Pro's and Con's 20vt or 2.1 ABF

Fair call with extra safety

No thread on the 1.2, secrets for the moment... There are a lot of unique challenges, for instance the crank is considered a non-service item... When you unbolt the mains the block can twist

In my opinion you need full 3D control of timing for fuel and ignition as well as fuel volume as a minimum, plus everything that supports that. I am on MoTeC, previously used Autronic and a cheaper EMS before that, however the most important thing is a good tuner and using a system they are happy with. (Including the support available) I have friends on Haltech that are very happy. In Australia the after sales tech and tuning support for MoTeC is untouchable, and they happen to be one of the world best products (and I race with a few of the guys) but your situation will be different

 

There is ofcourse the peace of mind that the engine is bullet proof... by spending quite something, while for the current 290 - 300 hp target there is no real need.
The Seat Leon Cup cars ran 260 hp ( and a bit more) in racing conditions with fully std BAM /APX engines, apart a bafled sump and a few extra sensors.
These were bulletproof under harsh conditions..... so keep it simple and cheap .... the chance your engine will expierence more strain at a trackday ? .... even at 300 hp

To start with trackdays in a 300 hp car is more than enough to cope .... and develop the chassis over the next years....and then build a proper engine

 

^^ Also those Cup cars were much heavier than a Mk2 Golf, so at an estimated 300 PS and more importantly the desired torque, this should not be a 'strain'.

The only items I would pay attention on those (and I am sure HPR would agree) would be valve train wear and conrods that are a bit more robust. The rest of std stuff for a 300 ps / 300 lbft engine in a light shell, no issue.

 

Good point on ECUs. Your point was the exact reason this was not mentioned. Here in Europe, it is fairly common knowledge that the OE ME7.5 system can be calibrated to deliver control of 20vT engines to 600 + bhp. Quite a few tuners do have an understanding of this control system here. Therefore an SEM is not required.

 

Thankyou Hugo, Eddie. Much appreciated.

With my sensible head on, I doubt I will exceed the 290-300 mark. In a relatively light FWD car with no electronic gadgetry and a clever diff, would there be any point? I dont think so.

So, nice and simple then. Head refresh, rods, shells, hone the bores, new rings and obviously gaskets, seals etc etc.

Been thinking about suspension. At the moment I have eibach anti roll bars, powerflex bushes all round, bilstein b4 dampers and eibach springs.

I was thinking of swapping out the dampers and springs for a decent set of coilovers with adjustable damping. Any suggestions? GAZ seem highly rated?

For now I will stick the SEAT 280mm calipers on and see how I get on with those.

It was always the intention to keep the ecu anyway.

Again, thankyou for everyones input. Always appreciated.

 

To be fair what you have is fine until you learn to push on with the car. No need to waste money until you know how it feels for you.

In a 1.8T Mk2 the headline 260bhp @ 6000 rpm is not your problem. It is the torque that can be delivered at low rpms is what needs to be controlled. This can be 280+ lbft from 3500rpm or so pending mapping. In raw terms a big shunt in 3rd gear from early with equivalent torque more than a mapped R32 engine.

I and others used BC racing suspension as intermediate track day suspension. You can get these from Corby motorsport. Not essential until you want more chassis control. ARBs are std GTI items in my car with chassis control purely on spring rate. I also use the car daily so it is a compromise.
In addition you would need to have your bushings and so forth in good condition + suitable tracking. No need to go mad, just cover the basics.

AST or KW is what is the preferred stepping stone for the more advanced. Jtech on here can help where that is concerned.

 

Cheers Eddie. I didnt know Corby had such a place! Thats good to know, as its only down the road.

I bought the powerflex bushes, eibach roll bars, suspension and vibratechnic engine mounts over a year and a half ago. They are currently buried somewhere in the debths of my lock-up. lol So its all there already.

 

Nothing wrong to refresh the engine...Hone the bores... imo its a machineshop job only, DONT DO a diy flex hone attempt...
ive seen quite a number diy jobbies that made the bores worse... and even total destruction on a 2000 km Seat Leon Cup engine that needed another block....ask Will

 

Corby motorsports tend to be the cheapest place for the gaz gold coil overs.
I was tempted but stuck with rebuilt koni adjustables and eibach springs, but that's for a fast road car.

If you save money from the engine then it would be better to use it on brakes or that clever diff.

 

Not something I would like to do Hugo. For head and block work, I usually use Northampton Automotive Services. Dont know if you know of them? Simon is the guy who owns it. Really nice bloke and loves to take the time to explain things. Phoned him a few days ago to book them in. Although booked until Easter, he said he would do them straight away, which is great.

Will have to remember to ask Will when I next see him. Somebody was gutted! lol

 

Looks like I should have quite a bit left in the kitty. Might pop over there in the next week or two. Mate said he would give me what I paid for the Bilstein and Eibach, which is another bonus.

Diff wise, not sure yet. Something to think about though.

Need to pull my finger out and get the engine out of the Ibiza and pull it apart. I reckon its had a hard life, so hoping its not too bad. No service history either, except for turbo and dyno graphs at badger 5.
13 owners since 2001. So surely been ragged to death!

Still goes well though! I was genuinely shocked to be honest! lol

Just to add, it will be a road car, with a few trackdays here and there. Which is why I would like adjustable damping.

 

If it is a road car more than a track car the current system will be fine. Get a feel on the track first before fitting brand names to the vehicle.

 

Suspension and Diff wise Eddie?

Not bothered about brand names. As long as the parts do what they say on the tin, thats what counts.

Just to add. I'm hoping not to have to change much, if anything, in the future. Hoping I can get it right first time round with the help and advice from here.
Would hate to have to start drilling holes etc etc once its been painted! lol

 

Diff yes. The rest is a tailored process.

 

Generally speaking, will the gearbox be strong enough for sub 300? Is there an oe diff in there already?

 

I run an 02J with Quaife LSD and apart from 5th stripping the teeth due to low oil, it`s been absolutely fine. Gurds runs the same box, Peloquin diff but zero issues with the gearbox handling the torque

 

Thanks Nige.

At the moment, in Ibiza, the car pulls hard AND stays in a straight line. Even more so than the MK4 I had which I had a Wavetrac diff put in. I take it this is due to the traction control system?

But then again, so did the MK4.

 

Gurdip runs a wavetrac diff with zero issues.

 

I knew it wasn`t a Quaife lol

 

Bilsteins: from my experience they make some good uprated dampers, wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to bin these
Jon