HELP PLEASE - I'd like a VAG M12 x 1.75 x 20 hex + captive washers - DO THEY EXIST?

I have been looking at the VAG 3379 rear shock tool.
My present stuff is fine for MK2s, but won't fit into the bore of MK4 top mounts.

In real terms VAG 3379 is a 17mm diesel injector socket. I have looked at lots of websites that sell them but most are cheap and nasty: Laser, Sealey, etc..

This Snap-On one is by far the prettiest, but I don't do Snap-On as the only Snap-On tool I ever bought, back in 1971, snapped (they should be called Snap-Off) and I dislocated my right thumb. It was fecking excruciatingly painful when I popped it back, and hurt for weeks afterwards. Quite a shock to see your thumb pointing backwards up your arm!

So, it looks like an ebay search for an old school, made in Sheffield, Britool long hex. socket and a lot of grinding!

 

AGAIN - IDIOT ME!

Don't need the special socket as these are 'upside-down' and the threaded top portion is welded to the main tube.

So:
#1 - Torque wrench set to 25Nm from ZERO! (Always unwind your torque wrench after use!)
#2 - Fit 17mm single-hex socket. Britool old school of course!
#3 - Hand torque wrench to boss.
#4 - Grip the tube tightly in one's tiny frozen hands.
#5 - Boss swings the wrench.

Job's a good 'un!

 

Not quite what we expected!
BUT. Better.
Almost as good as the AUDI CV bolt below.
Note: Hardened Washer.



Modified to do the job.
SACHS say 35 Nm which makes sense. Sort of M8 level as opposed to M12.

 

Very Good .

 

No locking nut on the rear adjuster!

Just getting everything ready for tomorrow.

I did not manage to sort out shims, no suitable plastic or SS. So, lots 'o 'Off-Shore'.
I turned the spring against the seat by recon. the edge of the spring will scrape the anodising off the seat!

WHY NO LOCKING NUT?

I assume that as the spring is always under load, even when one 'Yumps', that the the pressure is enough to stop the nut rotating!?

But the front has a lock nut and that is also always under pressure!?

 

No lock nut on the rear adjusters as there are no turning forces involved, unlike the fronts.

Use a plastic lid from a food container(eg ice cream tub) and cut out some plastic shims to go between the spring and spring seat. Works fine.

 

Ta , thought of plastic lids, used them before for cutting washers. But fancied something harder.

Vibrations can also loosen threads! Lots lock nuts on none rotating bolts.

 

Just use the thickest lid material you can find, or two shims, it works ok. The end of the spring will dig in but the plastic shim, plus some lube will allow the spring to turn for height adjustment. You'll probably only do that once though.

The vibrations won't affect the rear spring adjusters, the spring is under enough tension to make it ok. That is assuming of course you set the ride height as per Sachs recommendations.

I've had a set of these coilovers on my Mk4 Golf and had no problems with assembly, not even the rear spring seat retaining bolt.

Just make sure you follow the instructions carefully about adjusting the damping. I had a problem with one damper, was a few years ago though, so they might have modified it by now.

Also consider that these coilovers are made for a few different engine/front axle weight options, so start with damping set about 12 clicks from full hard. My car was a 1.8T with 5 speed box, anything below 12 clicks from hard was too bouncy.

 

Ta so.

 

No problem.

I think you will enjoy them, firm but compliant.

 

I shall not post on this thread again. All related issues will be covered here:

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?278882-Mk4-GTI-Anni-Design-Faults-Living-with-it!

I can't be bothered to correct some points I made on here which were obviously misread judging from some replies.

Or why I prefer one thing to another cos. again my words are misread!

Obviously my fault for not writing more clearly.