I want more power UPDATED with progress report

Discussion in '8-valve' started by Gaz37, May 24, 2010.

  1. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Neither.

    An ABF engine, complete, running on Kjet. You'll need some bits from a Mk2 16v to make it work (inlet manifold, injector pipes, metering head and maybe airbox, WUR, dizzy), and maybe some other bits I forgot.
     
  2. 2dubnick Forum Junkie

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    I have a late spec inlet, injectors, pipes, airbox, wur and a metering head shimmed by tsr set up for a 2.0 16v if your interested Gaz?
     
  3. Admin Guest


    thats the problem with chasing that extra bhp out of the 8v.

    If you want something easy to fit and forget the 2l with a cam is great. but don't go any further with it. a lot of money for little gain. P+P head to get 5bhp is 500+

    if you want the bigger bhp out the box, go for the 16v
     
  4. StuMc

    StuMc Moderator and Regional Host - Manchester Moderator

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    I didn`t do it myself, I gave it to Awesome for a bit of a rolling road tune/setup, and Geoff (ex-Dubsport) suggested that rather than just get it set and running properly to factory specs, whilst it was on the rollers he may as well do a couple of tweaks to get the `most` out of it.

    Basically, he started with the fuel pressure reg in the metering head;

    This has a couple of factory fitted shims (0.5mm IIRC) giving 4.5bar delivery pressure.

    3 more shims (again 0.5mm I think) were added giving 5.5bar delivery pressure.

    Then on the rollers the dizzy was advanced to suit the extra fuelling.

    First run (before any work) was 98bhp. Not too bad for a 130k+ 22 year old engine that had 112bhp when new.

    After the tweaks it made 115bhp. I can`t remember the exact torque figures, but I think it was in the region of 110lbft before and 120lbft after.

    The significant part though was the torque ramped up quicker, so off te line the car felt massively different.

    It did loose a bit of poke at the top end however...

    Back-to-back Vmax runs (private test track... ;)) had showed 125mph before and just 115mph after.

    This was all on 98ron Shell V-power, and the only other engine mod being a 2.5" stainless exhaust (three boxes as per factory).
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2010
  5. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

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    Thanks StuMc. I have a K-Jet set up manual, so now understand the raised pressure bit.

    When I have finished re-building the fuel pump/accumulator/filter unit, I will check the pressure.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2010
  6. Gaz37 The Grouch. Paid Member

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    I've been reading the 2litre conversion sticky & it appears that if I want to retain my k-jet I'll need an adaptor for the dizzy and a plate welding onto the block to mount the WUR on, as I can't weld I'm probably going to bin that idea.

    So it's now a choice between a 2 litre 8v using digi, which will mean sourcing an engine complete with the airbox, mfa, ecu, etc or a 1.8 16v for which all I'll need is the block & head assuming that the 8v pump & metering head are compatible.

    I still don't know what to do[:^(]
     
  7. danster Forum Addict

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    Fitting a dizzy ring and fabricating a plate / bracket for the warmup valve to fit the 2.0 8vwill be a whole lot easier than building a hybrid 16v or a 2.0 8v to Digipants.

    Can you spot my subliminal message on what way i think you should go?;)
     
  8. 2dubnick Forum Junkie

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    :thumbup:
     
  9. 2dubnick Forum Junkie

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    Although I still think 8v is a better choice this is also due to the inability to have fun on british roads, if your not getting bounced around from potholes then theres bound to be someone driving uber slow so reving passed 5k is a rarity.

    With my vtec lump I would regualy do a 30mile drive without being able to hit the magic vtec number, and while following my mate in a type r the other night he thought my ikle 8v was fast due to not being able to get away.
     
  10. Admin Guest


    readily available from TSR:thumbup:
    really is a simple swap
     
  11. danster Forum Addict

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    That's three 8vvotes in a row. So in a noughts and crosses way. The 8vhas the win!:thumbup:
    I have a spare dizzy ring too.;)
     
  12. BristolFish

    BristolFish Forum Member

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    Wrong danster, we're playing connect four. ;)
    I say get your bay around an ABF, Gaz. :thumbup:
     
  13. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

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    No, no, no, no! 8v digi if you must! Crossflow even. But, stick with the real engine!
     
  14. danster Forum Addict

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    Gaz, you appear to be a marginally rational entity. On this basis you should have no problem making the correct decision.

    Increased insurance costs if you go with the inferior 16v.

    Ignore the Irish ones quips on Digipants. It is pish, you already have K jet in the car.:thumbup:

    Now will I start packaging up this spare dizzy ring or not?:lol:
     
  15. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    everyone knows 8v's rule!!
     
  16. BristolFish

    BristolFish Forum Member

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    16v, still not connect four danster. :p
     
  17. Gaz37 The Grouch. Paid Member

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    OK, spell it out in nice simple terms, I would like two easy to understand comprehensive "shopping lists" One for a 2.0litre 8v on k-jet and another for a 2.0 liter 8v on Digi.

    Thanks
     
  18. danster Forum Addict

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    You will be good at Connect 4 as you have time to play it before the 16v comes on cam!:lol:

    8v folks only have time to play Naughts and Crosses, due to the quick pickup of their engines.:thumbup:
     
  19. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    as the car is kjet, put your head on top of a 2e block, using a adapter ring for the dizzy and thats it.
     
  20. 8vDUB Forum Member

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    connect 4


    8v all the way
     

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