yeah you be sorted once you get a gauge on there...set it 48 when warm as a base figure then more pressure = leaner so just keep driving and tweaking until the a/f is near to 13.5 mine wasnt spot on all the way to red line but near enough
Pirtek have dicked me around a bit - I was expecting to pick up a gauge today, but the bloke didn't order the stuff in the end - he didn't have my phone number either so he couldn't call me to tell me. Anyhoo, I started messing with it by trial and error. The first thing to note was that where the enrichment tube on the side of the WUR goes into the bigger tube coming off the idle valve and manifold, the barbed section that fitted into the bigger tube was way loose. I stuck a jubilee clip on there, and that stopped what I reckon was an air leak which was stopping it enriching. I turned the WUR another turn clockwise (now plus two turns in total) - this made the car run LEANER. So I turned it back 2 1/2 turns (so now minus 1/2 turn from original), and now you can see that when I accelerate, I get enrichment to about 13.5:1. I am going to give another half turn anticlockwise to make minus 1 turns in total, and I think it should be spot on. Can anyone give a definitive answer please on correct AFR for idle, part-throttle cruising and also acceleration? Thanks for everyones help - almost there with it!
not sure on the ideal a/f ratio to be honest....13.5 isnt too bad i know that i checked mine over yesterday...system pressure 76psi, wur at 39 psi and 13:1 at idle gives me 13.5:1 when pulling hard and around 14-14.5:1 when cruising mines crap when cold so somethings wrong there
I think maybe your idle is too rich - mine is currently set at about 14.5:1 (when hot), and it seems to cold idle fine.
14.5:1 at hot idle?? id set mine to 13 which is sposed to be 2% c/o can you take your a/f ratio for me from a cold start ?? say from start up for 3 mins or so edit heres some info..dont look like im too far outhttp://toyotaperformance.com/af_metering.htm
Hi Pigbladder, I have no idea what it is supposed to be; I just thought 14.5:1 sounded quite safe . After I have logged it all for you I will change it to 13.0:1 to see. I want to give my WUR another half turn anticlockwise to give more enrichment on acceleration - Quasar said in an earlier post I should be aiming for acceleration enrichment in the order of 12-13:1. The engine should be cool now, so I will go outside and measure my startup afr. I have an innovate motorsports wideband lambda on there, so I suggest you: 1. go to www.innovatemotorsports.com and from the downloads section, download logworks2 (that is the logging software, free download!), 2. send me a p/m with your email address in, I can then email you the datalog from cold start and you can load it in and look at it as afr against time. You can then see what's what going on with my engine. Cheers!
cant make much sense out of them graphs to be honest if you could just note a few readings from cold idle and roughly how warm the weather is thatd be helpfull...when you get the gauge working maybe a cold pressure reading too i just googled it and found best perfomace will be found between 12-13.2:1 and cruise should be closer to 14.7:1 you says yours in 14.5:1 at idle...thats really lean on a gastester...i compared mine on a mot tester, theres a chart on the net somewhere comparing c/o values with a/f
OK no problem, will take a few readings for you. Seeing as I can get the afr how I want it by tweaking and checking the wideband, should i bother actually getting the pressure gauge? Also, shall I richen up and then take readings, or shall i take the readings then change to 13.0:1 hot idle and my -1/2 turn on the WUR?
youd be best to get the gauge really...the book says warm wur should be between 49-55psi..not sure what happens when its outside of that...and you need to be sure your system pressure is in spec( 68-78psi) as for readings for me..if you recon yours is perfect on cold start up , then take em as it is please...do you have any hunting or kangeroo issues when driving away from a cold start?
Well my girlfriend is the usual driver of the car, and she has just passed her test not long ago, so it is hard to tell whether it is her driving or the car!!! I will reset it to 13.0:1 if that is what it is SUPPOSED to be, and I will keep an eye on it. If all is well, I will take some readings for you. If not, I will set it back to 14.5:1 and then take the readings.
