As far as i can see, all the connectors seem ok, and the hoses are too. Drawing a bit of a blank on this one!!!
Well not getting very far here... Have spent some more time checking wires/hoses etc with no avail. Have tried the HT leads in various combinations, again, no result. A couple more things i've just thought... There's another post about someone's injectors not spraying, i figured that maybe my injectors aren't working?? Thought i'd just unbolt the injector rail and stick it over a bucket or something and try starting? Also, if the ISV was screwed, would this stop the engine starting? Would it be worth getting some carb cleaner on the job or maybe even a new ISV? Any more idea would be very welcome!
I think the vac hose runs somewhere else, round the back? I'll check on my spare ABF inlet later. IIRC those 2 connections on the top of the t-body we blanked off on my mates car... So can you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds on the 1st turn of the key, or is it running continuously? faulty isv would still allow the car to fire, would only make it run badly.
ok, check your plugs have the right colour wires: Ignition Coil-Ign amplifier 1: brn - earth 2: grn/red - ecu pin 8 3: blk - ign live Data link connector grn/wt - ecu pin 43 Dash connections (ignore?) 26: vi/wht - ecu pin 51 10: grn/wht - ecu pin 22 Vehicle speed sensor (ignore?) blue/wht - ecu pin 35 ISV 1: blk - ign live 2: wht - ecu pin 27 Evap canister purge valve 1: grn/yel - ecu pin 31 2: blk - ign live Crankcase breather heater 1: brn - earth 2: blk - ign live Heated lambda probe 1: ? - Lambda sensor heater relay pin 8 2: brn/blk - earth 3: red - ecu pin 42 4: grn - ecu pin 20 Knock sensor 1 1: wht - ecu pin 34 2: yel - ecu pin 32 3: blk - ecu pin 10 Knock sensor 2 1: blu - ecu pin 57 2: grn - ecu pin 56 3: blk - ecu pin 55 Throttle position sensor 1: red/wht - ecu pin 41 2: red/blu - ecu pin 40 3: brn/wht - earth Camshaft position sensor (hall sensor on dizzy) 1: brn/wht - earth 2: red/blk - ecu pin 45 3: blue/grn - ecu pin 44 Intake air temp sensor 1: wht/yel - ecu pin 36 2: brn/blu - earth Crankshaft position sensor-Engine speed sensor 1: red/yel - ecu pin 68 2: grn/blk - ecu pin 67 3: brn/blu - earth Coolant temp sensor 1: brn/blu - ecu pin 14 2: brn/wht - earth Closed throttle switch 1: grn/yel - ecu pin 21 2: brn/wht - earth
Hi... sounds like you're having some fun and games.... I haven't re-read the whole thread, so apologies if some of these are repeats, but here are some things I'd check if I was in your situation. - If you've had the cambelt off, double check the cam timing. - If you've had the ignition leads off, then you need to check the firing order - note that a 16v dizzy runs anti-clockwise, whereas an 8v runs clockwise. - Take the dizzy cap off and check that the rotor arm turns when you crank the engine over. - If it still won't start, then start looking at ignition timing - I'd normally do this by moving the dizzy around a little bit while someone turns the engine over... there isn't a huge range of adjustment on an ABF dizzy though. Checking that the injectors are firing would be a good idea too, but you should be able to tell by turning it over with the plugs out - it'll smell of fuel. That might be a good idea anyway, to blow out any excess fuel and give it a chance of starting.
