Pro's and Con's 20vt or 2.1 ABF

These ones are B4's. I was thinking that a set of coilovers could be adjusted and stiffened for a little track use, then softened again for the road.

 

You sure?!

lol

 

What are your plans for the brakes? Reason I'm asking is I have 280mm grooved disks on my MK2 Ibiza 16v and they are very good for road use but I want to do the occasional track day. I was planning to fit a different compound pad just for track days so I'm interested in the path you take.

Cheers

Paul

 

Not too sure at the moment Mate. I might go for the Ferrodo DS2500 pads for the odd track day. Not sure what they are like for everyday driving though.

 

As an experiment, I have just done two tarmac rallies using std G60 front brakes, proper fluid, plastic caliper cooling wings, braided lines and red stuff pads. Reasoning is its near zero degrees, icy, damp tarmac and too much brake is worse than too little.
Results: surprising. I could match anybody on the brakes into chicanes. The whole setup had sufficient power and didn't fade. They were working that hard the front wheels were probably 70-90C (too hot to touch!) back in the pits.
Wear rate good.
Lesson learnt: winter you can get away with cheap brake pads rallying. I remember year ago trying EBC pads and they were crap. The greens were a joke.
My default setup is usually four pots and DS3000
Jon

 

I used DS2500 pads on the road for some years and liked them, cold it feels like an oem pad and its great when pushing quite hard
imo its not to different to what nowadays is used as oem pads

 

DS2500 agree , great pads also (arguably all you will ever need, 3000's probably OTT)
Ducting air into/out of brakes massively important, if you use them to their max
Jon

 

Only problem is that they can squeal on road a little bit

 

Interesting comments about grip levels and the use of different compounds, to match driver confidence.
IMO DS2500 pads on the 280 mm Golf G60/Corrado G60 Girling set up are ok pads for general road use and average for track use.
On a dry day with sticky A048s/R888s, the frictional levels of the DS3000 pad or an equivalent is preferred for pushing on. For an even more progressive feel from out the pits is the CL RC6 pads.
The latter do suffer from high dust and noise, so removing after a track day is recommended. Only takes 10 mins to do.

 

I wouldn't touch DS3000's again tbh. Too aggressive and easy to lock up when they get up to temp. The compound is older than Jesus now, much better options out there imo, particularly for lighter cars.

 

I run PFC-01 compound on my Mk1 race car

 

I did a rally on 888 using 3000's (well 1st four stages, gearbox failed) and they may be a good track tyre but the 3000's overwhelmed them braking. It was fresh tarmac/concrete so very very abrasive.
Still like the 3000's but only with enough of the right type tyre, on warm day.
Jon

 

I am no race driver and they work fine on my car on the track. I do not use them on the road though. Yes there are better options.

 

Cheers for the input. I reckon I will give the DS2500 pads a go then.

Started to put a list together for a light engine rebuild. Just waiting for a few replies with prices. Next week I will pull the engine out and start on it.

So more questions to come! lol

Obviously I wont be running air conditioning or power steering, so I was wondering what alternator belt I need to use??

Is it safe to assume that the R888's are a decent tyre to use on the road, aswell as on a track? In wet and dry conditions??

 

I would just put the engine in and run the car as is. Get a good feel for it and spend the time developing the chassis as you see the need.

That is how I would do it. 260bhp and 250-280lbft is way more than your 2.1 would have ever been. Think about that.

"Do be like the rest of the internet! David is smart, be like David" lol

 

No, it's not safe to assume that! R888's might be road legal but they are best left to the track. Road surface will cut them up and in the wet/winter you'll be tip-toeing around. Mostly road with a bit of track, look at something like the Yoko AD08R, good all round tyre.

 

Cant do it Eddie. I know that the kid who had it ragged it about for a start. So I NEED to check it out inside. It would bug me every waking moment if I didnt and probably haunt me in my dreams! lol
Then theres the fact that I am going to alot of trouble with my MK2 body and paint wise. So no way I can stick a dirty engine in a nice fresh bay.
The cam cover has been very poorly spray can painted for a start! Need to paint the block and clean everything up. Might use crinkle paint on the intake manifold and cam cover. Nope, I want it nice and fresh looking too. lol

No, I have to do it mate. All advice taken on board though. So a nice and simple refresh with new rings, uprated rods, shells, seals etc etc. Nothing over the top and not needed.
Will then get VRS to map it again. Should get up to around 290ish. Will have to see. At least I will know its in good health internally.

Just to add, considering I dont need half of what I thought I might, I think I will keep the ABF and wait for something to come up that I can stick it in. The Ibiza might be an option as a dedicated track car if I like these track days.
Will just need to keep it road legal. Cant be doing with tow vehicles and trailers!

Appreciate the sentiment though! lol

AND, just remember, the Ibiza has had 13 owners since 2001. I cant imagine the rest of them drove it with tender loving care. lol

 

Cheers HummuH. I might just get a set and throw them on a set of steel wheels for when its time to play.

 

If you can afford to have a spare set of wheels with your track tyres on, that's the way forward

 

Would the original MK2 16v fuel pump run a sub 300bhp engine without any issues?