No, but I'd like to see the differnce it makes in a mk2 - if a mk3 VR6 is barely any quicker (i'd say a full 1 sec faster 0-60 is quite a difference myself), just be curious to see the advantage of 200kg's weight saving
ive played with a few good mk3 vr6s and had my ass handed to my on standing starts. with a ropey vr6 (mk3), ill give em a go, the one on sunday wasnt hard work. as for a mk2, that should really show the difference a weight saving makes. youre miles away tho. is your engine good and healthy? speed wise, top of 4th is 120-125
my mk3 16v is well maintained, produces 30 - 40mpg and is quick, and is basically exactly the same to 70 as my mates mk2 8v gti with a 268 "rally" cam, so i would expect to be owned by a mk2 16v and absolutely floored by a mk2 vr6!!!
ive chased a mk2 16v and ****ed of him... but every mk2 16v is different... this guy had wur mod and was a nice mk2 16v. megasquirting a abf will help it tons.
Guys you're way off topic with all this VR chat!! My 2.0L 8v eats VR's and 16v's all thanks to the gas and I'll see anyone who says nitrous is cheating on the track! So Mat82...get it done! WoN kits IMHO are the best having used Nos, and NX kits in the past too. Base kit isn't too expensive and if all you want to do is run 25hp will probably be fine. Although if it was me I'd run 50hp and a progressive controller but that's something you could think about later if you wanted.
What about when it runs out So your 8v mk3 can beat a bog standard VR6 when it's getting pumped full of NOS, well done...
All fair points that man. But Mat82 didn't ask if he should swap his 16v for a VR is all I'm saying. I just didn't see the relevance of a 16v is faster than a VR except when its in a mk2 etc type chat had on the original question, hence my comment which helps him about as much as all the chat about different engines in different cars. Which is why I began by saying the engines section probably isn't the best place for this post. Not that there's anything wrong with VR's and I'll take my hat off to anyone who goes to the trouble of putting a VR in a mk2. So good effort. I can appreciate the hard work which must have gone into it. But I think saying "well done you can beat a bog stock VR pumping your car full of gas" is a bit unfair. If people think its that easy to get 200+ bhp from an 8v by "pumping" in nitrous then its ever likely we get coments like "its cheating". Takes a bit more than a bottle and a hose to get that kind of power regularly and reliably from that engine when everything below the head gasket is still stock. Don't forget they're only 115ish hp out of the crate. Bang for the buck nitrous makes perfect sense and unless you're flat out on a track all the time it can make great real world sence too. If you're happy with the car you drive most of the time and just want a little bit more go for the traffic light GP or back road thrash then its the stuff for you. My car is my daily driver and only form of transport, it does around 25k a year + track days. I use the nitrous on road and track and it gives the extra performance when I need it and only when I need it. Rest of the time she's not wearing out as fast or using as much juice. Once again back to the point. I'd follow 444IN's advice and seek the advice of noswizard if you're interested in a kit. There base kit is around 490 + VAT which you can upgrade from there on if you want. The gas its self is normally around 5 per lb if you buy from a re-fill station with the WoN car bottles in either 5lb or 11lb sizes. Cost is substantially less if you buy in bulk. (companies will rent you a huge container from which you can fill your smaller in-car tank yourself)
i would not swap my abf for a vr, with all due respect to the owners, apart from the sound and maybe lower end flexibility, i cannot see much point. they drink like fish/whales, possibly harder to work on due to size. i bet when i chased the vr on sunday, i was getting better MPG than he was on his drive to the meet lol as for adding gas to my car, it really is a tempting idea. like sdj, you keep the basic engine characteristics and then can add the power when you want/need it. i would be tempted to go for a setup that only armed after 4krpm because youre only really liking to be going above there continually when youre ringing its neck. a vr in a mk2 really ought to be quick though due to power to weight, wouldnt like my odds lining up against one of those lol but, are they going to handle as well? we're off topic, but i think we've gotten to the answer. subject to cost, im considering adding gas. (in the meantime im going to look into ditching my front seats in favour of lighter ones so that i can reduce the lard a bit)
good matt keep your abf and nos it too if it blows just rebuild the block.. belongs it doesn't take out the block lol.
if it blows, im liking 20vt idea. has anyone put an S4 2.7 twin turbo in there before? it wont blow aaaanyway, i treat it nicely *touches a lot of wood*
You won't blow it up. If its well look after as it sounds to be then you've got nothing to worry about. On thing about the activating over 4k though Matt is that the beauty of using gas is that you don't need to rev it to get it shifting. You rev your 16v because that's where the peak power and torque is. With the gas you could activate it at 3k and ride the torque wave shifting up early all the time save reving the t@ts off your motor!! You can get the same (often more) torque lower down. One thing most people don't realise is that a 25 (or 50 or whatever) shot of nitrous is just that. 25hp. It doesn't matter where in the rev range you are. And as power is torque * engine speed the lower down the rev range you activate the more torque the kit delivers. Example. Activate Kit X on Car X at 6000rpm and you get +25hp and +25ft/lb of torque. Now activate the same kit on the same car but at 3000rpm. With a good quality kit you should be expecting +25hp and +50ft/lb torque. I've found when I race turbo or NA cars of similar peak power levels I leave them for dead because nitrous assisted cars often make large amounts of torque relative to their peak hp outputs. On a flat out run I'm often shifting gear at around 5500rpm as there's no need to ring its neck.
I just like to spark up a bit of debate, wasn't trying to create a VR6 vs ABF debate, they are, afterall, two very different engines, no guesses as to which I prefer though - I think the ABF is a great engine though and as for NOS, it's not a route I'd take personally, but I guess the "bang per buck" factor is pretty high and I appreciate it's "on tap", so can be used as and when - I just like the idea of power always being there and not just for a few minutes. And matt82, don't start the VR6 mk2 handling argument off
funkbaron, I tell you right now what would be awesome. A nitrous VR mk2... common that man you know you want to! I will put money on the fact that once you've tried it you'll never look back!!
I'm helping a friend (philwept33) from here build his VR mk2, he's bought a nitrous kit for his...i'm interested to see how it goes
Funkbaron, Just noticed you've got Southampton down in your location. You ever head up to No-Rice? I'm along in Brighton. I could try and convert you to the dark side in person!!
Don't tease me!!! I've not tried but I'd have thought you could stick 75-100bhp of gas through a stock VR on a progressive controller easy if the ignition and fuel system were up to the job.
