Basic shopping list is: 2E, AGG or ADY ? engine. Dizzy ring Head gasket set for swapping over your head. One thing is that your existing head may have worn guides and be needing a little work over to make the most of the conversion.
Cheers Danster, my head (the car one) may be a little suspect, it belts out smoke at high revs, I'm hoping it's stem seals but prob won't be that lucky.
The guides are susceptible to wear as mileage creeps up. Just changing stem seals is not really the best fix. The valves will move a bit on their seats with the guide wear, reducing compression efficiency. Will not be hard to source a reasonable head though.
what would be a basic overhaul on a solid tappet head? valves guides and seals and a reseat? would like to do mine before 2litre but dont know how to set the shims etc yet
Start yer own thread... Gaz, ABF is the way... pay 200 max for the bits, throw it in in a weekend with beer, and enjoy the power... Or 2E block and a valver head plus a wee turbo, would see you nicely - PS - I have the flanges for a 16v head and a T3 turbo...
I once reconned, that If I was ever fortunate enough to own a Porsche 911, I would just be looking at the engine when I wasn't driving it. I think I would sleep in the garage with it and wake up to one of the three most beautiful views in the world. Mrs d., and the Conor Pass, Dingle, being the other two!
Seriously Gaz - listen to the sense of Chris MC He spent a "noticeable" amount of time and money on making his 2 litre 8v as good as he could. Very decent spec to it and all set up nicely. Unfortunately when compared back to back with 2 litre 16v cars with a few mods - the 8v seemed like a time consuming and expensive way of doing the job. Unless you're taking it racing in a series where 8v puts you in a lower class than 16v there is no reason at all to put an 8v in there. Seriously. However I respect everyone's right to their (incorrect) opinion. So you could put a 2l 8v in. If you do, then don't ever drive someone's 2l 16v mk2. Or you'll realise what you've done.
Cheers Dex. Trouble is that I doubt my budget will stretch to a 2.0 16v (unless someone has one going cheap) I'm still thinking that a 1.8 16v is the easiest & cheapest option with the added bonus that I can add a 2.0l block at a later date
My 2L 8v was more torquey and similar top end power to a strong 1.8 16v. Overall a bit quicker than a valver on the road. I spent a lot of money for that spec though A 2L block with an unworked 8v head will be a dissapointing gain on your setup for the money and effort. Sounds like your head needs new guides and stem seals too. Not exactly cost effective. If you are thinking 16v then it has to be a 2L. Do it once do it right & all that I speak from experience
As above. My 2l 8v gives similar top end and a bit more torque than a 1.8 16v, but cost me nearly 1500 quid with headwork, cam, rebore, pistons etc and a few ancilliaries. It's very easy to get carried away when you start rebuilding things, so getting a complete running motor and just whacking it in would be cheaper in the long run. If I was doing it again I'd go 2l 16v, or TDi.
Well based on the work you have to do on the 8v to get it reliable in your car again, for 500ish I am sure you can get a 2.0 16v with everything. Even less if you hunt around. In a MK2, optimsed STD 8V motors are OK. Mine would make 15% more torque than a KR motor from 2100 to about 3500rpm, But it is all down hill from there. This 2.0 3A engine may be using STD parts but it did take alot to get it to its current state of tune, including changing the engine controls and deliveriing a calbration to bleed 7.6secs to 60 from this engine. On the contrast, a KR engine on K jet when optmised will hit 7.2secs to 60 just by fettling stuff that is already there. 1.8 Digifant ECU on a 2litre conversion is a complete waste of time, interms of moving the ultimate performace of the vehicle forward IMO. Rather than fitting a KR motor the suggestion is to fit a later 2.0 16v as the delta in price and work does not justify resisting a treat to superior performance. And untuned ABF motor with hit 60 in 7.3 secs. Optimised or ECU tuned as low as 6.5secs. And I am not really talking changing gearboxes and the rest yet. Heed the advise of those who said the same. Retire the 8v in the bin, double up der Ventils. ABF 16v for the win .
How about this 1992 VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2.0 GTi 16V 3dr Hatchback Price: 300No offers Features: Manual Green Petrol Hatchback 1984 cc J reg (1992) Full Description: Glossary of Terms 3 Door Hatchback, Petrol, Manual. Golf GTI 8V, J Reg, Green with colour coded bumpers and m3 wingmirrors, funky lights, reconditioned engine, Imobiliser, Alloys, Electric windows and sunroof, central locking/key fob. Tinted windows. This car will need to be taken away on a trailor, there is no tax or mot. The engine is fine but there is an electrical problem and it needs someone that knows about electrics/wiring loom to sort it. Slight damage to o/s/f wing but repairable. The mileage is unknown as there is no power to the dials, but thinking back i`m sure its not much over 100k, plus the engine itself hasn`t done that as it was reconditioned 3 years ago. I`d like to keep this car for myself as its alot of fun to drive but unfortunately i have another car and the misses is moaning she wants the car parking space back!. 300 No offers. more.... ON AUTOTRADER ONLINE. just search for golf under 500 heres the link thingy. its the green one http://search.autotrader.co.uk/es-u...Params=Ne=2+4+5+6+7+8+27+44+49+53+61+64+67+10
If you still have 239mm front brakes on your car at the moment and have not considered having to change them already, you are not driving fast enough to make use of all the existing engines power. Never mind a 150bhp engine be it 8 or 16 valve. Brake upgrade will be a priority to price in as well Gaz.
this is honestly a very slippery slope, most of the recovering dubholics on here will testify to that.
Brakes? PAH, brakes are for wimps Yes I had considered for a 256mm upgrade, thanks for the reminder though
