My own 18 year old son has just recently passed his test. He's a good driver, but it's not his attitude that I worry about... I know I'm probably fretting for nothing and it's all just part of the parenting game, but they're always you baby (hear that Tristan!), even they're so tall now they have to bend down to give you a hug. Just doesn't bear thinking about, hard not to relate and feel for your mate and his own parents.
Found a few other things at the same time... Clearly remember ringing up VWH at the time to have these sent out, incredible that it's now 10 years ago!
Recently logged onto the MK1 Golf owners club forum for the first time in a long time. Doesn't seem to be a great deal happening there anymore, which is a shame and makes you appreciate the activity on here all the more. Anyhow, probably because of that it wasn't hard to pick up on a post of a month or so ago asking about Zender stuff, specifically the Turbo wheel caps. It even referenced an old post I'd made in 2013 that tried to outline what the differences in them was. That old posts images are long gone thanks to photobucket, so while it's still accurate / valid, because it relied on the images in part it has made it harder to follow what was being explained. https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/inde...echnical/running-gear_2/zender-turbo-centre&= Got me revisiting the subject to refresh myself and try answering the latest post and below is a cut'n'paste resume of all of the above sources rolled into a hopefully short and sweet summary, just incase you ever need to know! " ...Overall there was a choice of 3x finishes - silver, polished and white. Not all the sizes came in all the finishes though. Caps for 14x6" and 15x6" came in just silver or polished. These two wheel sizes carry the same cap part number confirming that dimension wise they are interchangable. 15x7" / 16x7" / 16x8" and 16x9" wheels share a second cap part number, again confirming the one cap is used over those different sizes. The only anomaly is the cap for the VW Bus wheel, despite being 15x7" it has a cap that's unique to it. When you see images of the Bus wheel it does look slightly different / chunkier in style, probably a result of creating a stonger casting for the increased load rating they were permitted to take. That must've had a knock on effect on the cap size. So oddities (and the original snap on plasic type) aside there were just 3 x different caps made - one for 6" wide wheels, another for the 7/8 and 9" wide wheels plus a solitary third one for VW buses alone. Probably as clear as mud, but if you're on the look out for caps should help you home in on the correct ones.
Aimlessly looking about eBay and noticed this for small change, though have since seen some more and those sellers must reckon they're for Rolls Royces' and not elderly Saabs. Do like a Saab, but no expert and relying on what I read so if correct these were on 99's circa the 1980's. There's later, more integrated styles on subsequent 900's from what I can see, but this one suits the MK1 better I think. Hoped it'd be a straight swap and could attach it just with new holes to the existing head rail but the (clever) VW way of attaching their mirror means the gap's too big. Not a problem though, should be able to work something out. Wiring appears to be pretty basic, 2 x spade terminals and presumably loose wires into the head cloth. Apart from that nifty courtesy light which means you're not having to put up with stretching over to the original which is sited above the passenger door, it's also got a noticibly wider / deeper mirror glass for an improved rear view. It's central position should make for better / more useful illumination too. My car's stripped at the moment so can't check if the sun visors will foul on it, something to bear in mind if you're tempted to get one also. Sturdy thing, but then it is from a Sabb (and Hella)!
Going to have a stab at 'porting' an intake manifold. Turns out the head on the car has previously been done, I've since picked up a larger throttle body and the airbox will also have the larger Volvo 240 inlet / base. Probably end up with an improved exhaust too when the time comes as my standard iron manifold has a hair line crack in it. Mentioned before, not doing any of this for out and out performance reasons, just appeals having what would be period 'mods' on the car so as long as they don't have the reverse effect and detune things I'm happy enough if there's limited gains too. Picked up a cheap intake to practice on first but even so don't want to be needlessly destroying it doing something preventable. Anyone done this themselves, have a few pointers (images would be ideal)?
Guinea-pig manifold came with a throttle body thrown in, turns out it's a MK2 16v one (stamped 1986) that's been adapted to accept the MK1's throttle cable set up, done properly too by welding on the ball piece. Oridinarily I'd have been well pleased getting a bonus like that, but this time it means the manifold has already been opened up a bit by the previous owner to accept the bigger TB. Odd thing is it's almost like they half finished it, to my mind there's still plenty more that can be taken off so the inlet's flush, all's not lost. Not sure if the runners have been done, it's still piggin' at the moment, will see post a clean up. Didn't really worry me because of why I wanted it, but someone has also had a go at polishing the upper facing surfaces of the manifold and it looks a dogs dinner, must've used a really aggressive wheel or similar, lots of lumps / bumps and scores every where. The TB after cleaning, it doesn't owe me much money, just plenty of hours instead. This must be the 4th. or 5th. TB I've opened up recently and they've all been without exception gritty and sticky with the flaps difficult (completely stuck in one case) and jerky to move, bound to have affected how the cars they came from ran and maybe something worth giving more maintenance attention to?
Had a go at sorting the manifold and it's responding quite well, has surprised me. Just sanding it down really, though it is an awkward shape in places, so will never be 100%. Having said that when you look at one that hasn't been touched it isn't exactly perfect either, it's a rough enough casting. Got me thinking I might try and crinkle paint finish it in black to see what it looks like, do like that look and nothing to lose, might even put it on the car if it comes up well.
