Building a Syncro 2li 16v Turbo

looking good mate, wish i had the experties to do that kinda conversion, looks very tidy, wish you all the best in the future for the project

 

any more updates

 

Steph, a quote from Saturday night...

"You're entering a whole world of pain"

 

I'm sure Hulk Hogan wasnt out with us

Pain, if its no bleedin it nah sare.


I opened up a box the other day and found the ABS system, it was a calming moment, it didnt take long to seal the box back up.

I keep getting ability and capability mixed up.

Note to self: get a feckin move on

 

steph, this is awesome and i have already started to collect my parts, but please could somebody tell me whther i have to do all this as well, or is there a less time consuming way?!

mine is only a 2wd!

keep your chin up, i imagine it gets you down at times!

good luck.

 

I have been busy on other motors this year and the ring and stuff so I havn't really got any further on this project since the start of the year,

I'm still buying parts and stuff and Ive fitted the front and rear wheel bearings, but thats about it.

Dispite this I am hoping to get it rolling before the ead of the year as I'm moving it to the garage next to my house.


Quote:
or is there a less time consuming way?!


Yes Buy a 1.8t and drop it in and forget about 16VT, 4WD haldex and Widetack

16VT Quick option
Main parts:

Spacer Plate
Mk3 16v inlet Manifold & fuel rail
Exhaust manifold & Downpipe
Intercooler & Induction pipe
Turbo
Management, (Megasquirt or other)

 

Been looking at this project. It'll be worth the wait!! I don't suppose you live in Andover do you?

 

Just read the whole thread....good skills that man.

Any updates?

 

is this project still on the cards? no updates for a while. been waiting and hoping for more info. hope this hasnt been pushed to one side.

Rick

 

Dispite my best intentions, I couldnt make the time to get on with the car last year. A new job and building 2 other track golfs was quite taxing.

However, come easter the VR will be heading off to Germany for the season and I will crack on.

I have gutted out the garage ready for the syncro to be brought from its cave ie, glory hole where I keep/hide/ store car parts.


stay tuned

 

You have actually EMPTIED one of those garages? I refuse to believe it.

 

Its true mate,

Ive actually cleaned out 2, it took me fecking ages, and several trips to the dump.

Still to sort the workshop out, might give that a go today.

 

the k04 will still only run 16 psi max you can take it further but it wont last long, ive tries it. tturbo technic's mani is good, i would have jus bolted on a garret 2871r on it n run 21 psi all day ! what power are u going for ?

 

I'm aiming to set and run it at 1.5bar and see how I get on, its been used solely for track, so I dont see the point in winding it right up and playing a lottery.

My biggest issue that I can see at the moment is sorting out and controling the haldex,

 

Well the time has at last come to crack on with this little project.

The first job to do was to dig the bloody thing out and get it moved to my house so I could get to work on it . For the past year and a half Ive just been buying stuff and throwing it in the garage.




There was a few bit and pieces that I decided to get shot off, and a pile for disposal wasnt long in being formed

I managed to find both the mk 4 shifters that I had misplaced earlier in the year as well.







Next off was to get the syncro chassis mobile:

This wasn't that hard considering what was in the garage's parts store. I had originally planned using a mk2 subfame with passat wishbones but I decided on opting for the Mk3 setup. So I dug out a complete mk3 subframe, I do have right and left hand drive set-ups so I was careful in getting the right one, some 5 stud hubs and a couple of old struts, after about 40min it was all together and the front end was ready for some wheels.

I then got the syncro wheeled out onto the drive and moved into place ready for towing.

as all the doors had been binned ages ago as they were full of dings and dents. The replacement, that I got a year ago were just shoehorned into the garage. So I had the lovely job of bolting all them back on.








With the syncro ready to rock, I then towed it around to my house and after shuffling the VR6 to another garage the chassis was rolled into its new home.







lastly for today was to tidy up the syncros old home and sort the drive system out. The TT rear end that I bought with the haldex was dug out and the 6 speed box as well, this time Ive put them both together with the shifters so I know exactly where they are now.


My parts store is now tidy and ready for more parts :whistle:

 

sorted out the front chassis legs. so I had to strip the front subframe off to start, Wheels, Hubs , Struts, wishbones and finally the actual sub frame.

