I can hear the lift tank pump prime when I turn the ignition on. The strange 'clicking' noise the relay makes, it sounds like the injectors are also doing it too. It's intermittent though. Cheers for the numbers I'll try another in there. I still have all of the Seat relays and fusebox. I don't need to swap any of these in do I? Is there a way to test if fuel is coming through? Just pull a line off? lol I'll try the lead swapping later. Good to know on the jumper thing, can rule that one out. Am I correct in saying if the imobiliser is kicking in the car should start but then cut out again? Cheers for the daily update in the ABF running saga lol Can't really think of what else it can be.
you can try the seat pump relay! but did you fit the #30 ecu relay? if not you need to switch that over replacing the old mk2 32 relay
Popped up to the garage tonight and...still no joy Really thought putting the #30 relay in may fix the issue but sadly not. Still turns over fine but just won't fire. 12.4v at the battery so plenty of cranking power. I haven't cut the chip away yet but the key is right next to the transponder loop on attempted starts. Tried the seat fuel pump relay in there, made no difference. Tried the #18 relay in the fuel pump slot so the pump ran continuously. No joy. I have established there is fuel getting in through the top fuel hose though so guess that can be ruled out. I have spark on every lead. I'm thinking I may have blown the ECU (I did try and start it without the earth connected before). Would the car be delivering a spark if it were blown? Thought maybe I'd wired the crank sensor and knock sensor up wrong. Plugs are unique though so not that. No brake servo pipe on yet but capped off the hole on the inlet. No difference. Still have a vac hose through the bulkhead open but think this is for the MFA so shouldn't make a difference to starting. Vac line to ECU and vac line from fuel rail to inlet connected and fine. Swapped the leads around but didn't seem to do anything. In fairness I'm not sure how else it could go as the cap only fits on the one way? Looking at other engine bay pics of ABF installs it looks the same and it's the same as the reference pic I took on the Seat before taking them off. Can't be ignition timing as the crank sensor controls that and the dizzy is fixed (wasn't removed, just a new cap). Went back through all of my electrical connectors. Nothing obviously unconnected. Fusebox/relay layout: Wiring connectors in including the fuel pump Z1 Please excuse my drunk camera work but small vid of the connectors: Engine bay wiring vid: And the turning over vid (fuel pump primes on ignition, then again when the ignition is turned off) Completely stumped. It must be something simple I'm sure. Any ideas/suggestions appreciated before I torch it lol RJ I already owe you several pints!
is the round loom plug fully locked down? they can be a git to clip in place. apart from that i think its time for diagnostics!
Cheers, yeah as far as I know, clipped in and fastened using the locking ring. So you don't think I may have blown the ECU then? Do all my connections/relays look ok? Where do I even start with diagnostics? haha. Something like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U281-VW-A..._Equipment&hash=item337711c3ea#ht_1217wt_1398
sometimes they needa really hard twisty to clip fully in, you wouldnt be the first to not get it locked down! does the isv buzz with the ignition. do you have a laptop? if so all you need is a 10 usb able, i wouldnt bother with the cheap handheld readers vag-com is much easier to use
I'll double check but I think it's secure. Whilst on those connections, the crank sensor was new so could perhaps be faulty but I don't think it would be sparking if it were. I don't think the ISV is buzzing no. I don't have a laptop that'll work with VAGCOM unfortunately (doesn't work with macs but might be able to use it through bootcamp I guess). I might be able to borrow a windows lappy. The Handheld readers a bit crap then?
the cheap ones will be! the isv can be very quiet so you may have to feel it. if its not buzzing you have lost the ign live feed for it or the ecu isnt powering up, or the round plug isnt fully locked down. check fuse 15 to start with. are you getting any fuel out the injectors at all? also where did you get the crank sensor from
Checked all fuses last night - all AOK. ISV - will have to check again. Injectors - not sure, I haven't taken all of the inlet etc back off again to check, I just took one of the fuel hoses off. I'll take the inlet off and check this evening. The crank sensor was from VWS - this one http://www.vwsonline.co.uk/car_parts_bristol/037-906-433a.html
depends how its failed! when mine went it was like the immobiliser kicking in it would spark for a few seconds then cut out. leave it further down on the list of things to check thoguh
Cheers RJ, help much appreciated. I'll check the above again tonight - fuse 15, ISV power, if injectors are actually pumping fuel, round plug secure and report back.
Didn't get a lot of time to look into the problem this weekend but ISV is buzzing quietly, fuse 15 was fine. I whipped the upper inlet off again and took the fuel rail out - cranked it over and no fuel is actually coming through the injectors so need to investigate this further.
righto, check you get 12v at the red wire on the fuel rail plug when the pump is running to start with. if not maybe crank sensor is fgaulty out of the box, this can happen!
Cheers, multimeter is the first port of call. I guess maybe I could have put the fuel lines on the wrong way but I don't think I have. Crank sensor is going to be **** to replace again now the front end is built back up if it is that lol Are they picky about how they are situated? I do remember it was a bit of a sod to get to sit flush against the block.
easiest way to do it is put jack under engine, undo front mount and starter so the bracket comes off. at least if you already put a new one in there it will come out easily, ask me how i know
