Super spiffing. I don't know about re-learning the map? Maybe because it's been running so badly and the ECU has started controlling parts that have not been working properly for a while it just took a while to sort of clear it out
Well as happens with my Supra - when you remove the power to the ECU, the it loses the engine map, and has to 're-learn' it from the base map they're programmed with. Takes 5/10 mins on the supra - and the first time you try and start it from having the fuse pulled out and then put back in, it wont even idle! The second attempt and they fire up first time. Hell i've had my supra parked up for 3 months collecting dust and it fired first time the other day, didnt even have a flat battery I could probably do with taking this to someone with VAG-COM and having them check for and clear any codes, but for the moment i'm just happy i'm not dicing with death and can ACTUALLY DRIVE IT! Having one car off road was bad enough, but to have both of them crap out was annoying!
Sure there're plenty of people on here around your area who will happily scan your car for you for a little bit of beer money mate
Beer money is the problem right now - relying on donated cans of strongbow - the supra's costing me ! New pistons, bearings, thrust washers, gasket set, coolant hoses, rebore & hone, crank polish, head & block skimmed and decked, painted, things polished, new Camshaft position sensor, new 3000 pipe etc - its a small fortune!
so whats the issues on the mk3 now? most stuff can be fixed just by relying on the guys on here oh, i had my fuse box down the other day, one relay was getting pretty warm when the engine was running. is that normal?
I have two Mk3's - ones a Toyota Supra Mk3, the other is this damned golf No other issues really, other than a glove box who's handle has been ripped off in the past, and now i need to replace it, and a little un-pimping work needs to be done, like installing the Airbag steering wheel and binning the ****ty momo one, same for the momo gearknob and handbrake - bin! All stock OEM for me please
i had a similar problem on my brother in laws 16v, turned out to be the coil pack breaking down. started off by cutting out then missing and stalling (mostly when slowing) it kept loosing the spark from the coil. does it have fuel/spark when it dies?
Turns out that the ECU relay didnt fix it afterall, it was just faking being okay :/ Nearly got introduced to some more road fixtures this evening, and it was doing it more than ever. I'm ****ed off with this now - anyone want to give me scrap value for it?
Hi Kai, sorry to hear you're having such bad luck. How much do you want for it? PM me if you like. James.
I'm just annoyed that it could be anything of about a dozen different things - its probably the only car i know thats like this. Other cars its easy - you have a stalling problem, its max of two things, MAYBE 3. On this i'm going to do two more things - new coil and then crank sensor/timing. If its still stalling after those, then sod it, it will DEFINITELY be for sale - cause i cant bloody drive it and i need something reliable....maybe a Ford.
Ugh. Okay - its STILL doing it - and at one point nearly killed me when it stalled the last time - almost ended up in a ditch upside down. I'm getting sick and tired of this b*stard thing....i'm going to replace the coil pack and if that doesnt sort it, how much can i get for it before i'm tempted to set it on fire? I think i'm going back to Supra's after this - sure they have HG and rodknock problems but once fixed they dont do it for another 15 years!
Coil pack done and its still being a pain in the ****.....someone suggested the hall sender on the distributor could be at fault as the rev counter goes loopy now and all Any thoughts, gents? And no, i haven't burned it. But what would be the valuation on it with a full SWG Bodykit and a set of FK Angel eyes, a Mongoose Exhaust, new KYB Dampers and new EBC Brakes?
Do some basics - Clean the throttle body (free) Replace the fuel filter (5/10) Fuel Pump Relay (maybe ? ~25 at a VW dealership) Check the HT leads Take the spark plugs out and check them (see if there is any dirt on them and note which cylinder) Fuel Injectors (Clean - with fuel additive) Air Filter (change - cheap !)) Dizzy (check / change)
yeah if the rev counter goes nuts thats a symptrom of a hall sender fault, I'd also change the crank position sensor as well!
Mine turned out to be the hall sender, had crazy rev counter and spluttering/backfiring. I said it was the anti-lag but the lack of a turbo let me down
does the mongoose exhaust have a tubular manifold? ive not read the thread, but you got vagcom? that would tell you if you had a hall sender fault etc
Okay - replaced the HT leads and spark plugs back in June along with a fresh Airfilter to try fix the problem - didnt work. Fuel filter relay and ECU relay - i'm confused as to which one this is - i was led to believe the #30 relay was the ECU relay (which the original tested fine with a multimeter, but was replaced anyway). Fuel filter - if i get a new fuel filter, where is this located, and will i need new copper washers to go along with it? Where is it located? As for crank position sensor - can this be done with a socket set and torque wrench or is it going to be more involved - ie, taking the gearbox out to get at the flywheel etc... I'm also assuming the distributor is easy to replace - whats the base timing it needs to be set at and whats the procedure? Are all dizzy's the same? Is there a VW equivalent of a TSRM? By that i mean Toyota have factory repair and service manuals for most of their older vehicles like my Supra that are far more in-depth and accurate than a Haynes... Sorry for the amount of questions but its something i'd like to get sorted!