The chassis on the syncro is a cracker tbh, the main sils are straight and true and dont require anything other than a strip down and reseal.

The chassis legs did show a bit of surface rust at a few places so I thought I had better strip them both down and make sure there wasnt anything more sinister hiding underneath the paint and seal it is a 20 year old motor after all.

This is what I started with pretty groggy and covered in crap and a shed load of underseal.









Fortunately it was only surface rust and they stripped down really well





The finished result, they look pretty darn good








Next jobs are to finish off and top coat the engine bay, refurb the subframe and fit poly bushes to the wishbones.

 

I decided on sorting the sunframe out so after putting the heater on in the workshop for an hour I headed out. It was a bit toasty inside tbh.

Started off with this



It wasnt in bad nick but it was covered in crap and it needed altering a little.


Anyway, off with the steering rack and the ARB.






With the rack off I could now get full access to both sides of the engine and gearbox mounts.

The mounts are not bolted on so mr 3 1'2" hand to come out the box. and off they came




Finished off by cleaning it all up, degreasing and then painting.

 

Wishbones before the strip down





Wishbones refurbed and rebushed , I used the poly's on the valver so I just bought standard bushes, I'll see how I'll get on.








The subframe all fresh and ready to be bolted on.








The hubs got stripped down repainted and new bearings pressed in.







Prop shaft all freshly stripped and repainted








Rather that putting the gaz gold straight on, I opted for the used spax syncro set-up,

Ive used the 11mm dia bolts on the struts so I have an extra 2mm of movement available for camber adjustment







Lastly The whole lot bolted together. The steering rack has just been degreased and painted,.

 

I finished off the front subframe set up.






The steering rack was bolted back on and the car was then taken off the trolley at the front. The car was now wheeled out and span round ready to start work on the rear subframe and axle.












I then had to go and dig out the rear TT subframe and axle that I had squirreled away in the parts garage, the only bit of use is the Haldex Diff and the driveshafts, maybe. This was another Ebay find, the diff alone would have cost me anything up to 300, I got the whole lot for a fraction of that price. My son Ewan, aged 3, helped me with this. He had the arduous task of nut and bolt collector and passing me tools, it won't be long until he can tell the difference between the socket sizes. Which is a lot more than my misses can do.





/IMG]



Because of the weight and size of the subframe I really had to strip it down a great deal before I could take it home to the workshop. So the trailing arms, wishbones ARB, and driveshaft's were removed before I put it into the car.





It is very unfortunate that this little lot doesn't just bolt on completely to the Mk2 syncro, hence why the removal. It can be done with a lot of engineering and a spare Audi TT rear end but these items weren't to hand.

 

The first job to do prior to lifting the car into the air was to remove the handbrake cables and then break and remove the hub nuts. The hub nuts had not been off in 7+ years so I had to use a rather large extender bar on the socket to get them off, one gave a hell of a snap when it released.




I then raised the car as high as the car stands would go. The propshaft was then undone and the subframe was then supported. I then set about releasing all the bolts and mount points. I was very surprised at not having any seized nuts by this point, fortunately for me everything came off swimmingly well with no troubles, even the brake pipes unbolted.


Check out the tow angle of this, I think the car might just crab with this setting .





With the whole subframe released, I removed the wheels and the whole lot was now mobile on the trolley, I set about stripping it down, principally the same way as the TT subframe, and it too stripped down without any issue.









Another pile of bits that wont be used, but once cleaned up I might be able to sell them or keep them as spares.





I am now left with the more manageable syncro rear diff and the axle subframe.





The axle and diff has now been moved and is sitting on the biggest workmate bench I have, ready for the next stage.






Another issue with the TT stuff, How inconsiderate I here you say, is that it won't bolt directly onto the original syncro subframe. I now have to make up a mounting jig for the axle so I can then remove the syncro diff and then fit the Haldex diff into the exact position. Following this I then have to make and weld on some fitting points and brackets.



Like most things there is an aftermarket mounting kit for the Haldex to syncro but it still requires the same amount of welding, so mine will be home made at no cost.