What a read... that A.N.Other dude likes to lay down the law, any wonder they were banned! Some of the kind of thoughts I was pondering cropping up, though 90% of what's written goes way over my head at the moment, so not easy to follow aspects of it yet. The image / scan of the Blomqvlist Saab magazine article... there's a tantalizing line or two just in shot about it running a Frankenstein mix of Porsche 928 meter along with a 911 air flap so mixing / matching seems to be a well worn path by the look of it. I was hoping by now someone would've done all the donkey work already and found the optimum set up, lazy git that I am I'd then just have to track it down! I maybe didn't pick up on it, but does the pivoting arm not also play a part in a particular cars set up? The Volvos profile, where the meter piston rests / rises and falls from is slightly differently positioned / shaped to the MK1's, must play some part in combination with the funnel profile / meter choice? Head's spinning, big subject but very interesting... need to understand the basics before going down that rabbit hole (but definitely will be).
Carrying on from the Peugeot kit, got me looking into injector testers and this was up on eBay at the time. Unfortunately though it was cheap it was also buggered and has taken 3 x days to dismantle / free up the inards to the point it's putting fluid through some old injectors (that Volvo again). Finally got all the leaks sorted today but the gauge needle is a little bit wobbly, not what you want trying to get accurate readings. Half decent replacements don't seem to be that expensive so will try another when I get around to it. There's present day lookalike knock off testers all over the place, seem to be Indian or Chinese origin but don't get much of a good press. This thing's from the 50's or 60's I think, C.A.V of England and massively over engineered... has become a bit of a challenge to get it going properly again. The brown layered rectangular thingy is the filter believe it or not, series of felt blocks around a metal core that's also got it's own strainer all of which sits in that alloy cannister feeding the pump. Sadly it's missing the lid but will eventually turn one up or just make something instead. Solitary Inter-web image found so far and of the instruction booklet but unfortunately no contents, sort of dates it.
yeah both parts of the metering head play their part. the fuel unit will obv set the volume of fuel delivered at any given flap position, and the shape of the cone in the air flap will determine how much fuel is delivered for a certain volume of air. I had a VW motorsport metering head setup a long while ago for my ABF conversion, iirc in that thread above I posted up rough measurements of the air cone on that vs the stock 16v item. It seemed to work alright, unfortunately at the time I sold it I didnt realise it was a genuine VW motorsport unit otherwise I'd have kept it
Measured the Volvo funnel very roughly with a cheapie gauge so likely a little bit out one way or the other. The Volvo pivot arm differs but looks like you could straight swap in the MK1's to run the VW metering gauge. Unless someone's fathomed out some sort of formula it'd presumably just be trial and error, seeing what works and it's effect?
from pages 4 and 5 there are some good measurements, plus my measurements for std and motorsport 16v one is at the bottom of page 2 such as they are yours looks similar but also different to the motorsport unit in the shape of the cone, though if you look at the 1.6 mk1 measurements on the next page those are more similar though the volvo unit is larger overall. so it seems the cone shape on yours would match a tuned 8v more than a 16v perhaps if that makes sense I need to go thru that thread and give it a tidy, too much waffle before you get to the good stuff
The adjustment tube on the air-flow sensor body... never gave it much thought 'till started getting interested in K-jet. and now know there should be a 'plug' for it when not in use. Makes sense, if it's left open to let in unmeasured air that must have some influence on running / readings? Anyhow turns out there's 2x types, not sure the reason for that but ones a blue bung affair in the style of that on a MK2 air flow meter. I'm guessing also like the MK2's it would need replacing every time it's removed because of the way it's pressed in and sacrificed when getting it out. The other's like the one below with an handle. Surprised me to find they're still available (source seems to be VW Classic Parts, so also some re-sellers). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133005229602 If you think £15.00 is steep, have a look out for the specialist Porsche sites flogging the exact same thing for two and three times the cost, amazing! Kept thinking that it reminds me of something and eventual the penny dropped... the daubers you use to apply dye to leather (Google / eBay search 'Feibings wool dauber'). The tube inner diameter is 7mm which just so happens to be one of the sizes rubber cord seems to come in. No need to go through what I've done other than look at the piccies. The 'real' bung is probably bonded to the metal, I've just bent over and splayed out the dauber shaft so it doesn't pull off trying to get it out. Rubber pipe was £3.00 and some pence posted for a metre (one of those things that'll go in the bits'n'bobs box to save the day again on other jobs), the dauber I had, but again if you buy in quantity cost buttons each. 'Glory to Pedants' VW - Not VW...
