Hmmm 150 is on the steep side maybe, but it really depends on the condition, and what comes with it. You might be able to flog the head, but there's not a huge demand for them. Manifolds, alternator, cam cover (etc) might be sellable.
150 does sound steep to me too. I managed to pick up a complete 2E for all of zero english pounds, I did completely rebuild it though but new rings are only 35 and big end bearings about the same, all OE parts too (good ol' euro pcar parts). I think theres a bloke on ebay who sells them for about a oner, well there used to be anyway. Anyway, more importantly I've got backlash in my diff and its get on my whammys so how long does it take to change a gearbox with the engine in? and who fancies coming round and helping
Just as I'd actually made a decision to go for a 2 litre 8v I've seen an ABF but without ECU or loom. Is it possible to run an ABF on my existing k-jet & ignition? If it is what is involved?
Strikes me it was just three minutes after, from the time of yous 2.0L block wanted post. Anyways up. I recon. you could run any engine on any fueling sytem. The operative word being 'run'. How well it runs is a different matter. It's probably time for Toytatec's, Danster's and other engine guru's input now?
You could run an ABF on a mix of your current Kjet system, with some bits of the KR Kjet system. You'd need KR manifolds, throttle body, metering head, injector pipes, ECU, Dizzy, ISV and Control Box, WUR and sensors. (I think you might make the 8v fuel lines reach, but they'd not sit in the right place). You'll also need the KR engine loom from a Pre-'90 car. there are probably a few breather pipes you'd need too, to mate from the ABF engine to the Kjet airbox. If you've got the 6-bolt downpipe, you can keep that and your exhaust system, although if you're running a stock 8v exhaust, that might restrict it a bit. I'm pretty sure you could use the existing 8v Kjet fuel pump and supply lines. I've got all that stuff kicking around if you decide to go this route, from a 16v car that I broke, and I could do with clearing some space, so drop me a PM if you decide to go that way and you're interested in the conversion kit. It was all running before I broke the car. The hardest bit of this conversion would be the wiring, as you'd be working in under the dash, and you'd have to take the servo off to get the loom swapped (I think). Ultimately it would give you more power than an 8v, and probably for less money than a 2.0 8v with a cam and modified head. Your insurance might want an engineer's report, but mine (footman james) have never asked for one on all the modded cars I've had.
Thanks Mike. That all sounds as though it belongs in the too much hassle basket. Back to the 2 litre 8v plan methinks
No. The ABF is an EFI engine and would need suitable controls to work. As Mike said you really need head and block, plus a donation of KR parts and this will work. It is not so much as a hassle if you where to obtain all the bits and attach to the engine before commencing with the work. It sounds like a hassle, but much more rewarding ( and cheaper) than a 2.0 8v conversion. This is why we have been encouraging you in this direction based on our experience.
Just to clarify from your wanted post, the 8v engine codes you will be interested in are 2E and AGG, not 2.0E Make sure you uprate your clutch when you go 2L 8v too. A 16v pressure plate is the way forward...
Yay, should be picking up an AGG engine next week, 100. So now I need head gasket (for AGG?) new head bolts, cam belt (AGG engine?) Can someone also clarify the dizzy situation please, if I've got my head round it properly I use my k-jet dizzy with an adaptor ring from TSR? Anything else I've forgotten?
You use your original kjet dizzy with adaptor ring from TSR, plus you need to swap the dizzy drive gear for the larger one from the AGG dizzy. To do this you'll need to drill out the dizzy gear drive pins, swap the gear (fit the adaptor ring at this point), then fit a good quality 4mm roll pin to secure it to the shaft. Half hour's work. (Your original dizzy's advance curve won't be ideal for the new motor, but it'll work. Later on you can have this altered to improve power and fuel economy, by a specialist such as these guys. They quoted me 100 to optimise my kjet dizzy, including recondition.) Head gasket AGG, head bolts AGG, cambelt AGG, but spark plugs to match the original head (EV?). I used AGG plugs on mine and they were way too hot a rating.
Yes, you need the AGG gasket. I think the head bolts are the same, and the AGG cam belt will be longer, so you need that too. Your Kjet dizzy with adaptor ring will be fine, although you'll need to use the drive gear from a 2.0 dizzy (maybe the AGG will come with one?) A 16v Kjet WUR would be good too, to get a bit more fuel in there. You can adjust the 8v ones (I think - via the little plunger on the front), but it's not as easy.
AH! That reminds me of an old Royal Navy ditty. It goes something like this: "Anchors aweigh me lads, anchors aweigh!"
A fast road cam will be a bonus if one turns up, but it must match the head type. IE mechanical or hydraulic tappet. A GS2 is a mechanical tappet cam, GS2H is the hydraulic equivalent. If Gaz's head is original and a 1986 year it will be hydraulic.
Sorry for keeping on but for the dizzy I need- The gear ring thingy from the AGG dizzy and an adaptor ring from TSR. Where do I get this 4mm roll pin thingy from?
If you can't get the old one out with a punch, then Halfords sell boxes of roll pins, or try a VW dealer?
Maybe, but to get my level of power from a 16v you need to spend about 3000. I can build you a mk2 VR6 with 210hp for 1000 Supply me a mk2 CE2 and a donor car and leave the rest to me.
