Building a Syncro 2li 16v Turbo

I set about sorting the jig out, having seen a few haldex convertions on the net I got the gist off it and set about putting it together. I made a paper stencil and took a trace of the bolt pattern, I then placed the stencil on some 2mm plate and cut to size, next up was to drill the bolt pattern. I then had to find a spacer to go over the locater, a quick alteration to a used wishbone bush done the trick. Now either it was pure jamminess or wither ive learned something over the years It fitted on perfectly.






The grinder was now needed, after swapping the disk over to a stripping disc, I then made the weld areas sound ready to mount the cross beam







Cross beam measured and welded into place ,







With the welding done the syncro diff could now be removed.







Ive now got to remove the areas highlighted in red, ive started on it but its a pain in the bottom to do and loads of cutting and grinding so Ive had to stop or the neighbours might get annoyed at the noise.






both diffs together, how things have changed.







Stay tuned...................................

 

great and interesting write up there.. got me hooked.

the rear end 4wd sure looks heavy

 

Cheers Bill,

The TT set up is considerably heavier, but it will take hopefully take and handle the power and abuse it'll be getting.

Fancy an independant rear end for that beast of yours?

 

not allowed in my regs.
(and too heavy... struggled to get it down to 1000kg, dont want to add more kg in there)

 

Liking your progress, what G-box are you planning on running on the car?

 

Thats a pity Bill,

for info, with the stripped down subframe and trailing arms set-up there is really not alot in it with the rear beam on a standard Mk2 , I'll get some scales out and do some weighing me thinks.

 

Im using a 6 speed O2M gearbox from a TT.

Ive had a few pains in the bottom with this but hay ho, seams like the norm with this project. I'll cover it when I fit the box

 

Just a little further .

I have finished stripping down the syncro rear beam. There was quite a lot of metal to remove and a good bit of grinding to be done to remove the previous welds.

anyways job done








With the beam stripped and ready, it was time to move the diff into place, the diff is quite heavy and wider than the syncro one so, After ive welded the supports and brackets into place, I'll get a mate to make sure the joints and metal work are sufficiently welded.


The diff bolted up well and was only about 1mm off plumb centre, after a little fiddle and a washer it was sorted,

I had hoped to get the stenciling for the metalwork done but it started to spit and get damp so thats all for now.

 

I did get time on sunday and I got my stencils done :thumb:

A bit blue peter esk, just a few bits of cardboard and some sticky tape and here's what I made earlier sort of thing.

anyway here goes:













I'll get the cutting done next time

 

Cutting out all the stencils





I then I had to do some drilling and bending to match up with the existing haldex holes and to tie up with the subframe.








Just one bend was out slightly not quite a show stopper, but that was soon remedied with widening the bolt hole.



The next was to do some drilling of the rear diff, The apertures existed, they were just not wide enough or threaded for bolts.

Steady hands and a depth gauge on the drill was needed.




With the apertures drilled it was then time for some tapping, another slow and steady job needed to do this.





I then had the lovely job of choosing the correct bolts for the job. The aperture on the diff had a 8mm drop above the freshly tapped thread and as luck would have it I found just the bolts to do the job.





A wee bit of alteration to the bolts was need before fitting, to make certain they would fit perfectly.

so quick retap





and then cut to size


before and after

 

tacked the metal work together


1st bit






2nd Bit







3rd bit







and the inner bracket and braces





The last piece of metal to be be cut





some light scoring to help with bending






on to the welding, I had a wee bit of splatter to contend with but it welded up fine.





I put a bead all along the inside as well




The I reinforced every corner and angle, to be sure



cleaned up

 

After a strip wash and dry I got the zinc phosphate primer out and cave the frame a few coats







After my lunch and a trip to halfords

I started to apply some coats of paint.















Last job for today was to give it a test fit and to mark out the markings for the rear bracket.





The bracket has now been marked cut and installed so now I can get the haldex diff installed on the car

 

Very nice, good job!

 

top work

 

custom fabrication at its best. You have some skills mate. Cant get enough of this thread!

 

Great modding skills there

 

Cheers Guy's

 

Only a little bit done this weekend, slow and steady wins the race


The trailing arms were the first to be stripped down, The hubs were unfortunately uncompatable with the driveshafts for the haldex so they had to be stripped out.




next up was to find some suitable hubs to match the driveshafts. After a quick look in the parts bin, I dug out a couple of VR6 front hubs that matched the driveshaft splines. I could have used the hubs out of the TT trailing arms but I'll probably make a few quid out of those.





I then set about stripping them out and removing the bearings





TT driveshafts fit VR6 Front Hubs




But like everything else, its not as easy as just fitting them, the inner diameter of the hub face where it slots into the bearing is larger than the original it will be replacing so I'm going to have to make a trip to the machine shop to sort it out,

about 1.5mm needs to come off

 

Updated Car Spec 15/04/08

Yet more compromises have been made so many of the original parts purchase have not been required. Its quite a list.

Engine Management has stayed the same with the addition of a wideband kit:

Management:
Megasquirt V3 ECU
Relay Board
Wiring Harness
EDIS System
- Coil Pack
- Ignition Module
- VR sensor
- 5.75" Trigger Wheel
Innovate Wideband Kit

Engine and Turbo system remain the same

Turbo System:
Injectors, Saab, 2.3 Turbo 29Ibs
turbo K04-023
K04 Manifold
1.8T Manifold adaptor
Passat 1.8T,Fuel Rail
Homemade 16VT Inlet Manifold
Bailey Dump valve
Silicone Hoses (loads)
Turbo oil & water feed hoses
Audi Intercooler

Engine & Cooling
ABK 2Li Block
2E Slotted & Skimmed Pistons
Balance rods and new bolts
Balanced intermediate shaft and gear
1 x 6a/9a Head Gaskets
Vag oil Pump
Bottom end Gasket Set
Full Baring Set
Big End Baring Set
Crank plate and seal G/E
Modified Exhaust Cam
Ported Head (Home Made)
Race Vernier
7a Throttle Body
Exhaust Adaptor
Custom water Flange
Mocol 13 Row Oil cooler,
stainless hoses and sandwich plate
Toledo Radiator
twin fan setup


The drive has been the biggest change, most of the rallye and G60 stuff that I bought is not going to be used for this due to going direct to Haldex, so Ive made quite a few costly mistake, "development costs", sounds better that way.


Drive Train
O2m TT 6spd Gearbox
Mk4 raised Shifter
Lightened Flywheel, Clutch VR6 228mm
Concentric Clutch Joined to 02a master cylinder
TT Haldex Diff

Front
Mk3 rebuilt subframe & VR6 Hubs
Uprated Roll bars
Standard Bushes
A3 Drive Shafts

Rear
Rally Subframe & trailing Arms with home made Haldex Diff mount
Modified VR6 Front hubs converted to rear hubs
TT Driveshafts

Chassis
Chassis Engine Mounts
GAZ Gold Coilovers
350lbs Front springs
300lbs Rear springs
Brakes fronts 288 / 312mm
Rear TT set-up
Passat G60 Pedal Box
Passat G60 Brake Servo
23mm Master Cylinder
Braided Lines
Internal Brake lines & valve

Internal
Corbeau Forza x 2
Race Harnesses x 2
Tubular Seat rails
OMP Rollcage With additional bars
Tie Plates to A & B Pillars
Harness Bar
Lightened & plated doors
Sunroof Removal
Custom Dash
Momo Steering Wheel and Boss
Plexi Glass