Hmm....potential bad news. I went outside to start the car from cold, and it wouldn't fire. I then took off the wur (last thing i adjusted) and wound it back in 2 turns. I eventually got the car started. Once it started, I wound it back out by those two turns, and the car drove excellently. Now I am worried that the car will not cold start. If this is the case, what could be the culprit? It was 10 celcius outside.
I pulled the 1st injector by accident and started the car - it sprays in a cone, but not much because it was only idling. I then pulled the 5th injector and started the car - it really did spray loads. When you crank the car, the injector gets about 10 volts at the terminals of the blue connector. So now it appears that by adjusting my WUR to richen the car up when cruising/accelerating, I have created a situation where the WUR floods the engine when cold starting. (I have proven this by starting the car from cold by unplugging the power to the 5th injector). What the feck could this be? The only things I have not done are service the car e.g. change cap/rotor/plugs (bearing in mind that since i bought the car it has only been driven 4k miles, and the oil was clean when i bought it). Nor have I changed the fuel filter. Last thing, is I haven't pinned out the plug that goes into the WUR. 1. Where is the fuel filter located?) 2. How much fuel should spray from injectors 1-4 when the car is idling? 3. Could my WUR just be fubar, and does using a pressure gauge prove whether it is shagged or not? When they do go wonky, can the bit that does acceleration enrichment go bad? 4. Are resistance/voltage values for the leccy connector that goes onto the WUR listed in the Haynes? 5. When I pulled injector 1, there was a bit of crap on the top of the o-ring, almost like tiny tiny bits of grit/gravel?!?! I don't think it was interfering with the seal. Will I damage anything if I pull the other injectors and the stuff falls into the chambers? Thanks for everyone's help!
thats why you need the gauge...lowering the warm pressure has also lowered the cold pressure it might be a dud system pressure casuing it did you take any readings for me
Sorry mate, I didn't take any readings because after I had lowered the pressure, I had to eat my words bigstyle because the car wouldn't cold start AT ALL. I didn't see the point in taking readings if the car was set up so badly that it wouldn't start.
yeah makes sense....if you do get any sense please pm em to me id suggest tweaking it a bit each morning till it starts ok...fuel pressure is sposed to 16 ish at 50 deg f
I'm just bumping myself so that everyone sees my questions rather than the questions between Pigbladder and myself.
okay i can answer some of your questions... the gauge should prove your wur is good/faulty...you need to start at low pressure and have it raise as the engine warms....test for continuity on the plug, its a heating strip stuff falling into the engine...not ideal , but shouldnt hurt it...try new inj seals fuel filter is under car close to n/s/r wheel i can probably look up how fuel should flow, but i feel with a guage and a/f meter you will fix it...theres a fuel inj book by ben watson, it explains it all
I have given the WUR 1.5 turns clockwise and the car runs quite well now. I need to tweak it a smidge clockwise further to improve cold start. Apart from that, it runs quite nicely. When I have the cold start down nicely I will take some readings for you pigbladder. Have spoken to someone who is a guru on fuelling, and he tells me that I should run stoich when cruising (14.6:1 at part throttle), and idle of between 13:1 and 14.6:1 depending on what makes the engine sound happiest, i.e. there is no right or wrong answer if the car drives nicely from cold idling (and sounds happy). The acceleration enrichment means that as you jab the gas pedal, you get a SPIKE of enrichment. I had mine set up so when I accelerated it was constantly rich, which is wrong. As you accelerate, after enrichment, you should get back to stoich. I reckon just 1/4 of a tweak clockwise will do the trick, when i was fiddling before i got the car to achieve 37mpg on the mfa, so that is what I am aiming for.
mate in all fairness this post is repetitive. get a gauge, do it once and do it right. Make sure you're getting a healthy 5 bar into the metering head and set your warm up regulator to 48psi at warm. You can then fiddle about with your afr meter to get the right mixture through the rev range. which should be approximately be 2.0% CO at idle, but seen as you have the AFR thingy then you can test this yourself. You can also check your WUR is working if the pressure rises from cold. you cannot check this without the gauge.
