.
     
  17. Joe_G Forum Member

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    ABF and 9A both have the same stroke (92.8mm), It's just the ABF uses longer rods.

    Joe
     
  18. md20vt Forum Member

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    16v shoot out ?? i aint got the power output yet but she runs real good on a vauxhal 16v chip, I hope to get her chipped v soon I wanna see over 200 hp. I want to run it for the summer sell the lump an turbo it as a winter project
     
  19. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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  20. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    oops [:$]
     

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