So after work I printed off your guide and Ce1 fusebox diag and sat in the floor trying to figure out where to start All plugs are off the audi loom, bin wires are gone from loom with a bit left incase I ever need em Ecu relay is stripped out and ready to be extended to fusebox I guess the temp sensor wires for the ECU are wired direct to the ECU plug , the other ones for the tt dash are wired into the t14 plug (not needed) i can either wire my old 2 pin plug to the tt dash ones on the t14a and then into the other end of that back to the dash for neatness .... thinking about it, i could do this for the oil wires and anything else of the mk 2 wiring im using .. hmmm depends how anal i want to be I need a Ce1 wiring diag for the engine bay loom to make sure the wires I'm taking out are the correct ones and not going to be needed preferably with wire colours to id whats what I'm worried that the the D13 wire goes to what looks like an indicator in the same area of the wiper connection do i splice this or cut and join in the purple/white ? I dont think i'll extend the DBW wires but find a spare pair of plugs and make a loom up from the pedal to the new plugs I need to extend all the wires from the tt loom into the ce1 fusebox i have a couple of colour differences on my wires, i'll go into to these tomorrow, i think i can bin them (possibly aircon wires) i'll go over the ary wiring diag to see what these do This wire is spare i cant find a yellow/brown on your guide , dont remember what plug its from either (SAI valve ..Bin?) Here is what it looks like... yes its a mess but i know here it all goes now My t14a On the alternator i have 2 pins on the back plug do i connect my blue wire to No1 or No2 ? I just want to say that i have finally realised the way to wire this in , and its really all down to you RJ i know i'm a pain in the butt, but i could not have got this far without your help, i will get it done and cant thank you enough for your constant help and patience with me Steve
have a look at the fusebox faq for the CE1 pins, but pretty much everything in there now is needed just with length tweaks. d/13 is the fuel relay trigger, on the mk2 it runs to a 2 pin spade in the scuttle just trim back and splice to the 20v loom. it will have an ecu relay live to the same area as well from plug R, the trouble is the 20v will throw a code unless you do something with the ecu relay trigger earth so prob better not to use it. plus i worry the small pin may not be able to cope with the load! there is a crankign live wire along with the above, this goes to a spade on plug r but that is no longer needed. it might have another fuel pump live spade for e/14 but IIRC ce1 digi looms dont? there is a black wire for the coil live you wont need that any more, you could use it for the ecu ignition live or instead use the d/2 or d/7 as they're fused. Keep the coil red/black but drag it back behind the fusebox, you'll need to put your rev counter adaptor there. apart from that you'll be left with all the dash sensor wires, starter wire, reverse switch, wiper etc which all need keeping then adjusting to fit. brown/yellow is probably for the SAI N112 valve which you no longer need with the dash wiring yes the way I do it is tap the old mk2 dash wire to the 20v purple wire, then i change the 4 pin temp sensor plug for a mk3 one and use the mk3 4 pin sensor. i also tap one of the oil pressure wires into the 20v oil pressure wire. i run the other pressure and oil temp direct to the sensors, but only so that the 2nd half of the 20v loom can be replaced with another no problems. you could use spare pins for the other oil wires, or maybe the old oil level/temp wire to the sump could be repurposed for the mfa oil temp sensor for example
Thanks John Any news on the Alternator wires? And would the sump sensor for oil temp send the correct info to mk2 mfa?
oh sorry, the battery wire is the blue one look right at the end just before it goes into the plug. labelled D+ on alternator or pin 2 on the 2 pin plug. the other pin DFM goes to the ECU pin 28/white 10 pin plug pin 5
if you find it easier you can move the blue alternator trigger wire into the engine loom, pin D/4 that way you can run that and dfm together to the alternator. bit of a pain to remove the wire from lighting loom without a tool though!
