meine auto and the ring.

Discussion in 'Chassis' started by Matt82, Sep 2, 2008.

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  1. RIP-MK3 Forum Addict

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  2. tony_d Forum Member

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    Nice pics there Matt. :thumbup:
     
  3. Matt82

    Matt82 Forum Addict

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    [italian mobster voice] hey tony! [/italian mobster voice]

    did you get through the rest of your laps? your trip home go smoothly?
     
  4. Admin Guest

    you have to remember that the mk3 is a bit large and wallowy. And most importantly FWD!

    you going to make this a dedicated track car or just a fun daily?

    have you thought about a quicker rack? you got PAS, can you make that quicker?
    you can change the camber/toe in ec but it will start to eat tyres at the front but give you more response on track.
     
  5. Matt82

    Matt82 Forum Addict

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    the mk3 is "wallowy" when its on the suspension it left the factory with. about as much damping as a bag of jelly. once a lot of the hardware has been changed, it really has no excuses, but once youve got the gear youve got to get it working in harmony.

    it going to remain as a fun road car hence the "sensible" geometry as i wont be driving to tesco everyday with 100% commitment, things like tyres do have to last :p

    i just want to dial in a bit more initial turn in response, ill come up with something :p
     
  6. Admin Guest


    then with out taking a huge step forward, as you've hit the wall effectively with mods, you can faff about now with toe in and tow out, +/- camber but it wont' get you to far and each have advantages and disadvantages in use on a car.

    you can run a bit more toe in and camber but you'll go through tyres a bit quicker ;)
     
  7. prof Forum Addict

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    eccentric top mounts and lots of castor, with it all set up by someone who knows, and depending on wishbone angles -balljoint spacers
     
  8. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    But too much for a road car IMO.
     
  9. infinity

    infinity Forum Member

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    Matt you got any vids of your lap(s)?? My A4 usually understeers when i am carrying too much speed into a bend?

    fast in slow out or slow in fast out....
     
  10. Matt82

    Matt82 Forum Addict

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    there is one vid actually, its being sorted out at the moment. its just under 8 minutes and is over 600mb from memory, so needs to be compacted a bit.

    its not even just at high speed where i can feel the turn in is reluctant. on the road this can be the case too for tight roundabouts.

    is there any way that my car's higher rear end would cause the reluctant turn in? the boot is generally empty so i cant see this being a polar moment of interia issues

    i honestly think this has been ever since i put the new drop links in
     
  11. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    Just to add my thoughts.

    I had a rear ARB on my MK2 and removed it as the rear was too `twitchy` for me. Those who have been in the car with me usually agree it is very progressive and controllable.

    I have a 25mm (?) front ARB (the std one), rear beam is std.
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    std front arb is 18mm unless its a g60, then its a 21.5
     
  13. prof Forum Addict

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    higher rear would stuff up your castor...
     
  14. Matt82

    Matt82 Forum Addict

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    now there is a thought... shame the rears are wound all the way down, there will be a way round
     
  15. prof Forum Addict

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    and too low at the front is a bad idea for handling, unless ball joint spacers etc are used
     
  16. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    I've got a 28mm 3 way adjustable rear ARB set on the stiffest. My turn in response is just fine. Even with a VR6 in the front of a mk2.
     
  17. Dub Nutta Forum Member

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    I would recomend that you try to soften the compression damping or lower your front spring rates to help promote some weight transfer to the outside wheel on turn in. increacing the rake angle of the car (lowering the front or raising the rear) will also help to put some more weight over the front wheels... easiest method would be to brake later and harder to load up the front tyres, make sure you have enougth rebound damping to stop the front of the car poping back up to quickly before you turn in.

    There is alot of talk about ballancing the car by making the rear stiffer but in effect you are loosing grip at the rear by doing this!
     
  18. Matt82

    Matt82 Forum Addict

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    thats a logical post. unfortunately my eibach coilovers are not damping adjustable. i am tempted to look for lower rate springs though.

    demon tweaks has them at 50 for eibach ERS springs

    ive got a set of spacers laying around, would they be any use?
     
  19. Matt82

    Matt82 Forum Addict

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    ive checked the part numbers of the coilover kit that i have

    on the eibach site there are two sets of pro-street coilovers for the mk3

    both sets are listed for all models (1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.0 GTI 16V, 2.8 VR6, 1.9 SDI, 1.9 D, 1.9 TD/GT, 1.9 TDI)

    when you go into the fitting instructions and see the model numbers for the springs, the front springs are different

    front axle load <890kg
    front axle load <980kg

    ive got the set with the heavier front springs

    when you look at the applications for those specific springs, it says vr6 and tdi... ive only got a 2.0

    which goes to expain a few things

    main front spring

    ERS-H-170-60-0060
    VS
    ERS-H-170-60-0070

    6KG/mm vs 7KG/mm ?
     
  20. 3hirty8ight Forum Member

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    VW singh is correct, the addition of a rear ARB will increase the steering response.. I run a Whiteline ARB on my Clio Cup and it has made the car so much better. On a turd chassis like the Mk3 a bigger rear anti roll bar by a few mm isnt going to turn it into a rear wheel steer machine..

    As what Sir Eyre has added to this, running more front toe in on the Golf cup car we run creates a more positive turn in..

    Failing that raise the rear ride height a tad..
     
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