sure can, 357919754 - 5.35+VAT. takes standard junior/power timer pins available from all over, dont forget the wire seals can be found in scrappy too obv, either on temp sensor on 1.8-2.0 8v or on most mk3 era aircon systems on one of the pressure/temp switches. think the vr6 may have one as well, plus early mk4 for coolant temp
I think a trip to bridges the scrap car place in pease pottage is in order Saturday morning I still need a wideband lambda plug, may even get another sensor too, and I still need a flexi to make the downpipe with Sent from my Z1 Sony using sausage fingers and tapatalk
I have been looking at lambda sensors today, this is the plug on my sensor (sensor damaged) It has an extra attachment on the plug, what's this for? It's wideband, I can get another plug and sensor from an 02 Leon 1.6 16v, it has 5 wires so I assume it's wideband Will it work or does it need to be the same sensor? The Leon is scrap so I can take it if I need it Leon plug Sent from my Z1 Sony using sausage fingers and tapatalk
i dont recognise either of those, foudn this on google though seem to be under-car box so probably explains why i havent see em: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?990129-DIY-Replacing-oxygen-sensors I've only had bay looms in which have these ends:
Hmm I wonder what that extra bit on my plug is... I'll take it apart and have a look Sent from my Z1 Sony using sausage fingers and tapatalk
i can see it in the wiring diagram, its a circle with 2 lines across. no mention of what it actually is though
I took the cover off and this is what's inside.... Sent from my Z1 Sony using sausage fingers and tapatalk
It's almost like a usage counter, maybe the current flows into it and when the bar reaches the end it makes contact and throws a code in the ecu??!! Sent from my Z1 Sony using sausage fingers and tapatalk
That component is a laser-trimmed resistor, used to calibrate the lambda sensor at factory. It provides a sensor-specific calibration and eliminates the need to do a "free air" calibration on the sensor.
OK, cool.... Still means very little to me!! But thanks trev Can any type of 5 wire wideband lambda be used? Sent from my Z1 Sony using sausage fingers and tapatalk
wow im so glad i found this post basically i have a mk4 golf (the later one) and pulled the harness out and done exactly what you did and couldnt work out why mine was different to RJs my loom is exactly like yours. i can go bed now and get up and know what to do finally
I got a fair bit done yesterday, front of the car is back on and the rad / intercooler is in too While I was having a tidy up found my lamba wiring plugs! I knew I had them, I soldered it on and the dbw plug too and started putting the loom back in the car. I even found a 4 pin mk3 plug, of all places in my garden with an old mk3 engine and loom we have laying about Only problem is getting pin 4 out of my T14 plug to refit a new one as I cut the purple out thinking I would not need it, I have a tiny stub left and even with a decent tool it won't come out, maybe I'm doing something wrong, I slide the purple plastic centre over a bit and then I reckon it should come out, but it won't, does the purple bit come out? I can get the same pins out of a different style plug, like the 6 pin one where you slide the purple u slider right out, but the T14 is different Any ideas Pics later Sent from my Z1 Sony using sausage fingers and tapatalk
you need to lever the purple bit sideways then the pins will be free, it can take a good shove to move it but you will feel it click. theres an arrow on the purple thing but i cant remember if thats the lock or unlock direction. try both ways you know you have it in the unlock position if it wont plug into its mating connector
Well i gave up trying to get that pin out of the T14 . i will wire the dash side of the plug onto the original engine bay loom Can you tell me what i do with the upper oil sensor wire from the original loom, i have transferred the oil pressure switches from the 8v to the oil filter housing and they connect fine, but i have the upper blue wire (from the head) and dont know where i put it , if its kept ? I also have a brown/white with a ring connector left over, i think it was earthed to the head on the 8v at the water connector , do i need to keep this and re earth it ? The loom is in and i have connected the E14's up, just need to connect the permanent live and power the ECU relay All the plugs are in the right places and fully fitted, it was a nightmare getting the rubber grommets over the plugs, even after dismantling the plugs with the correct tools. DBW pedal is in and wired up Another question Will the fuel pump activate via the ECU? normally when i turn the ignition on the fuel pump will activate , its not doing it right now Have i done something wrong ? My ECU is with Eddie at the moment Thanks for the help Steve
What colour wires have you used for the oil switches? You should have yellow from G2/10 for oil pressure high. Blue/black from G2/11 for oil pressure low. Green/black from G2/1 is for oil temp. Brown and white is earth for sensors on the engine. What I do is join it in the loom to the brown/white at the 14 pin plug and use the earth on the 20vt loom. Fuel pump is triggered by the purple/white wire in pin 2 of the brown plug, this goes to G1/3. Check that this is going to earth when cranking.
The brown/white wire with ring terminal is the earth for the MFA cluster, splicing it to the MK4 T14a brown/white wont do anything as the MK4 wire isnt earthed. the mk4 brown/white is the earth for the dash coolant temp sensor, and its supposed to run back into the MK4 dash loom to earth there. What you need to do is earth the brown/white to the head and earth the mk4 brown/white as well, either splice it into the mk2 brown/white or to the MK4 chunky brown. for the oil pressure switches you should have 2 wires a yellow and a black/blue, they both need to run to the original mk2 oil switches in the mk4 filter housing. what I do is splice 1 of them to the mk4 pressure wire on the t14a, and run the other direct to the filter housing along with the mk2 green/black oil temp sensor wire. you could just run them all direct instead if you prefer, or you could re-use some of the spare pins on the T14a for them. as above the ecu fires the fuel pump relay, since its not there that will be why
What a nightmare I got my ECU back from Eddie on sunday and have been itching to plug it in At first i had no fuel pump, i sorted that then found out the ecu had no power, relay had power and earths were ok so i checked at the ecu and found the middle black wire had no power, so i traced the centre black wire back and realised i had not connected it to anything It is pin 3 in this diag Once i had connected it to an ignition live at G3 i heard all the injectors click and throttle body make noise But as i was getting ready to start the car, smoke started pouring from the loom !!! turns out the red/green that goes from a permanent live (one of the P terminals) to the ECU had fried I managed to get the battery terminal off before it all went up in flames !! upon inspection the red/green perm live goes to the same place on ECU as the Relay live, it confuses me, why would there be a constant live and a relay switched live going to the same terminal ?? and why does a huge wire terminate into a tiny wire on the ECU whats the point of the thick wire ? And why would it fry ? I'm reasonably sure the ignition was not on, but to be truthful the moments surrounding the almost fire and me rushing about trying to find a 10mm spanner are a bit of a blur !!! pic of affected wire, the thick red/black is ecu relay live Can anyone explain which terminal on the ECU needs 12v constant and which needs ignition live and relay powered live I would have thought that pin 3 on ECU would be relay controlled i'll pull the loom out again tomorrow and remove the melted wire and have another go
