A well setup 16v is a good bit swifter all out than a good 8v though on a like for like (same cc) basis...A bad valver makes an 8v seem pretty quick though... Poorly setup valvers with incorrect ignition timing and non modded fuelling can be a bit lame in my experience. Timing is all critical and the stock figures don't always work best. A bit of experimentation finds the sweet spot though When I went for a 2L block in my 8v it had more midrange torque for sure, but the head held it back from making much more power as they just don't breathe as standard. Wanted to rev even less than with the stock PB block. More than a bit disappointing for the effort of swapping the block...[:^(] The extra torque managed to make the stock 8v clutch drag in short time too
I'd say 112bhp to 130+bhp is more than slight and TBH I doubt my 8v is even seeing 100bhp anymore[:^(] I'm now seriously going off the ABF idea due to the fact that after reading a few threads I really doubt I will be able to cope with the faffing about with the loom.
Stick a fuel regulator and a boost valve on 8v won't make it top speed higher but it does make it quicker on acculeration . Sorry if my spelling is out.
Boost valves do precisely zero... They just create a vacuum leak so causing over-fuelling for `more power` As Public Enemy said...Don`t Believe the Hype...
I have a 2.0 8v using a 3A block, in terms of usable real world power it is great. Never driven a good valver to compare so cant comment on that.
Order a rubjonny ABF loom, plug and play with full Digi3 management and mk2 coil and TCI unit. Saves trying to bodge a loom together to get a car to run.
Slight difference? bollox! You will need a complete car loom change to fit the ABF engine loom as your car is not a CE2 style. Have a look at this graph. Bog standard 2.0 8v bottom end, head skim and a cam. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1911029&postcount=41 That is on standard digipant and your K jet will be more tweak able so expect the same or better results. Just happens to be the same power as an ABF. The torque curve is very nice too. 8v FTW 16v FTL
I am fookin just about being fookin driven to fookin tourettes with this fookin engine swap fookin saga! M fookin kay! Yeah, I is the "changing man" (welleresque ), and I ain't gonna put up with no more sheeite no more. Life is short so don't waste it trying to convince the masses that the future is 16v. It ain't cos it is pish. Who is gonna fork out for a LSD once they get to 150bhp to be able to put the power down anyway. Not many that's for sure. You could completely negate the need for a 150bhp engine by fitting a gearbox with a lower final drive to optimise the gearing for performance ( bung in a 0.75 for motorway cruising), but that isn't cool or scene, even if it would make more of a difference than fitting an engine with 30 bhp more. You must remember that the laws of physics do not apply once you enter the scene reality. I have folk coming round saying that they need more power and are thinking of fitting a turbo and sheeite. 5mins later with some spark plugs that have not been to the sun and back twice, and the dizzy timing corrected because someone forgot to put the intermediate shaft back in the same place when they did a timing belt, and the car is transformed. I do not work at NASA and this isn't rocket science.
No it is not Danny. It's "Rocket Engineering". They should all read this: Then they'd know we is right. PS. I have found a photo of a 25 valve head for my 90. I really, really, really, want it! The head that is, not the photo. It would go great with my 10 injector, doubled up, Hitachi system!
Snap out of it Daved man! The great 5 valve head, designed so that you cannot run any serious valve overlap without cutting the edge of the piston down to the top piston ring to clear the middle intake valve! The valves do not like being revved with the chance of the heads falling off the stems if you do. You can upgrade of course but 25 x 20 is a little excessive. It pains me to say.........Modern pish! Anyway, by the time you have lapped in all those valves you will be too old to remember what you started doing days before anyway. The 8v of course does not put such constraints on a man's time or wallet. Freeing up cash, and time saved for beer, barbecues and forum banter. It is a win, win, win, win, win when one chooses the superior.........you no what's coming, so it will save me typing it out for you all.
Yes, better still fire up the angle grinder and remove one cylinder. Checkout the maths..... 10v 5 cylinder = 2v per cylinder. So. 5 cylinder - 1 cylinder = How many valves? My work here is done. Oh and have a look at this, and laugh at the wonderment of people taking advice off an odd looking man in his red pyjamas. His 20v comment is superb though! [YOUTUBE]iB-_l2r4pvE[/YOUTUBE]
is there a link to a 16v into a mk1 FAQ? trying to find some info out for someone wanting to finish off a install.
OK so now I'm even more confused than when I first asked the question A 2.0E using my k-jet head looks like the easiest & most cost effective option, I've looked at TSR's website for the dizzy conversion ring & saw the following- Do I need these blanking plates? Nobody has mentioned these before & I can't see any refernce in the 2 litre conversion threads EDIT: Just found reference to them in an another thread Is there any way of mounting a WUR to a 2.0E block other than getting a plate welded to the engine? Is the 2.0E a "tall block"? If it is will this cause any manifold to downpipe fitting problems?
Blanking plates you do not need. You can either connect them in to your existing breather setup or cap them off. A small bracket could easily be fabricated to mount the warmup valve close to it's original position on the block. 2E is a tall block but if you are using the oe downpipe it will not hit the bulkhead. Dizzy ring is ready wrapped and ready to post to you too! It is a shame I do not stay near Bristol, because I probably could have changed your engine for you in the amount of time spent reading and posting on this thread!
