Didn't get that long to investigate tonight but putting a multimeter on the red wire on the fuel rail plug revealed 11.6v so there is power getting there. Turning the car over with the fuel rail out revealed definitely no fuel going though the injectors. There is fuel through the top hose though. On a slight side note: There is a Mk4 in my local breakers, can I rob the diagnostics wiring (purple plug etc) from the fusebox back from that?
Cheers, right will grab that at the weekend. So I guess I can rule out the crank sensor now if power is getting to the rail?
no you cant unfortunatly, i think it will still run the pump without it using power from starter trigger or maybe cam sensor? if it doesnt spark then i would be looking hard at the crank sensor mate of mine has had one from vws bristol fail after 280miles so maybe they had a bad batch? touch wood mine still ok
Spark seems fine, I have a good spark on all leads after checking them individually. Crank sensor is the only sensor I have changed since it came out of the Ibiza though.
next thing i wopuld check is for continuity from the other 4 injector wires back to the ecu, see the diagram in my sig
Sounding complicated lol. g3abfecu.pdf? Going to ring up VW to see how much a gen crank sensor is at lunch. Sorry to repeat the same stuff again but even though I have good spark I still can't rule out the crank sensor? Apologies this is turning into a never ending saga. Was nervous about the wiring as I hate electrics and don't understand them lol
if the crank sender is returning implausible values back to the ecu it could still spark i assume, next step get vag-com and see what it tells you before you start spending more money. crank sensor is 63+VAT from vw so not as bad as they used to be!
Not as pricy as I was expecting to be honest. I'll get the diagnostics port wired in over the weekend and borrow my mates laptop with Vagcom to scan it. I've just read on another forum that the fuel hoses are the opposite way around on an ABF to 8v Mk2? Is that true? From memory the supply line is the top in the rail currently.
Ok had a another look today and a step in the right direction Bit of a mug, it was something straightforward and I'd got the fuel lines around the wrong way lol Swapped them over, injectors firing and it now starts up straight away but cuts out after around a few seconds which I assume is the immobiliser kicking in. I've taped the immob chip to the transponder ring but further investigation required, I think the taped position may be wrong. Of to peruse the ABF FAQ thread again but pretty happy there's some life in the car now
this seems to be a common mistake to make, another guy doing an abf swap did the same thing this weekend make sure you can hear the immobiliser box make a faint click with the ignition on, and get another reader coil from the scrapper in case the one you have is knackered ideally get diagnostics on it, the ecu fault codes will tell you if the immobiliser is kicking in, and the immobiliser fault codes will tell you why its kicking in
Yeah, I think they are the opposite way around to how it was on the 8v from memory. Mug lol Immob box clicks but the wiring looks a bit dif to another picture I've seen (pos because it's Seat and not VW) so need to check I've done it right. I grabbed the diagnostics plug etc from a Mk3 this week but also found the Seats hidden away in the garage so I didn't chuck it. Will get this wired in once the VagCom cable shows. I'm away for the week but hopefully get it running finally next weekend. Seems to rev freely in the few seconds it runs, just the immob killing the power I think
ah yeah you have late diagnostics, that means late mk3, cab, seat and polo for the reader coil bit of a pain
Got back on this again this afternoon, got VAGCOM working (just the free version you get with the eBay leads) and these are the findings. Can I please check that the wiring is correct too? (ignore the choc block connectors in places, it's just temp). Immob box No noise from this, I thought it was powering up but doesn't seem to be that I can tell. VAGCOM findings When testing the car it came up as not OBD2 compatible but still seemed to work ok so not sure if this is an issue? A full scan revealed this immobilizer code: A scan on just the immobilzer revealed 'signal too low': Wiring I managed to find the Seat diagnostics wiring loom so have been using that. This is how I've wired it up: 'Unknown wire' is the red wire from the immobilzer box and was not connected to anything further up the loom. I connected to a switched live as I presume it's the live wire for the immob box, is this correct? It's this circled one from an earlier pic I took, no plug or anything on it Chip placement This is where I stuck the chip Any help appreciated, starting to get pretty tired of getting this fecking thing started now lol
the red wire is supposed to be permanent live, looks like i left it to be spliced with the vag-com permanent live wire but forgot to mention it the fact you can read immob codes means its powering up fine, what you do with vag-com is press the select button top left, then click 01: engine or 25: immobiliser I can see straight away why the signal is too low, you put the chip in the wrong place. it needs to be on the front of the reader not the back! think about when that coil reader is clipped over the ignition barrel, and where the chip would be if the key was then fitted into the ignition
Righto thanks. So sorry - red Vagcom wire and the red wire from the immob box need to joined together? Or just fix both to a permanent live? (where is best location for perm live?) I'll move the chip.
you can join them together or run separately it makes no odds. as long as they get permanent live you're fine. tbh the vag-com port can be ign live if you like that doesnt matter just put perm live to the red wire to the immob box
Right I see, excuse my stupidity with wiring but splice them together and then run them to a perm live? Any particularly good place to find a suitable perm live? Everything else look all AOK? Cheers!
a good place is the ciggy lighter loom, do it after the 3 pin plug that way you can pull the engine loom out still. another thing you could do is crimp a spade onto the end and pop it into one of the spare Y spades
