early-late 02j had ball joints, late-late 02j pin and clip. both fine, and can convert either way by changing the cable ends, the shift weight and L shaped lever on the tower to match. can mix and match even
if you get an audi TT shifter they are already tapped to take a mk2 gearknob, plus offset further forward which seems to end up perfect when combined with the bpolo selector housing. it isnt a 100% straight fit, you need to open out the brackets under the car till it fits in then do the same method as when fitting 02A shifter. (its direct fit to any car early with 02a, such as G60, corrado, B3 passat. for the mk3 only early cars are straight fit later models you have to drill and tap a hole at the front for the 3rd mounting point. not that it matters to you Been meaning to put together a thread on it for years but here you go:
yep the 02m gearstick assembly is the same as 02j just the cables differ and the tower on the box obv
So I finally decided to troubleshoot my throttle issue. Recently while driving my throttle pedal would just “die” leaving my car idling while driving. This would result in me having to pull off somewhere safe so that I can unplug the throttle and reseat the plug for the throttle pedal to work again. I bought a replacement pedal to try but just my luck, the only mk4 at my local scrap yard was a tdi but I took the throttle pedal to try. I got I all swapped over and nothing, the car idled but got no input from the throttle pedal. The first picture is the pedal from the vr6 the motor came out of. The second is from the tdi while I was messing around with the fuse box I found a few wires and connectors I don’t know where they go or what there for, so any help would be greatly appreciated
Not sure on the wires, but I'm pretty sure the tdi pedal is different, sure rj will confirm it. Actually the blue plug looks like clutch switch, mainly used for cruise control so it cuts it if change gear to stop over revving, and it stops rev hang when changing gear I think that may be the one you need to link the two wires together, I don't have a spare switch here as its in the polo glove box which is on loan at moment, otherwise I could meter it out, think it's in the oem management thread along with the mk4 style brake switch wiring that also can affect stuff, but again cruise control mainly. You got a diagnostic port there, are you getting any codes? 2nd edit, mk1 tt and other mk4 platform petrol stuff pedal is what you need, did have a spare but can't find it, must have gone with my mk2
For Shouty (TNJ V6), I use a petrol 1.8T, V5 or V6 4mo pedal. You cannot use a TDI pedal for a ME7 ECU. From my own 24v MK2, make sure the connections for the pedal does not take in mositure and the ECU connection for the vehicle side has a lot of WD40 on it to stop moisture getting into the connector and cause a lost of acceleratation torque request.
as above, and the 2 pin plug is for the clutch switch. spare wire ask the loom builder see if he knows anything about it
Thanks for the advice everyone. I guess I'll be on the hunt for another throttle pedal, my local scrap yard has a few TT's that should have one.
any mk4 with petrol dbw engine will do pretty much plus equivalent audi/seat/skoda etc. diesel ones wont work though
So I finally took some time to track down and fix the small oil leak from the oil pressure switch. I only replaced the leaking one but I’m not sure I used the right one. My oil pressure light on the dash is still flashing, what part should I be using?
if its flashing ignition on and while idling, thats the low pressure switch. it will only flash when the wire is earthed, so disconnect each switch one at a time till it stops then you have found your low pressure switch wire. this one needs to go to a 0.25 or 0.3bar switch, blue or brown. the other wire is the high switch and on a VR6 it should be a black 1.4bar rather than the white 1.8bar. presumably the r32 would need the same, but if its able to put out over 1.8bar when revved to around 2k you're fine with the old 8v 1.8bar switch tbh (will flash light+buzzer at revs otherwise)
So this weekend I finally pulled my finger out and swapped my O2A shifter assembly for the O2J shifter assembly, unfortunately I was on a time crunch and didn't get a chance to take any pictures. I wish I would have done it sooner, the shifting is so much better. The throw between gears is shorter and there is a lot less movement when the gear stick is in gear compared to the O2A gear shift. I also had a chance to modify my fab 53 seat bases again so that the mk5 seat would sit level and lower in the front. I'm sure for anyone over 5'5" the seat bases work perfectly but for short people like me they need to be modified to sit farther forward in the car to get better seat adjustment.
Was impressed with the 53fab bases, mk1 tt seats on my mk2, how much wider are your mk5? I bought a set but think were the golf plus ones and seemed rather chunky. Do you have height adjuster lever on seat? Only thing I found was the adjustment on the seat slider was all one way, backwards, which I can imagine isn't great if you're not able to get stuff off the top shelf in tesco. Next you'll be on the look out for a mk1 tt 5 speed 2wd and get the quick change lever off it for the gearbox.
Recently I’ve noticed some hesitation while accelating so today I finally plugged in my Carley scanner to see what codes I’d get. Well I got for can could use some help with them. The first one is: P0118, engine coolant temp sensor too high P1527, intake camshaft control circuit bank 1 (N205) short to ground P1049, bank 1 camshaft adjustment valve 1 (exhaust)(n318) short to ground P1517, power supply relay for ECU (j271 or j363) electrical malfunction I’m a little clueless about this kind of stuff so I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction please.
first step is clear them and take it for a test run, trying to repeat conditions you noticed before. then re-scan and see what comes back. first one you can check coolant temp reading using the ECU measuring blocks in VAGCOM, it shows all sensor inputs in real time. with aftermarket tools this may not be possible? 2 and 3 check for obvious issues with the wiring, check they both see 12v on the power pin while engine is running. Last one could be down to how you made the loom, its flagged if the ecu cant see the ecu relay on the earth trigger pin. originally the ecu earths the relay to power it up, if you wired in a normal switched relay and didnt use the ecu trigger wire that would explain this code. easy to get rid of it if so, remove the earth to your switched relay and run it to the ecu pin instead
I will have to clear the codes and take it for a drive and see what comes back. I was planning on taking the loom this spring/summer to just go through it and fix other issues but I feel like I might have to do it sooner than later now. Maybe after my holiday at the end of the month.
So I finally have time to sort this. I found the blue/white wire and it goes into the ecu from the dash. But coming from the ecu to the engine the wires connected to the blue temp sensor are purple and brown/white. On my 4 pin coolant temp sensor plug I have brown, yellow/red, brown/green and brown/white. Any ideas?
ok chances are the yellow/red and brown are for dash temp, Ideally probe it from the yellow/red to D/29 on fusebox to confirm dash temp. if that matches up then you need to wire those to pins 2 and 3 on the yellow sensor. brown/green and brown/white I'm not 100% sure, if they were for FCM on a VR6 they would be brown/red and brown, if your wiring loom was based from a digifant the brown/white and brown/green would match to the old ecu temp wires but if so those should have been stripped out along with the rest of the old ecu wiring. you can tape them up and ignore though if you dont have the FCM and the yellow/red turns out to be dash temp anyway. if you do have the MK3 VR6 FCM then the original vr6 yellow sensor brown/red would go to FCM, which pin depends on what part number on the FCM
