Forged 06A 1.8T Engine Build Pictorial Guide, (Now Mapped for running in :) )

Over next few days i shall create a thread about forged 1.8t engine build with 100+ pictures which should hopefully help others who are about to undertake same task

Spec below

Low mileage Bam Block ,Honed bores
Forged Oem crank with Pegged crank cambelt pulley
Fluidampr Crank Damper Pulley
Gates racing Kevlar Cambelt
IE Steel rods with riffle drilling
Acl coated race bearings
JE Pistons
Large port head, ported polished flow matched by a retired engine builder who now does heads for Rosten Performance, 1st class
Full ValveTrain Inconel valves, dual springs, Titanium retainers
Standard cams(Schricks to fit once engine run in)
Arp Head, Rods, Crank/Camshaft Pulleys Bolts
Baffled ally sump

Will run

Garrett GT3076R
Tubular Exhaust Manifold
Tial 44mm Wastegate
Tial 50mm Bov
ProAlloy I/C
Mocal oil cooler with thermostatic sandwich plate
830cc Injectors
RMR Billet Inlet manifold
Nira Motorsport I3+ Management
NGK Irridium Spark Plugs
Hitachi Coilpacks
All new Gaskets, Seals etc


During the build Bearings clearances are plastigauged, Piston rings were Gapped etc etc


Lots of parts ready to fit






Finished engine as it is now but full pictorial guide to follow






And yes i have built it in my dining room as i deemed it cleaner then my dusty garagelol

 

U sir are a star starting mine weekend, like to c and hear experiences of gapping rings? What did u gap to 16/18/16? bare block now ready for ie rods/forged pistons/etc and am a little pensive gapping rings as never done that before

 

My engine will run quite a bit of boost and maybe squirt of nos so i have gapped mine at 18/20/16 as there will be quite high temperatures in there and cylinder pressure

Patience is the key and be carefull when grinding to achieve parallel ends so they will close prperly and only grind one side so you have other one thats perfect to check against

Do not use power tools just use thin cutting disk and spin it by hand against the ring side face inwards and make sure sides are not sharp when inserting it into the bore to check to avoid scratching it

By the way what tool you using to hone the bores with?

Here is a quick pic or two gapping










Il post pictures tmrw of tools i used and will start on this thread properly

 

I'd get divorced if I tried that. lol

 

I have mega forgiving mrs

 

So first thing i have done is strip the block of all bolt ons and give it a thorough clean/degrease and wire brush in places and then etch primed it

After that i have painted it with silver enamel engine paint, gone for silver as i want to be able to spot any fluid leaks easily

Soon after discovered that enamel paint was not solvent proof untill it has been baked for some time at over 200* so i shoved it in my oven and did just that!

Then it was time to hone the bores. After some investigation into what tool is best to use i went for Flex Hone tool with Silicon Carbide abrasive balls in 240 grit

This tool is self centering and abarasive balls are self susspending for even pressure and give real good finish with correct cross hatch pattern but you will need a drill with about 700-750 rpm and also lower speed setting of around 250-300 rpm

Once you have honed bores in clock wise and anti-clock wise direction on higher speed repeat on lower speed

It is important to have the tool spining as you are inserting it and withdrawing it and also should be lubed up with Atf oil

Once its done it will need thorough cleaning with lots of soapy warm water and wipe with lint free cloth

Few pics














It is very important to get correct finish and cross hatch pattern with lines crossing at around 35*-45* to ensure rings will bed in correctly

 

Once the block has been painted, honed, thoroughly cleaned it can go on a stand so rebuild can begin

First thing to fit is under piston oil squirters

I had 2 sets Agu ones and Bam ones which were different so i went with Agu ones








Then on to installing main crank shells genuine Vag ones

Assembly lube i have used is Redline new product which seems very good indeed and is obviously very important to prevent any damage to surfaces untill engine oil pressure has built up in initial start up

Make sure all surfaces are lubed up prior to install













Pay attention not to mix up mains caps





I have decided to peg my crank cambelt pulley due to running uprated valve springs coupled with kevlar cambelt which is 5 times stronger and also crank and cam pulley are both clamped by Arp bolts





Also make sure to use brand new mains caps bolts as they are strech bolts. Either genuine vag or uprated Arp studs up to you. I have gone with Oem as i know of 2 engines running 600+ bhp without issues





Crank dropped in and torqued up, pls excuse poor phone picture

 

Next stop is installing rods and pistons

This is quite time consuming and labourious stage as well as quite fiddly at times due to piston rings gapping procedure, rings to pistons assembly, wrist pins circlips etc etc

But very important to get it right and avoid possible rings failure/breaking ruining your fresh bottom end!


IE rods with riffle drilling to improve wrist pin lubrication as engine will see sustained high revs
JE pistons 8.5-1 cr









Once i have gapped all the rings i have kept them in respective order and also have marked all coressponding parts pistons, rods, wrist pins etc to make sure it all goes together where it should










Piston rings compressor and expander install tool pictured








Take care when inserting pistons not to damage rings or bores





I have plastigauged my rod bearings clearances just for piece of mind











Then caps were torqued up using arp lube, must do the bolts up and undo 3 times to achive correct torque








All pistons in, look amasing

 

Wow makes me want to get my credit card out and buy all the parts for my build.

 

Oil pump chain and tensioner installed followed by oil pump and Crank seals using Dirco sealant to prevent any oil leaks















Apply sealant carefully so not to overspill to much inside, i think this is acceptable

 

Go for it!

Expensive do thats for sure but i hardly go out anymore now im an old fart so what the hell ey, its very satisfying putting it together

 

Cylinder head next

Dont have any pics during assembly but here is few of the head fully assembled ready to bolt on

Standard cams in there at the moment as i want to run the engine in first in my standard Agu A3

Once engine has 1000 miles on it Schrick cams will go in together with GT3076R and lots of boost!


























A very big torque wrench mada bolting the head up and torquing the Arp bolts an easy job as they are tight!











Follewd by Fluidampr Crank pulley, water pump, Tensioner etc then timing up the Cambelt

 

How come u stuck with oem tensioner and not gone manual

 

Looking great Sam! Is that the 3076 I got / had? Fluidampr :drool:

 

Great stuff Sam!!

 

Never had issue with one but am aware they can fail however still enough tension to prevent belt slipping so should be right

 

Yea thats the one Chris, soon to be boosting its t i t s off! Dampr is a quality item for sure and hopefully will help

 

Cheers Eddie, hopefully a good one and should make decent power reliably

 

Sump is in for baffles to be welded then the build is complete and should be fitted this coming month



Diy baffles just want tacking in







As it is now awaiting its temporary home for running in

 

Sounds like good stuff Sam.

By the I know where there is a good AX53B Huffer...