Mk2 8v - Removing crankshaft pully wheel for belt change

You don't need to take the water pump off, or even the water pump pulley.... the lads are getting carried away with the scent of blood fron your skinned knuckles.

And the TV damper (TV = Torsional Vibration), AKA crank pulley, has asymmetric holes, so it only fits on one way. It might save you some messing about if you mark it first anyway.

 

cheers mike, i'll have a go on Fri & report back

 

I ended up hammering a socket piece on the outside and taking it off that way with a braker bar. Not elegant.

 

Take Starter Out And Get A Friend To Jam The Biggest Flat Blade,
Into Teeth Of Flywheel.

 

Got the blighter off today by hammering a socket over the top & managed to crack it with a large breaker bar :-)

Now - How to remove the one behind it??

 

i find welding a larger nut onto it always works!

 

Hey, my elegant method worked then.

Is that one stuck as well? You are not having any luck, time for the socket set with the breaker bar plan.

 

You mean the big bolt in the end of the crank? You don't need to remove it to do the cambelt.

 

Ive got the pully wheel removed, theres a bit that screws into needs to come off to get to the plastic cover?? I didnt have time to have a good look at it, i'll take another look tomorrow.

 

THis happened to me once before and the only way we could manage it was to remove the crank pulley with the cam belt sproket on by removing the large nut on the end of the crank shaft, then vice the sprocket and attack it with blowtorches, hammers and a piece of square section dowel hammered in, with a socket on the end (breathes). brutal and it took us an hr or so. we had already removed the starter and jammed it with, of all things, a mk 2 jag camshaft bearing (i'm sure a screw driver would suffice but the cam bearing enabled hands free locking) and tried numerous bars and the like but the allen keys kept bending!!. there probably was an easier way. We now have a gd quality hex/torx/spline 1/4 drive bit set.

Does the pulley have to go back on a certain way then, even if the holes are symettrical as in 2e engines? I did a belt change on a 2e a week or so ago , replacing tensioner and water pump and i have a wierd bearing sort of noise, could this be why? sorry to hijack

 

I think you do have to get the water pump pulley off to get the lower belt cover off. The lower cover is held on by 3 or 4 nuts/bolts, at least one of which is a hex bolt (5mm IIRC). You might be able to sneak the belt in behind the lower cover without fully removing it (ie with the water pump pulley still on) but I've never tried...

I have a large one handed spanner (camming jobby) that I use to hold the water pump pulley whilst I undo the three bolts, makes the job quite easy.

 

I take it none of you are using Snap-On tools then?

These things are TIGHT!!! I wouldn't even contemplating trying to remove one without, at the very least, a high quality allen key socket and a breaker bar.

 

Draper...

they're only as tight as they were last tightened, plus a bit for each year they have rusted up

there is a torque setting on the haynes for these bolts

 

It's about the 230 foot pounds if memory serves - something crazy like that anyway.

 

you shouldn't need to mark the pulley as the crank timing sprocket has a small tit on it that will match up with a recess on the pulley! it'll only go on one way.

 

I'm sure the last one I did had uneven spacing of the bolts so it would only go on one way... it was a while ago though.