I just cut the Alternator plug from the loom of the tt, this was attached to alt wire and pretty much went same way as the mk2 alt wiring
Thing are moving along albeit a bit slowly I have sorted the Alternator connections and now the pin DFM goes to the ECU via a nice plug next to the blue wire With the MK3 golf 1.8-2.0 8v 4 pin coolant temp sensor part number 357919501A or 6U0919501B, are either of these compatiable with the original mk4 plug ? I'm struggling to understand the ECU Relay wiring a bit i have a digi loom and a plug R (the green 2 pin plug in the lower pic ) what goes where ? i have read the various options in the guide but cant make head nor tail of which applies to me EDIT : Today i have been looking closer at the ECU/Coilpacks The coil packs and engine loom are powered with the thick black/purple The ecu is powered by the thick Red/Black These two get joined and powered by the same relay, But i cant use the old Digi relay position with a #53 relay as mine is an ARY loom with a factory fitted Relay (same as AUM?) So do i use this way AUM type loom (with 109 relay): Where do i get this ?? can i not use the original #428 one that came in the relay holder ? 30 - permanent live (use one of the live spades on the back of fusebox) 85 - purple earth trigger wire from ECU 87 - power for ECU/Coilpacks Does this not need a connection opposite the purple ? like a regular relay Also the original relay holder has a black wire going to it and the went off to Brown T8/1 , although this wire went to the relay housing, the relay did not have a connector to it. Any idea why not ? see this pic , the relay on right is the one, you can see the black wire going in but not attached to relay Trigger for ecu relay is Purple from ECU pictured below
And the t14 on the engine loom This does not have the green/black in pos 10 As stated in the guide, I added it to my plug in the loom and when I went to plug it in realised the engine loom was missing it too.. Just leave it out?? http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r232/stevewade42/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0031_zpstv7ocbyc.jpg[/IMG]
yeah thats the right sensor the trouble with the factory 53 relay is i dont think plug R on the fusebox can take the load, plus as you say sicne the loom came with a factory ecu relay the ecu earth wire needs to be hooked up to a relay otherwise it'll log a code. could prob get it coded out but with the plug R problem I would use a seperate relay above the fusebox or leave the factory ecu relay box in place. you can use a 109 relay if you move it above the fusebox, or even a normal switched relay wire it the same way with ecu wire to pin 85 just needs an ignition live to 86. you could extend and use the original relay at the fusebox too, its just the mk4 relay holder wont clip neat. you can find clippy holders that take the MK4 type relay however, if you look at mk3 gofl with ABS (or most 90s vw with abs) they'll have 1 or 2 suitable holders. the black wire is an ignition live and isnt used on yours, some other mk4 looms must use it aso it is added in at the manufacturing stage. T14a/10 is unused on DBW looms with the T2 plug, as the coil & ecu live feed runs to that instead
It's nearly done The ECU/coilpacks are all wired in and ready, just need to add a spade on the power to it and plug it in .. Everything else except the DBW wires are extended so i'll do that tomorrow Then not far from turnkey ... Eddie has my ECU at the mo and is attempting to IMMO off it, hope this goes well I need to remove the after cat lambda wires they are as follows T4g/1 Blue/red T4g/2 grey/yellow T4g/3 grey/white T4g/4 grey/red But i have 2 Blue/red which one can i get rid off ? it looks like one comes out of the sensor ? i dont have a plug on anything there so i need to get the correct ones removed
blue/red is the fuel pump power feed for the lambda heaters, I take it both your lambda plugs were snipped off? If so snip one of the blue/reds out and leave the other for the wideband lambda. they both run back into the loom and splice into the main fuel pump power wire from the fusebox T6 plug, trace it back and snip off one of them and then cover in tape to seal
Yes both plugs are missing, I thought I had them but can't find them, trip to scrappy needed Sent from my Z1 Sony using sausage fingers and tapatalk
I have a sensor from mk3, it's the one ending in 501a Which wire goes where? I don't have a plug :-( So will have to use spades for time being (yes rank I know) Sent from my Z1 Sony using sausage fingers and tapatalk
To be honest I did not see any, wish I had a plug tho Sent from my Z1 Sony using sausage fingers and tapatalk
Thanks John Can you still buy the plug from VW? If so what part no and same for the terminals.. Ta Sent from my Z1 Sony using sausage fingers and tapatalk
