Evening, whilst working on the caddy today I have come across the immob box and obd port. I havent decided where these are going to be situated yet but I have found that there are connectors on the ends of some of the wires. Ive had a look around the spare connectors on the loom but cant seem to find where they plug into. If its a case that I have to cut off the connectors and solder the wires into the loom thats cool but was hoping that they may just plug in and that be the end of it , wishfull thinking? This is the plug on the obd port, These are the plugs for the immob box, the black plug on the left is for the brake light switch, the green one goes to the fuse box. Not sure on the two brown connectors? As usual I will carry on searching and post any findings if someone dosent beat me to it . Cheers
One connector from the immo box will be going to the reader ring for the chip in the key. Can't help you too much with the others. Although I beleive the k line from the obd plug and k line from the immo box meet somewhere to join with the k line from the ecu... K line is the wire in connector 7 in the obd plug normally.
m1keh - The connector for the tansponder ring isnt pictured as its un-plugged and on the steering coloum so thats sorted . Now you mention it im guessing that the k-line wires probablly do meet at some point, not sure where though? I shall refresh my mind on the obd port wires and then try and find where the k-line wire comes in from the engine bay.
Yellow you can ignore, it is for aircon & airbag (not needed) Brown wires are earths. The brown plug with grey/white wire is used to connect the immob box to the diag port via jumper block, if you dont have jumper block you can splice it straight onto the solid grey wire from the immob box. The other brown socket with grey/white wire plugs into the ecu loom, there should be a brown plug coming from the engine bay through the bulkhead which matches this. Red/white wire is live, there should be another black wire coming off the immob box which is also live, this can be connected at the rear of the fusebox, not sure to which plug though as its going into Mk1. This is what I learnt from rubjonny when doing my MK2, im sure he'll be along to correct any mistakes though!
Willber - Cheers for that mate Its going into a mk1 but im using the whole ce2 fusebox. Just for records sake: yellow - remove (grey plug) grey/white - join to solid grey from immob box?? (brown plug) grey/white - join to solid grey from immob box (brown socket) grey/white - find brown plug from bulkhead red/white - +ve, join to suitable ign on live Im pritty sure that the black wire you mention is the black connector that is near the big green fusebox connector, this plugs into the single connectors on the back of the fusebox. Thanks again
Had a quick check in the cab and found the brown plug which goes onto the brown connector. It makes alot more sense now Cheers again
You have three grey/white wires at the moment, you can bin the one with the 2-pin plug and yellow wire on if you want, you may as well if your chopping out the yellow wire to save confusion. The remaining grey/white wires - socket one goes to ECU @ bulkhead as you have found. The plug one goes to join the diag port and immob box together, in factory installation this is done via a jumper block above the fusebox, however if you do not have this you can splice it to the solid grey wire instead. red/white is ignition live as you said, can connect to cigarette lighter. The other black is a live feed also, if it connects up how you have it now then leave it as is, no need to change. There should be a black wire with a ring terminal coming off it from the transponder ring wire too, this is also an earth and needs to be fixed to body some how. On a MK2 there is a suitable stud on the a-pillar, not sure about in MK1 though.
got it 99% right wilber diagnostics port: red/white - live (or ign live, makes no odds really) brown - earth grey & yellow - to diagnostics jumper block (yellow is unused tho) for these splice to the ciggy lighter wires, nice and easy and is what they were spliced to from the factory on the mk3 immob box: brown - earth (should both joint ot a ring connector, this i run to stud on a pillar) black - ignition live grey - diagnostics jumper block grey/white - to ecu diagnostics wire the green plug is for the brake pedal switch, just swapping this over by itself wont power up the immob box. see the black single pin plug hanging off it? this goes to one of the jumper blocks above the mk3 fusebox, which in turn gets power from the D plug pin 9 or 11 you are missing the diagnostics jumper block, this will make port and immob box plug n play together as is. you could just splice immob box direct to the diagnostic port if you wanted tho.
Hi, I know this thread has been dead for a while but I've just converted my sdi caddy mk2 to ahu tdi, all mechanical work is done and 99% of wiring is done. All I'm stuck on is getting her actually started, diag port work with my vag com but I'm stuck on where to put the black wire with the single black plug as the jumper block above the caddy fuse box only takes 2pin plugs. The ahu is immo 1 and caddy is immo 2. Also the caddy fuse box doesn't have a D plug in place at all ??? Sorry to jump in on thread but I'm so close to finishing the van. I really hope someone can help me please please please !!!!!!!!!!!
