Its not something Id recommend but with a proper brake flexi clamp (not a pair of mole grips) I think it would be ok done carefully. .
Had one with a MC fault where the only way you could get a good pedal was to pressure bleed it, old res cap with a hose connector in it and aprox 5-8psi up the air line. Do you know how they fill them at the factory????? Done in seconds
I couldnt get the pedals right on my old 8v, but someone had adjusted the throttle pedal so it didnt hit the bottom stop at the same time as WOT was reached. I sorted that out and the pedal came right for h/t. just a thort.
We've got a pressure bleeder at work,I used it to change the fluid, but then bled it 'the old fashion way'
I bleed mine with the faithful "Eezibleed" - but with the top screwed onto a gallon of fluid instead of the stupid bottle they give you...... Never had any excess travel problems like you describe, sounds like the pushrod is too short (without being arsed to read the whole thread). You can clamp braided hoses fine, with a proper clamp or a pair of mole grips with sockets over the jaws.
i never really knew what the point of heal and toe was, now i know its the exact same thing i do on my r1 and dirtbike, its a lot easier to do with your hands sounds great too. oh well im going to see if my mk2 is up to it tonight
I've never managed to master heel and toe at all, how the f8ck do you press the accelera tor when your foot is down there o the brake pedal? I can't even do it with the car stationary, let alone whilst braking hard into a corner! do you need big feet for this or what?
Surely not, You bring the engine up to speed so you that the braking is with the brakes, not the motor. I went on a visit to Hethel and was taken out by two testers in Elises, they said that with a light Mid engined car you want the engine speed to match the gearbox speed, or you risk spinning if you're pushing it/its wet. When they H&T ed, as they released the clutch the engine speed was similiar or higher than the gbox speed, no engine braking.
That's what I thought phat, I am fully ready to admit I don't really know sh1t about track driving but I am sure that H&T avoids engine braking. But then as I said, could be wrong....
It does. that's what it's for. It's so the engine doesn't add more braking, thats the whole point of bringing the revs up, so when you let the clutch out the engine is at the right speed. otherwise, the engine will be idling, and when yo engage the clutch, the action of the slow engine engaging with the fast gearbox causes the front of the car to dip which could upset the handling. well, in theory. never had a problem with it myself, and I never bother to double de-clucth or left foot brake, or heel and toe. I just make a mess when ever I do it, an do really jerky braking. I need to go one one of those race driving days.
I could sort of do it in my clio but the pedals in the golf are at diff heights and it's hard I was practising in the golf and when i pushed the brake pedal off centre the pedal rubber slipped off, seems like it had been held on by goodwill alone. Gave me the willys I can tell you.
well i know that on my bike it stops the jerking from the engine which can cause the back end to step out. if you coming into a roundabout fast with rear wheel drive (speaking from a bike rider point of view) and you dump it down a gear the back can step. but blipping the throttle it makes the engine change down smoothly and the back doesnt twitch or step out. so maybe its more for rear wheel drive cars?
i know what i mean, but i can't think of a way to explain it accuratly. lets just say that a formula first car stops a hell of a lot quicker with h&t than without it.
