mk2 8v digifant to megasquirt wiring questions

Theres no turning back now

I have stripped all the digi stuff out and fed through the new loom. Going to bolt the new inlet on now.

Please could someone confirm if I can do the following

On the 5 pin connector from TCI
T5/1 Red/White Heated Oxygen sensor + 12v supply ( not used in UK)
T5/2 Red/Yellow Fuel Pump Relay signal to ECU -can I connect pin 37 to this?
T5/3 Red/Green Starter cranking signal ( this was removed for MS)
T5/4 Black/Yellow +12v from digifant relay - can I connect pin 28 to this?
T5/5 Red/Black Fuel pump and Injector +12v supply do I connect anything t this?

 

Well its all wired up but not firing up. Guess Im in the TT tomorrow Not sure what could be wrong. Only thing I am slightly unsure about is that I have pin 5 from the 5 plug pin from TCI going to the fuel rail and a pair of injector bank wires going to the other pin of the fuel rail. Is this correct? Am I supposed to do make any adjustments to the dizzy? I have not connected the lambda yet but thought the base map would get the car started without it.

P.S. where the hell is everyone I feel like Im going mad replying to my own thread 6 times in a row!

 

Has it got a spark? Can you hear the injectors 'tick' as they fire?

 

No idea about spark. I have got a feeling I may have the tps 5v ref going to the wrong pin on the tps so I may have traced the wrong wire all the way to the hall sender therefore not giving it the 5v. Going out to double check right now.

 

She Runs !!!

Its alive. Some idiot wired got the + and - mixed up on the dizzy. In my defence the markings on the all sender are opposite not sure how but its true, anyway went by the colours instead of the markings and it fired up ran a bit rough and then stalled. Im glad I got it running now I can go enjoy inters with the piece of mind that I haven't got a broken car to come back home to. Eddie, Mike thanks for all the support but Im sure more questions will follow

 

Glad it's running - once you can get it to run reliably, then you can really start with the mapping.

From my own long list of foul-ups, make sure you have power to the lift pump. It might be the same circuit as the main pump on the golf, but it's a separate wire from the fusebox on the Rocco, and I didn't realise that!

 

KG,
Glad to hear it is working and the issue was the lack of rpm input.

Mike_H on Golf 2 vehicles as KG's, you can integrate the MS controller into the connections that the original ECU connected to i.e. the T5 connector, TCI-h and the rest of the engine. So the wiring in the car at the fusebox remains untouched as it would be when running the digifant 2 system.
This is why I requested that G60KG follow the example in my "how to MS your 3A" thread.

The calibration which was my unrestricted 3A cal, should be considered as a config/debug cal only and the car would require development time, both road and dyno to control the bespoke 2E engine hardware.

 

I could not get it to communicate with megatune via a usb to serial adaptor. I will check again to see, maybe I have the wrong version installed. Need to tidy and extent some of the wiring. I wanted to mount the ecu in the glove box but the damn thing just does not want to come out.

EDIT: is version 2.25 p3 of megatune correct?

 

Only some adaptors work, from what I've heard. I got hold of an old IBM PC with a serial port, so didn't need one in the end.

Just fired up the ancient think pad. It's on 2.25 p3 as well. Want to try it to prove it's the cable?

 

I just loaded the megatune on my ancient laptop, the one you borrowed for vagcom a while back. Its got a serial port so I'm going to return my adaptor for a normal serial cable tomorrow. I managed to tidy and tape up some of the loom today and install the ecu into the glovebox. The car struggled to stay on when cold and i noticed the isv was not running. when warm the car idles ok. going to fit the lambda and gauge tomorrow and finish tidying the loom. Hopefully Ill get the ecu communicating to the loom, to be honest I still dont have a clue how to start refining the map but will do a bit more reading.

 

The map would not need refining but recalibrating to suit your engine.

 

Just finished tidying the wiring and fitted the lambda and afr gauge. Car is now idling at around 2k rpm and afr is at 11.5 Going to maplin now to get a serial cable. So whats the first thing I need to recalibrate via megatune?

 

Im not getting any power to the ISCV. I have onlt got pin 30 and a negative going to it. Should I also be giving it a 12v+ ?

