Intresting Thread! im looking at changing my block soon as the piston ring has gone on mine.. its a 1800 8V GTI, with that famous TSR head... Standard valves though! (would i see an increase without a big valve head or not?) IF YES.. would this be better on a 2.0 or that more revvy 1.9?... im guessing the 2.0 would be the cheaper option as i could use the block from the MK3? Got a Kent Gs1H 266 cam in the head... so this isnt a major cam......what would it be like on the 1.9 / 2.0 block?
get some big valves, a 2E block and your away. the 2.0 isnt very revvy on a std head, a BVH will solve that and it will be as revvy as a 1.9 especially if you lighten the flywheel. and from your sig it looks like you have most the bolt on goodies to give you a nice setup
Have you done a compression test yet? I've got a 1.8 block and pistons I don't need, but you'd need to come and get them. If you happen to be up towards London-shire, let me know. In general, the 2.0 can take a bit more cam as a road engine than a 1.8, without losing driveability as it's got more torque, and a higher compression ratio as standard. However you'll get to a point where it doesn't rev well enough to get the best out of the cam, without serious head and induction work. A 2.0 8v with a 266cam and std valves in a ported head, would be a nice driveable road engine. It would probably run out of puff at about 6k rpm. Having said that, Toyotec's standard 3A lump on megasquirt pulls to about 6.5k, because it's getting enough fuel at the top end, and the ignition is tweaked to suit, so if you optimised yours, it would go very nicely, without setting any records.
at a guess, what sort of BHP increase would i get from the 2.0? Noticeable? in other words, even though its got standard GTI valves.. would it run better with the 2.0 bottom end.. or would it be better to keep a 1800? and yes ive compression tested it at 6 bar! on cylinder 3.. the others are at 15 bar cheers mike
As a general rule, the 2.0 would be better. Not sure if the carb will start to restrict it, but 2.0 and 3.0 capris ran on a 32/36 (I think) carb, so your 32/34 isn't that far away.
On the spec you have you'll gain around 4-5 hp, but at lower rpm than in the 1800, along with a fatter mid range torque curve, again at lower rpm than the 1800. If the 1800 peaks at around 5500/5600rpm, a 2ltr with the same spec will peak around 4900/5000. To get the peak power rpm up you'll need more inlet valve area and more cam, something like 276-280 duration will be fine with a 2ltr for road use, but the c.r must come up or the cam will be waisted and low end power will suffer.
i dont now the exact internals of my 8v but its pretty quick, i no its a 2e block and has a lightend flywheel. but it doesnt come on the cam properly until about 4200rpm then it will happily spin up in 1st, 2nd and 3rd in the wet the cam looks like it has very steep lobes aswell when i took the cam cover off. it easily keeps up with mk3 16v's and a new s3 only just startes to pull away when i change to 4th (private roads obv)
argh it all seems too much effort.. for such little gain.. and considering ive got a 266 cam, i might aswell stick with a 1800 and have that tuned... also saves me faffing around with the carb re-jetting.. my cars stayed with the mk2 16v.. and a 106 gti with cams, manifold, chip etc... so tbh cant be too bad
Not really the whole story... A 2.0 lump will probably cost you less than fixing your poorly 1.8, so it really depends on what you can find for sensible money. Also, a 2.0 would produce a really torquey, driveable engine, so it would be great in 'normal' driving too, as well as a bit more powerful when you're ragging it.
so, ill need a 2E block.. but the MAIN thing that has put me off is... it was a K-jet head, and yes im running a carb, so therfore i need to use the dizzie off the K-jet with the vac advance.. but it confuses me in the 2.0 FAQ when it suggests some sort of adapter ring[:S] i have no idea where i would get one from! and to re-jet my carb, where would i take / send that?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=220311896619 .. this would help!
I wouldn't buy it, without seeing it close up. 2nd hand ported heads are a total lottery. You know you've got a good one, so why take the risk. 40/33 is std digi valve size, so no big deal. I think yours probably has those sizes anyway. Also, Mk1 heads aren't hydraulic tappet, so unless it's from a late cabby, the seller doesn't know what he's got.