Also I changed my push rod gearbox to the tdi hydro box and had a few probs on the way so I've got a lot of info on which way to go with the conversion if anyone needs any help with mechanical stuff ?
any old ignition live feed will do lad, if you dont mind splicing to the engine loom g2/4 would do you as its fused. could always put a connector in it if you would rather the engien loom can still split from the immob loom
Thank you so much for popping in !!!!!!! So that's the black wire to g2 fuse box connector pin 4 yes ? Sorry I'm more mechanical minded than wiring but I'm getting there slowly lol. I'm now getting open circuit earth at fuel shut off valve as well so would that be to do with the immo ? But I did have grief with the 109 relay before the sdi went pop it wouldn't start intermittently and I had to give the 109 relay a gd tap to get it to start. One more thing I completely deleted and removed egr valve and plug. Will this effect running as it will pro be an open circuit as well won't it as the plug isn't there at all, I have some 8ohm resistors in my beetle glove box so should I hsve fitted one of those ? I have paid my 10 membership to the site and waiting for my pack to arrive just so you know I'm not after info for free : ) Sorry to pick your brains but you seem the brain to pick on here lol Thanks in advance !!!
G1 and G2 pin 4 both fine, g1 is not fused so id prefer g2 but tbh should be alright really. thats about the limit of my diesel knowledge, but once you get the immob box up and running try again and see what happens, if still no go you shoudl check the fault codes on both the ecu and immob box to see if and why the immobiliser is cutting in. (ecu will say immobiliser cutting in, the immobiliser box will say why) pretty sure egr can be binned but not 100%, resistors best not to use rather have the features coded out from what i have read on here but speak to toyotec for the definitive answers on what can and cant be deleted and how best to do so
Thanks john your a star !!!!!!!! Just one more thing (sorry) I've got the vss wire (blue single pin blue/white wire) but not sure where it plugs into ? I've swapped out sdi clocks for tdi one (not from the donor golf) would that effect immo ? I don't think in a P reg the immo included the cluster did it ? Anyways the cluster loom for the golf clocks fits the caddy tdi clocks but it has 2 more plugs coming off it, what in trying to is will the original sdi loom run the revs tachometer as the sdi clocks only had speedo and time clock side by side but the caddy cluster has speedo and revs, so would the golf cluster loom 2 extra plugs be to do with rev counter ? I hate asking so many questions I'm really sorry !
Also this caddy conversion seems to be fairly popular so I was going to attempt a point by point write up involving drive shafts, hubs, loom, pedal box, egr delete etc or am I trying to be a guru before mines running properly lol !
The blue/white wire needs to go to the clock speedo output, its W/1 on the MK3 fusebox not sure on the dodgy caddy one but if you let me know the year and engine code originally in it I'll dig out a diagram and check the caddy immobiliser is probably separate same as mk3, but even if the caddy one was in the clocks did it doesn't matter as the mk3 ecu will ignore it anyway and use the mk3 one. mk3 clock looms have extra wires for the indicators black/green and black/white which need to be tapped into your loom, factory mk3 have a plug hanging off the A1 and A2 plugs tapped into the front indicator wiring but rear or stalk loom will work just as well. there is a purple/white wire on some for the mpg signal if its got an MFA cluster, plus on some there are extra wires for the brake pad warning/abs etc which you can ignore if not equipped on the caddy. Assumign the cluster sockets are same layout as mk3 fusebox everything else should work as before but I'll double check that for you as well. may as well look at the immobiliser ignition live wire while I'm there I guess
Your a bloom in wealth of knowledge mate !!!!!!!!!!! Just to make clear I'm not using the mk3 golf clocks that came with the donor golf I brought done caddy tdi clocks off eBay and I'm using them ? I believe the engine code for the sdi was an AEY does that sound right ? And it's an S reg. all the forums say the tdi and sdi fuse boxes are the same and yes that is true but if the loom plugs are all together missing then it's not straight forward : ( The golf cluster loom has 2 extra plugs : black 3 pin plug with purple/white wire + black/white wire + black/green wire And blue single pin plug with plain red wire ? The 2 blue 14 pin plugs with white wires look the same ? Honestly thanks so much for your help I'm so greatful to you !!!!!!!!!!
ok if the clocks are from the same model as yours just swap the caddy clock loom back in, the mk3 loom probably wont work right on the mk3 loom the 3 pin plug is indicator + mpg, the single one on its own is for brake pad warning