or they might have these colours: Ignition Coil-Ign amplifier 1: brn - earth 2: red - ecu pin 8 3: blk - ign live Data link connector blk - ecu pin 43 Dash pannel (ignore?) 26: vi/wht - ecu pin 51 10: grn/blk - ecu pin 22 Vehicle speed sensor (ignore?) blu/wht - ecu pin 35 ISV 1: blk - ign live 2: wht - ecu pin 27 Evap canister purge valve (ignore) 1: grn/yel - ecu pin 31 2: blk - ign live Crankcase breather heater 1: brn - earth 2: blk - ign live Heated lambda probe 1: ? - Lambda sensor heater relay pin 8 2: brn/blk - earth 3: yel - ecu pin 42 4: blk - ecu pin 20 Knock sensor 1 1: yel - ecu pin 34 2: wht - ecu pin 32 3: wht/blk - ecu pin 10 Knock sensor 2 1: gry - ecu pin 57 2: blu - ecu pin 56 3: blk - ecu pin 55 Throttle position sensor 1: red/wht - ecu pin 41 2: red/blu - ecu pin 40 3: brn/wht - earth Camshaft position sensor (hall sensor on dizzy?) 1: brn/wht - earth 2: red/blk - ecu pin 45 3: blu/grn - ecu pin 44 Intake air temp sensor 1: wht/yel - ecu pin 36 2: brn/blu - earth Crankshaft position sensor-Engine speed sensor 1: red/yel - ecu pin 68 2: grn/blk - ecu pin 67 3: brn/blu - earth Coolant temp sensor 1: brn/blu - ecu pin 14 2: brn/wht - earth Closed throttle switch 1: brn/yel - ecu pin 21 2: brn/wht - earth
Well the saga continues.... First of all, thanks for all the replies and help guys, it's much appreciated! Jonny, thanks for the connector wires reply! Well i had a quick tinker today... Looks like the injectors are working just fine.. Thought i'd double check the spark plugs again, so had them all out connected to the HTs and all were sparking fine! I did however notice a massive difference in the noise the engine made when you try to start it with no spark plugs. WIthout the plugs, it didn't sound like it was ever going to start, no movement in the engine and a reletively quiet noise. With the plugs in, it's a lot louder and you can hear the noise coming out of the exhaust. Basically it sounds like it is exploding the fuel in the cylinders, but just not starting. So i think it must be the wires....? OR the timing....? What's ur money on? Anyway, so on the first post i photo'd a load of wires. Well i still haven't got a clue where any of these go as there are no more connectors on the engine... Out of these connectors, which if any would stop the engine from starting? If anyone also knows the rough location of the plug on the engine, that would also be useful! Link to the first post Also as requested, a bird's eye photo of my bay! Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom..!
Just another quick thought, could it be possible that i've just flooded the engine with fuel? I don't know much about this kind of thing but have heard it mentioned before. How would you go about draining the fuel out of the engine?
Crank it over with the plugs out and the fuel pump off. Or, do it the manly way and take the plugs out and hold a lit match or lighter over the hole. It's much more fun.
non of those plugs look like anything you need to worry about, except the lambda plug, but it definitly wont stop the engine from starting if not connected, my mate ran his vr6 for a couple of weeks with it disconnected no problem.
Well how stupid do i feel now!!!! I have drained the fuel (i actually used the method of removing the fuel inlet pipe and starting the engine so that it would automatically drain any excess fuel, and the spark plugs would take care of the rest! Well straight away it almost fired into life..... Well for about half a second and then cut out again. It's now pretty much starting, but won't idle, just cuts out. Tried a couple of times and got a very loud backfire, so decided i'd stop for the night before my neighbours come and push the car on top of me!! Just wanted to check the HT lead setup... This is how my mate's mk3 16v is plugged in: And this is how mine was originally: The car seemed slightly happier as the first of those two, on the second didn't really want to start at all... What is the correct setup for the ht leads?
Yes as I said, find TDC, plug #1 into where the rotor arm is pointing then plug the leads in order 1-3-4-2 anti-clockwise. you had the leads wrong way round initially Now if the car fires for a few seconds and cuts out this is a symptom of the built in immobilisor kicking in, what year was the car? if 96 or later did it come with an immobilisor box, transponder ring, and the original key?
It's actually a non-immobilised '94 engine, so nothing to do with that. I just read a post from another member talking about that you need to change the valves on the pipework from the brake servo.... He says that the valves from the 8v are different. So i'm guessing that i might need to go and nick the ones off a mk3 gti... Which picture are you talking about? The setup that i originally had, or my mates one? Are all of them slightly different then and #1 will plug into a different hole on the dizzy depending on the car??
nah the servo pipework is fine as long asd you can connect it up, low fluid wont matter either. like I've said twice now turn the engine over to TDC, then put spark plug lead #1 to the terminal the rotor arm is pointing at. then fit the remaining leads in order 1 3 4 2 anti-clockwise. Picture 1 is correct, in picture 2 you can see you have the leads in order 1 4 3 2 anti-clockwise, so definitly wrong! If you cant be bothered to turn the engine over to TDC, just swap all the leads round 1 terminal at a time till you get it right, they'll only go on 1 of 4 ways, just make sure the order is always 1 3 4 2 anti clockwise!
