Just to clarify : I unplugged the sdi engine and at the mo all off the sdi loom is still hanging in the van as I didn't want to take any of it out until the new engine was started and running ok. All the bat cables are exactly the same I just put the tdi engine in and put the alternator wire on and the thick black wire with large eyelet from the bat onto the side of the tdi engine as it was bolted to the top of the sdi gearbox. I then set about chopping the tdi loom, I followed you t4 guide for this, I cut out the lighting loom which was fairly easy, I chopped off the brown wires where it was heat shrunk into the black wire, sorted out all the plugs in the right place, chopped out the egr plug as I knew I was blanking it off anyway. I Put a new eyelet on the ecu earth and I've earth it to the body after sanding the area to get a good earth. You say there should be another earth going to the engine for 109 ? The only eyelet I was left with out of the loom tdi was the ecu main earth. Have I chopped something out I shouldn't have ?
well looking at the diagram there isnt a wire for it, it just earths thru the casing or something? seems to share pins with the n108 valve?
This is really doing my head in now !!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't get any code for 108 valve but I've just been on the tdi forum and people have had the same symptoms as me but no code ? (Just an idea) now I think about it, when I first wired it up and went to start it, it threw the immo code and the starter kicked in for literally a split second so could that have something to do with it, maybe injector pump stuck in the cycle ? The dash is going back in today as I'm sure my wiring is ok, I'll vag com it as I've got my lap top back now and I'll give you the results later.
Right I've done some digging and apparently the white/black wire that is attached to the top of the fuel shut off valve goes to the 3 pin connector at the front of the block then from the to the round controller on the metal bracket then from there either goes tithe ecu or straight to the G1 connector pin 7 or something ? Anyways i don't seem to have a white/black wire going to my G1 connector ? Does this sound right ? Having a nightmare with this as full time job, doing up a house and the weatheris really slowing it down !!!!!!!!!!!!!
the N109 valve has a white/black wire this goes from the 3 pin plug pin 1 to the round plug, then to ecu pin 53. The N108 valve has a brown/black wire from 3 pin plug pin 2 to round plug then ecu pin 51, and a black/yellow wire from 3 pin plug pin pin 3 to the round plug then fusebox pin G1/10 (ecu relay power) G1/7 is the ecu relay earth trigger from the ecu pin 42, this is a black/purple wire
Well maybe that's the problem I don't have a wire going into pin 7 at all but how did the golf start when I tested it before buying it as ive not changed any of the plug pins around at all ? Very strange ? I'll have a look today, all the other wires check out you mentioned
Right I was being an idiot !!!!!!!!!!!! I was looking the G1 plug upside down ggggggrrrrrrrrr !!! Anyways all the wires you mentioned are in the right place. Got the dash back in today and the clocks as I had a break from work, house and the weather thank fook ! Anyway the everything works fine stereo, heater, hazards, lights and the clocks work with mileage and clock fine. But when I turn the key to first ignition my the mileage and clock disappears and the coil light comes on then when turned to start the clocks go completely blank and whole van is dead. Key back to 1 ignition and the fuel and oil temp gauges jump around for a couple of seconds then settle down again and mileage and time clock reappears ?
Blooming hope not it's only a year old and was left in the van for around 5 weeks without being started in the warm weather she I started the conversion and says 13.6 volts when on my trickle charger and I'm sure reads 12.4 when I turn the key to start ?
Right I have literally just solved my earth problem and after all my loom worries and all of the other rubbish I've been whining over, it was the fact I'd used a stupid bolt I'd found in a tool box to bolt the main large earth to the side of the block and it had a kind of washer around the underneath of the top of the bolt. Anyway the long and short I'd done it up tight but the washer had sunk into the actual hole in the middle of the earth eyelet, hence it looked like it was done up but it literally had half a mm of play when I eventually wiggled it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got another new bolt put it in done it up and hey presto it turns over no probs, no codes in the module, I need to bleed the clutch and get g12 coolant, service it fully (water pump and cam belt done when engine was out) then I'll get her running and report back on temps and stuff. John I'd really like to thank you for sticking with me on this one I'm really greatful to a great guy who I've never met lol !!!!!!!!!!! Anyone reading this post do your bolts up and check them systematically or you will spend weeks looking for a problem that is right in front of you just like me
Got it all sorted, drives nice, boosts well, brakes awesome and I haven't even changed brakes yet lol. Clutch is a little spongey so gotta sort that and got a small ticking noise when press clutch pedal but small things I can iron out. Only thing is I took it for a 10 min drive then when I got home the bat was dead ? Have I wired the alternator right ? I left the old sdi leads to the alternator from the old loom but now I think about it I plugged in the F plug from the golf loom, am I right in thinking maybe the alternator isn't getting a signal to charge from the golf F plug think it's blue wire F3-4 or something ? The whole bloody van is back together now and looking gd please don't say I gotta pull the fuse box again GGGGGRRRRRR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes in red with the oil light but then goes a coue of seconds before the glow plug light, it's always been like that tho ?
cool that means the alternator wire is ok, so either the battery is toast or the alternator isnt charging properly. next step is battery voltage check engine on and off
Sorted it seems, put my trickle charger on it for the past 24 hrs and now it reads 12.6 when engine off and alt reads 13.5 when running, happy days : )
Little bit off subject but I've brought a set of twin 10" kenlowe fans that look great but not sure on the wiring, caddy fan plug is 3 pin, brown for earth I'm guessing red/black I think (low speed?) and red/yellow I think ? Just had a quick look between the monsoons lol !!!!!!! Fans have 2 wires black and blue interchangeable motors for push/pull whatever you need ? Tried looking for a diagram to see speeds but no go : ( any ideas as I'm driving down to Plymouth for a gig and a surfing trip in the old the week after next so I'm guessing I'll need the fans lol
ok first off you want the fans to suck air thru the rad into the bay, see if you can make up a shroud to mount them in this will make the fan cooling more efficient, but if not you could mount them offset so one fan covers the upper part and another covers a lower part thus all rad core pipes are cooled. for wiring the red/black wire is usually fast speed, another clue is the wire thickness the thicker wire is fast speed thinner wire is slow. What you'll have to do if you have single speed fans is tap both wires into the live anyway, as i believe if the temp goes to 'fast' then the slow speed feed cuts out, which you definitely wouldnt want if you only have the slow speed hooked up to the fans
