mk2 8v digifant to megasquirt wiring questions

Thanks for that Mike. In my pursuit of answers I only have more questions

1, I have not touched the dizzy, what exactly am I supposed to be doing with it. I left the timing alone as it was on digifant.

2, how do i disable the extras such as tps and Idle control

 

Basically what Mike is saying except most of that stuff will be done on the dyno ( the car is booked in too) where it is safe and I can monitor spark settings via det cans and lambda with the dyno's Autronic lambda equipment.
Once the base map is complete on the dyno then KG will be trained up, just as Steve R, vw_singh etc to perform his own refinments then the above will make more sense.
I would not advise in road development at this stage until there is a chance to properly validate a more mature calibration.
In fact any settings done now stand a good chance of being scrapped come dyno time.

So as a process ->
Get ECU fitted and functional on the vehicle (Done)
Start car and check for hardware issues (Done + not new build. Was working fine on digifant)
Get vehicle to dyno for base mappping (Booked)
Road refinement (TBA)
Training 1:1 to perform own iterations (TBA)
Cold start and drive (TBA)
Driveablity (TBA)

Follow this process and there will be no issues.

 

Understood The reason I have ants in my pants is because I need to use the car for the school run as our other car's coil packs decided to give up on the day I got the golf running on MS. The other car is going into audi on Monday as they had a recall on coilpacks. So am I safe to use the car for 2 miles a day staying under 3k rpm or am i likely to damage something? As far as I can see from the afr gauge its not running lean which is one of the major no no's right?

 

Time you fired up that laptop and looked through the menus, grasshopper.

I was very grateful to Eddie for mapping my car into the wee small hours, less two days before the 'Ring trip of 2010. Which made the difference between getting there or not. However I would have liked to have learned more of the process myself, by doing more of it, making a few wrong steps, but hopefully not blowing up the engine or creating a fireball in the process!

If you look through the menus there's a fixed Idle setting. If you're still on wherever the dizzy was sat, it's probably too far advanced, and adding 6* or so to all the advance settings in the base map. It would be good to back that off a bit.

I think you're unlikely to blow it up pottering around town, as long as you keep the revs low. In slight contradiction to Eddie's advice, I think you could also make a few adjustments in the low RPM ranges and save as your own map, just to see the effect of reducing the VE value in the table, on the AFR readings.

I wouldn't change anything on the fuelling till the basic spark setting is right.

Did you try adjusting the idle bleed screw to get the tickover a bit better? With the ISV disabled the engine won't be getting enough air with the throttle shut.

 

In answer to your question, your car in the current state and 3A ECU calibration , should only be used to get to the dyno, where it can be accessed properly. I would never advise on using a vehicle as a daily when the calibration map should be used only for debug and config and limping to the dyno.

So I do not advise running as a daily until it is validated and made safe by someone in the know.

Based on the questions and your willingness, you need training before venturing out and making adjusts to the system.

You are not just adjusting the MS ECU per se but the engine's combustion process.

 

Mike, the difference here is you have been trained when the engine was mapped live. I am quite confident to tell you what to do, if there is a concern on your own car and you do not know "how to" and the instruction will be carried out with great success and lots of informative feedback. This feedback can be used to create direct remote support with you performing an iteration or even "freeze cal" for a fix.

KGs car will no doubt have many unmanaged unknowns with the SEM and unvalidated cal.

I do not want to tell someone to dive in the deep end until I am happy they can swim out!!

 

thats how mine is!

 

thanks for all the input guys, training sounds good as I thought everything would be self explanitory once I had the megatune going but in all honestly I am in way over my head. Looking forward to next week Eddie. Meanwhile I'll continue exploring the software without making changes.

 

Good to browse through the menus and have a think about what the individual functions mean. You might be surprised what you'll remember later. Come over tomorrow if you want to know whatever I can remember - which might be a challenge!

 

Now Toyotecwerked!

Eddie worked his magic on the rollers last night and the car is now transformed, thanks again. On standard management it felt like the engine was straining or working harder to acheive what my right foot was telling it to. Now throttle feels lighter and more responsive and I can phyisically feel the difference of the gains. slight niggles I noticed is that there is a slight misfire when on light throttle around 2.5-3k rmp cruising in 3rd gear. Also feels like there is more pull just before full throttle and feels slighty bogged down on full throttle not sure what that means. The relay shaft ball fell apart so need to fix that before I can really enjoy it through the gears.




Power is up from 126.5 bhp and 135 lbft all this from odd bolt on inlet and standard exhaust and standard cam timing. Im sure I'll start tinkering with hardwear once I gain more tuning knowledge

 

Glad to hear it feels better over the std digifant engine controller. I did notice 7/8 pedal seemed to result in higher tractive effort when performing the steady state mapping. I would say check the throttle plate in relation to WOT.

Keep us posted on further developments.

May want to change you thread title though...

 

Nice - 11% Peak BHP increase, and 9 shiny new torques at peak (that = 25 8v 'talks' at current exchange rates) . Similar to the sort of results I got converting from Kjet. Nice to be getting the most out of the vagabonds head and 272 cam!

Almost peak torque all the way up from 2500 rpm as well!

I'm not surprised you've got a minor drivability issue - probably needs a bit of on-road fine tuning to dial that out, rather than on the rollers.

I'll check if I've got a Mk2 relay shaft kicking around, but I think I chucked nearly all the Mk2 stuff out. GSF used to sell them too.

 

Hi Mike.

This engine has a great spread of torque from 2300-5400rpm, meaning the driver does not have to stir it in high RPM to make quick progress.
Torque does drop off on the top end asssming good calibration settings, which I believe if more time was spent studying the data and vehicle, could be improved on, although not by not much, with careful hardware selection.

I expect some drive concerns, which would be used as a training oppertunity for KG to understand what is happening when the vehicle is taken on road for further refinement as I promised. 144 table cells X 2 to calibrate, at steady state or as a sweep means some will get missed!

KG did a very good job on the ECU integration. There were no debug issues pooping up when dyno tuning, allowing calibration to be successfuly iterative.

Good 8v this

 

Just finished fitting a brand new vag relay shaft so gears fully restored. In pure kg fashion I didnt tighten up the tps screw properly so both fell out and the TPS is barely attached to the TB therefore probably misreading and contributing to the running issues. Pretty sure the original vag blue coolant sensor is reading a few degrees over as it has hit 100 celsius on a few occasions on MS when all other indications pointed to the car temp being fine.

Does someone know the size and thread pattern of the tps screws so I can replace them tomorrow? Also the car is again stalling when cold so do I need to mess around with warm up tables?

edit: According to etka tps screws are M4x12 sound right?

 

just goimg back to this. Is it KL15 and pin 30 on one pin and ground on the other? I want to have a go at getting it to idle using the ISCV.

 

Ignore the above I have figured out the ISCV wiring. My TPS is reading between 43% and 71% max. Why is this?

 

Did you do a Tps calibration?

 

I tried the calibration this morning, again not exactly sure what I need to be doing there. I clicked on get current but not sure what do do from there.

Edit: seems to be reading ok now.

 

You go through a reset procedure in two stages, as far as I know.

1. throttle pedal fully up.
2. throttle pedal on the floor.

Been a while since I did it though.

 

TPS is all sorted. I tried wiring the iscv like so; pin 30 from ecu and switched 12v+ on the other pin. Is this correct? I fiddled around with the idle settings on the closed loop and it made no difference whatsoever so Im not even sure its running. Anyone got any tips on how to set the standard digi iscv on megasquirt?