Good to know... when you see the caked on crud that appears to cover the air flow sensors of some cars, it's probably worth filling that hole from a cleanliness point of view.
tbh most of that crap comes from the breather, but yeah bunging up that wee hole is deffo worth doing
The MK1 thermo-time switch ( VW 043 906 163A / Bosch 028 130 214) with spec. marked as 35 degrees / 8 seconds. Have read Bentley's method of testing it's working, but that's aimed at when it's on a working engine / connected to a battery. Could do that off the car I suppose but thought I'd try and understand how to test it using a multimeter / ohms and found a few posts that give the following parameters (although the author states these were Porsche specs. but believed they closely matched the MK1's ?) If anyone has a reference to the MK1's expected ohms readings or can confirm the above are correct that would be a big step forward. Electrics will never be my thing, just can't grasp it. So is my understanding close? As said, I'm using a multimeter so the final set of figures below are what I should be referencing (the 'w to g' ones as per the markings on the switch itself)? g to ground is ….. under 86F/30C* 25-40 ohms over 104F/40C* is 50-80 ohms w to ground is under 86F/30C* 0 ohms over 104F/40C* 100-160 ohms w to g is under 86F/30C* 25-40 ohms over 104F/40C* 50-80 ohms These are the figures I'm getting and they seem to fall within those quoted. The water used was approx. boiling point, but don't have a thermometer handy at the moment. At cold the switch sits more or less constantly at the lower reading. In the boiling water it'll quickly rise to the higher reading... infact I'd say it takes around 8 seconds, don't know if that is coincidence or by design. When removed it'll stay on that for quite a while then when it does drop it'll do so quite quickly, again takes about 8 seconds. So based on the above, am I correctly understanding testing by using ohms and if so do the readings I'm getting suggest this switch is working correctly?
yep your test looks fine functionally, in a nutshell, when its cold the W terminal should give you a path to ground through the sensor body. when heated up in the water, or after so many seconds of supplying 12v to the built in heater connected to pin G it should stop giving you a path to ground to the sensor body. so another test would be to put a test lamp between W and sensor body, it should light up on a cold sensor. dump it in the water, the light should go out. take sensor out again, let it cool down. repeat test, but instead supply G with 12v, after a couple seconds the test lamp should go out
Great thanks... slowly starting to get my head around things electrical! Good too that the switch seems to be OK, even second hand they seem to fetch a shocking price.
Yeah the prices are pretty crazy, but if you search for other makes as well as vw you can get lucky. Just be sure to check the spec as that can differ, but tbh a slightly different cut off temp probably wouldn't be noticeable tbh
Going off at a bit of a tangent here... The MK2's more or less original / bog standard, with just a few loosely period and easily reversible accessories etc. and that's how I like it and it'll be staying. The 205 seems to have lead a different life with lots of work having been done / undone in it's past. Because of that it's far from original (but still more or less standard spec.) and I look at it in a different way to the MK2, doesn't bother me that it's resprayed / new carpet / seats etc. even though it would probably make a purist weep. As the MK1 is going to become a Z20 it'll be quite radically different from factory, so I'm much more open to moving away from standard than with the others. Having said that when I say non-standard I'm still going to try and keep changes to ones that would've been done back when the car was current in the 1980's. To give you an idea the 205 seems to have had a list of period mods. done to it that were popular back in it's day - Twin fans from the Turbo diesel (still there). Rear axle drilled / nipples fitted to grease the hubs (doesn't work, just fills the beam up instead!) Air box delete / AFM re-sited with cone filter (all since reversed). So the point of the post is... what interesting mods. would've been around for the MK1 that might fit the bill and I can look into further, but I'm not talking major stuff like engine transplants etc. To start things off here's a couple I've found todate - 1. Plastic air filter box replaced with the alloy one from a Volvo 240. 2. Neuspeed enlarged throttle body.
3. 'audi' throttle body and wur or MK2 GTI/16v throttle, 16v wur which are very similar if not the same 4. K-star 5. TSR big brake kit, now would you go for the earlier version which used modified rover discs, or the newer one which uses g60 discs is the question 6. Autocavan upgraded brake cross bar thingy 7. One of those useless vacuum fuel saver things, just because 8. Paint splats, golf-ball-in-the-window, clip on fingers caught in doors/boot, that guy who drops his trousers when you pump the vacuum ball, dancing coke can etc
The Audi throttle body / WUR was on my radar as I think it's from a model that was available at the same time as the MK1. The MK2 I was wavering on as the pedant in me says it came after the MK1 and was a later mod. if you see what I mean? If you think of someone in 1983 checking what was out there at that time. The Autocavan cross bar sounds interesting, definitely one to look into. The TSR brakes too and probably the earlier version for the same reason as mentioned earlier. As tempting as the others sound should've said I was thinking of mechanical mods. only!
the mk2 one would be basically the same though the period audi units have the same linkage style as the mk1 so the original cable fits. I think you can swap bits off the mk1 throttle over to achieve the same effect but if you can find a decent audi unit for a good price then that'll do (or the neuspeed one, plus IIRC there was a perioud round throttle upgrade with adaptor you could get from somewhere, but the name of it escapes me. might have come out a little later though the 16v wur is the same as fitted to various audi 83-87 so I'd say is 'close enough' are you sure I cant change your mind?