Ordered some burring attachments from Amazon, so with next day delivery it meant I was able to get on with things quicker than expected. There was definitely plenty more meat to be taken off, can now see why the previous owner had given up. MK2 16v TB's outer flange really handy as a template. It's not overly difficult if you take it easy, just very, very time consuming (but also very satisfying). The bulk of the work isn't doing the outer openings edge profile, it's what you have to take backwards into the manifold from there and down instead. Not going to bother getting the finish anything finer, not sure there's any point anyhow as the rest of the inside is still going to be the rough original bare cast. Having said that it's definitely smooth to the touch even at this stage. One of the images shows a fraction of the filings that came off, not something you'd want to be doing on the kitchen table. It's possible the runners had also been started, saving me a little work. My other manifold has numbers cast into it at the openings and there were none this time so maybe already burred down. Made up a template from the head as I've no gasket to work from at the moment, plus like I said it's been ported already itself so may have different sizings any how. No way of checking if any of it'll make any difference, just something I wanted to try. The guinea-pig manifolds now had a sanding that's got rid of 99.9% of the previous marks caused by rough polishing, also had to get rid of the VW casting numbers etc. in the process, so the decision's made and definitely going to crinkle paint it now that we're this far on.
Nice work ,I did one of these on my 2 litre conversion,the inlet manifold casting can do with some love @ the ports also, surprisingly found with a new gasket as a template they is room for improvement. It gets worse when you check head to exhaust manifold ,I found that 3A Audi 80 gaskets are slightly larger and match ported to them ,you need a sharp cutter on the cast exhaust manifold and be aware the chips are very sharp. I blended the ports about 50mm up on the inlet manifold but less required on the exhaust side so just match them up ,used a metal rod with emery cloth on it for final clean up with my die grinder,small steps to increase flow but IMO worth doing if you have time and tools,cheers.
What kind of tools do you use for the "porting"? I've tried with some sanding sponge on a rotating tube but had the idea it didn't work.
With a bit of luck I'm hoping to dodge doing the old iron exhaust manifold, would like to go down the road of getting something made up and then able to make sure it's alreadty 'flowed' as best possible. I'm sure there's alot more science to it that just me grinding away like I was, but was working on the premise if more air's able to flow more easily it's bound to be beneficial... might not be optimal like a professional could achieve, but that's OK for my needs. This is the burr set I got from Amazon, but likely available elsewhere / cheaper too possibly / alternatives. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08L7HS12T?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Just used the one profile of bit and it's still as good as new, even after quite a bit of work... these'll be one of those useful things that'll pay for themselves over and over. Straight fit onto a Dremel I've had for years, it's the type with a long flexible arm Got about 3cm of reach up the runners with these, must look to see if you can get burrs on long reach shafts, but even there are the bends will mean it'll probably be impossible for me to go all that much furher anyhow.
Ordered crinkle paint from Demon Tweeks over 2 weeks ago... queried where it was a few days back only to be told it was now out of stock with an estimated delivery of the end of May! More ordered elsewhere, but still in transit, so in the mean time amused myself further honing the manifold plus 'un-polished' the previous owners work on those upper faces. Just the 16v TB flange in place this time, so as to better show the new profiled opening (and the runner openings). Doesn't look it, but there was plently of metal removed, you have to be very careful and pay attention to the area behind as it's quite thin walled in some places.
The wrinkle paint's on, but apparently it needs anything between 24 and 48 hours to get the full effect. It has begun to show signs of forming over the last 6 or so hours, but still a way off the look I was expecting. Not helped by the lights here, but it's also got a noticible gloss to it at the moment which hopefully will become the matt / satin finish promised. They also say it should be 'cured' at 200 degrees for an hour when finally dry... maybe that'll get it to where I want it to be, fingers crossed
Going to call it a day on this experiment... the wrinkle effect has definitely improved with time, just as they said it would, plus an hour in the oven at 200 degrees probably helped as well, but it's just not quite the look I was expecting... think I set myself up for a fall imagining it'd be more uniform. Having said that it's still turned out very well, specially considering what it began as. The original VW finish is rough enough which didn't help, and I probably spent time I wouldn't do again taking out casting lines and the part numbers etc. I was never planning to fit this to my own car, much prefer the raw aluminium look so will probably move it on at some stage. Didn't initially owe me much, but the paint was expensive and put a stop to that, plus the hours and hours and hours involved doesn't really make doing something like this viable if ithe intention was to sell it on. Glad I did it, experience gained, but it's a one off!
Looks good, but definitely! Marmite..... Not for me, but great amazing work. If someone wants this black theme, they will be all over it.
Wouldn't be a big job to over paint it with VHT silver if preferred, the wrinkle paint is already high temp. stuff and almost enamel like now that it's been cured. Think it's just that we're so used to seeing the inlet in silver that black seems odd but when you think about it nearly every thing else around it is black... pipe work, cam cover and such so that's arguably the more natural colour it should be! Something like a Schrick cover that's black with silver machined highlights would work really well together with it.