 

I'll be home about 6.30 if you want to borrow my laptop to test it. You might have to enable idle control in mega tune

 

Power from the coil (black KL15) can be used to supply the ISCV.
I would leave the idle function disabled until the vehicle has a validated base map (which will not need the ISCV to idle). Once this is done you can switch on the idle function and calibrate to compensate from engine deviations away from set or desired idle.

 

Ive been reading the tuning manual and trying to get my head round what to do next, I even tried to make notes Which of the two links below should I be following based on the ECU I have MS1 V3 (I think). Considering I have a map on there to get the car started should I now be going through the idle setup described in the manual or what? I have booked in with garage streamline waiting on a call back, hopefully I'll be there next week.

http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtune.htm

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/tune.htm

 

can someone please explain in a nutshell what I am supposed to do to get my car to idle. to me the VE table just looks like random numbers, how am I supposed to know what do change them to etc.. the car keeps stalling and once up to full temp it barely stays on and if driven stalls more often than not when coming to a stand still.

 

Do you have an AFR gauge installed?

Gauge is essential to getting the VE table right.

if so, what readings are you getting for idle at warm-up and idle when fully warmed up?

 

I have an afr gauge installed, when cold the engine just stalls so have to keep the pedal down slightly. If you are talking about readings on the afr they are all over the place but mostly on the rich side 11-12s

 

Here's a real basic view from my perspective... someone will probably be along and correct it in a minute. This is partly from the research I did, and partly from watching how the 'tame megasquirt expert' mapped mine. I've also done a bit of tweaking since when I experimented with cam timing changes, but went back to the standard map.

Have you set the dizzy to the right place - to 0* advance? There's a 'fixed advance' setting in megatune to do that. Set the dizzy then switch it back off.

Find a straight, level, quiet piece of road, with no cops or cameras, and a minimum of neighbours. Be prepared to move if you find the locals are getting twitchy.

1. Disable the 'extras' like TPS enrichment, idle control. Check that your basic settings are about right (injector capacity, etc)

2. Warm it up to normal temp and try to map to a smooth-ish idle at around 1000 rpm (better to go a little higher than std with a cam in it). Mine idles at 1200. Open up the air bleed screw a bit if you need to. Try to reduce the fuelling down till just before it gets unstable - emissions tests and all that, but you can adjust it later. I reckon you need about 14:1 AFR to pass emissions on a non-Cat car, but you might not get to that without the ISV enabled, so just get as close as you can and fine tune it later. You might find that 10* advance or so at idle will help it to idle smoothly. Mine idles best at 18* with the 285 cam.

3. Once it's idling ok, then I'd back off the advance figures to a safe level (probably 5-10* less than the starter map, and not more than about 30-32* max advance at first, to avoid any detonation problems at high RPM) and gradually work up the rev range to get the fuelling right. If you find it's pinking during testing, back it off a bit more. I'd start with some part throttle just to check it feels OK, then use full throttle runs to 3000/3500 rpm, and adjust till the AFR is around 12.5-13:1 maybe (mine is around 12.5:1 most of the time, but yours has a milder cam so probably doesn't need to be as rich. This is a bit of a guess, but I think there's some logic behind it as well, around dumping fuel on the cam overlap). Once 3k is reasonably clean, then try 4.5k and adjust the fuelling, then maybe 5.5k, 6.5k.

Do a run, make an adjustment, do another, and compare the AFR gauge, and driving feel.

4. By the time you've done all that you should have a safe fuel map, although maybe not 100% optimum, and a safe ignition map, that you can now start to advance a bit. Again, I'd work up the rev range, doing full throttle runs to 3500, 4500, etc. Looking to advance the ignition to improve the pickup and throttle response, but back it off if you start to hear pinking (your stereo should be switched off while you're doing this ) As you go through, the car should start to feel a lot quicker as you get closer to the right sort of advance numbers.

Doing lots of full throttle runs up through the gears (mostly 2nd and 3rd, but you want to try 4th and 5th to check that it's not pinking in higher gears) is hard on the car, so keep your eye on coolant and oil temp. Give the car a break if it's getting hot or starts to smell of coolant.

That should be good enough to get you started without blowing it up. Make sure all the fluids are topped up before you start, and there's nothing iffy that should be fixed first...

Once you're reasonably happy with it, then it's time to turn on the extra functions like TPS and ISV, then look at part throttle mapping.

Steve R, Gurds VW Singh and of course Eddie have all done a lot more of this than I have, so might have better insights.