the small grey wire right in the middle of the picture, that plugged into the small box on top of the fuse box. whats this for? these two coming out of the abf loom, do we need them? what are they for? whats this? do i need it? it has 4 loose wires coming off it and we can remember what we cut them off!!!! im probably going to come across a 1000 more problems before this is done but just these for now.
i also have a loose blue and red wire coming off the plug to the expansion tank, where do i need to replace this to?
The grey wire going into the jumper block I'm guessing is the VAGCOM jumper block. So the Grey/white wire from the VAGCOM plugs into this too. Not sure about the rest sorry, RJ will prob be able to help. Probably not need though TBH.
blue/white is speed signal from the clocks for the ecu, as i say mine has nevber been wired so i think you can leave it. the yellow/black is an ignition live, its probably from the mk3 fan controller. i bin all of that and use the stock mk2 fan wirign in the lighting loom. last pic is the mk3 jumper blocks for accessory feeds. if you have a lot of options these are handy to use, but otherwise you can leave them
thanks for the repiles chaps, im going to get on this this evening and see what progress I can make, I was really worried about the jumper blocks but now I cant wait to bin them! don't worry tho ill probably be back in a bit with more problems!
Finally been driving it today :-) couldn't get 2nd gear, then realised the new bracket for the cable clutch conversion was hitting the selector mech... Cut the corner off now all good. Couple of questions - the fuel pump runs all the time with the ignition on. Pretty sure it should just prime? & my wipers don't work lol. I'm sure its just missing its GND or supply. Will check tomorrow! Is the ABF ECU ODB1 or ODB2? I have a ODB2 USB reader & the shareware version of vag-com. Will this work?
make sure you have 67, 80 or 167 fuel pump relay in slot 2, and see if the pump stops when relay is removed. if so, check d/13 this should be wired to ecu trigger wire, NOT earth abf ecu all same type of diagnostics, obd1/2 isnt really valid for euro vehicles thats US designation. usb cable and vag-com will work with abf ecu
I have relay #80 installed currently, I have a 167 to try too. I will double check but I am 100% certain I connected D13 to the yellow/blue from the ECU to it. I will have a probe around later I will also scan for fault codes (even though the engine is running sweet) with VAGCOM
D13 is connected to the yellow/blue wire that goes to the ecu but somehow it is always being pulled to GND, even with ignition off. Hmmm. Scanned with vag-com - clean bill of health :-)
reet i think you need to back trace it thru the loom to the ecu, probably just damaged insulation somewhere along the way. disconnect the ecu plug and try again, if its still earthed its wire problem, if not its ecu problem!
Sounds like a big job lol. I'll leave it for now. It works, just can't leave the ignition on without the engine running for now. I will get round to it at some point!
You can just about see my cut & shut MK2 airbox with the MK3 one... It doesn't look pretty at the min but does the job & will tidy it up by sanding it down & giving it a lick of paint!
So overall. It took me just over 2 weeks to complete the conversion, although 5 days of that was waiting for a clutch cable. I think it took around 15-20hours to complete including removing the old engine. What I used: 98K ABF Engine from a 1996 MK3 Golf GTi 02A Gearbox Gear Shifter mech (cable) Cable clutch conversion (parts from VW cost 124 inc 10% discount) & a MK2 Golf 1.3 clutch cable Mk2 Golf 1.3 Speedo cable Standard 1.8 8v Rad with MK2 bottom & top hose slightly cut down to fit MK2 rear mount MK3 front mount, slightly modified to suit the MK2 front mount - Corrado 4cylinder one is a straight swap if you have one. Braided 8mm fuel lines I had around from my 20VT conversion MK2 Coil Mk3 battery terminals MK2 airbox cut & shut with a MK3 airbox Modified loom to suit CE1 fusebox Immobilizer box wired up with VAG-COM MK3 Key cut to the MK2 ignition barrel with transponder chip Mk3 710mm decat pipe mated to the MK2 system My conversion was on a budget - I took a chance with the clutch - Seems ok
Ok, a little update: Engine still pulls like a train, love it! However - The clutch cable seems to be stretching & fraying I have bought another cable as VW Hertiage had them on offer for 6.50. The cable in question is a 1.3 MK2 cable... It's a manual adjust & seemed to be adjusted right at the time of fitting. RJ mentioned cutting some of the outer shield off to stop it streaching, however it has the metal support at the top where it enters the car & the large plastic flange at the gearbox end... So I did wonder how to do this said mod? Picture:
You have been driving it around without shortening the outer? That must be one very heavy clutch pedal! Free the bit highlighted off the outer, trim the outer back ~3cm it's a tough spring under there so some strong cutter are needed or a dremel cutting disk. Then push the cap back over the outer and job done.
Yes, I have been driving around with it standard - It seems heavy now but at the time of installing it, I adjusted it & felt normal. It also only just reaches & I thought if I remove some off the outer it would not reach lol When I looked at modifying it I found the plastic part in question was glued to the end & thought it would have to be broken off to remove it. Thanks for the info, I will have a go a cutting back the new one I have a dremel, I'm guessing I will have to be very careful not to catch the inner...
Andy, I fitted the 1.3 cable in my car back in 2009, it still feels nice and light to operate. You should be able to pry the first few coils of the spring section outer apart. Then grab it with some pliers / grips, you can then unwind it away from the cable to mke it easier to cut. Good luck with it, -Ben
