Please help, I'm being raped by VW :(

Sorry to hear about the unexpected bill you received from VW. I am sorry if this isn't the place, but just wanted to say that I have limited mechanical experience, but to find a local garage with experienced mechanics who know their older cars (ideally look for ones with VWs/classics/stock cars etc in the carpark that belong to them/are their own projects etc) is such a godsend.
I recently had to have a lot of work done on my mk1. I am no expert, so my way of looking at these things if you don't have anyone you know or from ClubGTI to help in person is:
1) Get the problem diagnosed and get a written quotation. Use more than one garage if the quote seems very steep or you don't trust it. Check quote before allowing work to commence.
2) Check the garage will allow you to supply your own parts that you will source online from GSF or clasifieds here for example.
3) Once happy with quote and have dropped car off, get a date that the garage anticipate your car being returned. If you don't want it back in a hurry, then they might appreciate a few days grace so they can plan other work around yours if it's a busy period. Be nice to them and they should (but not necessarily) be nice back.
4) Give contact telephone numbers where you know you can be reached and express that anything extra must be cleared with you first.
5) Before you collect car, check the bill again over the phone and query anything not in the quotation.

One other thing - check mileage. We spotted one garage in Sussex using my ex's dad's Land Rover (which was in for repairs) being used to recover another vehicle locally!!!!!! We took a photo of the landy and its plate being used unlawfully and they got a slot on "Garages from Hell"!

Sorry if this is common sense advice, but I hope you might be able to benefit from it in future when looking at getting work done.
Good luck with getting it sorted.

 

Just got a call from VW. I explained my situation again, & Explained I could give them a link to this thread. They said they can't use any information from the thread, & also with me creating a thread itcould be classed as slanderous, & they had to protect the VW brand. I told them I only have a problem with this garage, not VW itself. I told them my mum has a disability car from VW & the main dealer she takes it to always gives her good service. The garage I took it to was a VW authorised dealer/repairer. They then told me I should take the car back to the garage itself to look at the new problems arisen from the work done. I told them my car would never ever go to that garage again, I would sooner be down 500 & learn an expensive lesson than ever take it there. They then said they'll ring the garage, phone the main VW tech to check they were right to deny work doing. Everytime I've told them it's a mk1 gti they say I can see why you'd be unhappy & they'd be feeling the same. They said If i'm in the right the car will be taken to the garage where my mum takes hers, & fixed. I will be hopefully be hearing back from them before christmas with an update, then hopefully can be resolved after the bank holidays.
Sooo hope you have all have a great Christmas, take care, Stay safe & have a drink for everyone who couldn't make it this year.

 

If they had any idea what they were talking about, they'd know that this is potentially libellous, not slanderous. Slander is spoken, libel is written

Sadly, I think you'll get nowhere with this. You've been had by the oldest trick in the garage book. "ooh dear we've found something else needs doing on top of the initial job"

You can get an aftermarket sump for 20 and a gasket for about 10 or 15. Ask the local members for a decent garage near you, or learn to fix it yourself. Mk1's are not complicated.

As for the jacking area on the sill, it's probably just one of those things. On an older car, the sills could be getting weaker over time, with a bit of corrosion, unless you happen to know that they were replaced recently.

On the upside, you have a rare and desirable classic car. If you give it a bit of TLC and look after it well, it will only go up in value. Just don't do it at main dealer prices, or at the local chain bodge and scarper merchants. Take it to someone who owns the business, and wants to keep the same customers coming back.

 

Really sorry to hear about this. This is the exact reason I am a self taught mechanic and do all my own work now. I only take my cars to a garage for the MOT.

My reason for this...

I once had a 300zx twin turbo a number of years ago, I took it to a "300zx specialist" for a 60k service and cambelt change. They did the work but said that the main loom was damaged due to age. No this was 100% fine when the car went in for the work. The mechanic had broken all the coil pack connectors as they did not know how to remove them properly!! This effected the running of the car badly. They then blamed it on being an old car and said if I wanted it fixed it would be 1000!! I was well and truly stitched

I really hope you get somewhere with your complaint. Just keep on at them dont let them off scott free.

 

Where can I find an aftermarket sump for 20? & I'm guessing the gasket you mention is for the sump itself? I would have a go at fitting it myself, but I would need a step by step guide.

 

www.gsfcarparts.com

Don't got fitting a sump yourself - it's plagued with thread stripping opportunities at each end. I think it's clear you need someone to do this for you, whether it's a trusting garage or one of those who've offered to help you on this thread.

 

mate call me I still want to help

 

hi mate I've been meaning to text you & ask your garages opening times over Christmas/new year & I'll bring it in.

 

GSF / EuroCarParts / VWSpares.co.uk

Chances are you don't even need a new sump, although they can suffer from dents or corrosion over time. Have you got under it and had a look?

Changing a sump is fairly easy, especially in a car that doesn't have PAS

1. Empty the oil out
2. Undo the bolts progressively and drop the sump off
3. Clean up the mating face for the gasket.
4. Fit new RUBBER gasket and new sump.
5. Tighten up the bolts progressively, to the recommended torque
6. Refill engine with oil.

A Haynes manual is a good investment if you're not an experienced mechanic, and a 1/4" drive socket set is good for working in tight, delicate areas, where you don't want to over-torque bolts and strip threads.

Looks like you've got lots of willing helpers... take them up on their offer and buy them a curry afterwards.

 

And beer. Everyone loves beer.

 

Hello again, I phoned GSF earlier & a branch near me had the sump pan, cork gasket & the new plug/washer included. Bought a trolley Jack while I was there & went to halfords for a small torque bar but didn't have enough, will be getting one boxing day along with the engine oil( can anyone recommend a good oil, & also would I need 5ltrs? They had castrol at GSF but in 4ltrs.
I will make a new thread regarding the sump, does anyone know the torque settings for the sump bolts? And what would you recommend cleaning the actual face which the gasket sits? Will I need any gasket paste and if so which side of the gasket do I put the paste? GSF said they didn't know of it needing paste but my haynes manual said to use paste?

 

The bolts are M10 - torque value is in the Haynes manual. A small & accurate torque wrench is needed if you torque them, as the scale needs to operate at those low torques. Otherwise by hand, by feel.

The cork gasket is poor for sealing. Suggest you change it for the one with the rubber ridges - the saving is not worth it.

 

Sorry, correction: 10mm socket required, M6 thread (ie 6mm) - small, easily strippable...

 

I can't find the torque settings for the bolts in the haynes manual. There were two wrenches, one very large one & a smaller one which looks like the one I'll need, the cork gasket was due to the year of the car, if I'm to change it it'll have be boxing day.