Of course theres no comparison to a sub in a decent enclosure... But a sub in the boot isn't everybodys cup of tea. It is indeed my cup of tea, I've got a magnat XTC1200 12" in a custom ported 2.0 cu feet box. If you want simple cheap sound then I'd get some 6x9's. I don't like them, and I would NEVER have them in my car, but its a compromise between comps and a sub. Con
6x9's are no where near a compromise components alone are better than 6x9's i wouldn't recomend 6x9's to anyone.
theres no bass with 6x9's there just funny shaped coaxials designed to fin into a parcel shelf so the subs in the boot destroy them
Dude, have you ever heard a pair? I don't like them either, but to say they create no bass is absolute testicles. The fact that you can actually buy 6x9 shaped sub woofers now, and they are good subs, tells me you are very wrong. Yes if they were in the parcel shelf with a sub in the boot it wouldn't do them any good, as they'd be fighting for air, but this person doesn't want a sub in the boot?? Your talking poo now
do GFS or ECP stock them? i'm bidding on a pair at the mo, but they're up to 16 + 5 postage! btw, have you ever chatted on quakenet?
the only 6x9's i'd have would be genesis but they aren't really 6x9's there rather special 6x9's will not play past 50hz which is real bass and bass will easily drop to 30hz and they have no chance components and a sub even a 8" sub will over power 6x9's there is no reason for them at all
Hi I have a brand new pair here, PM me and I could send them to you, they were on the car for 2 months, I'm the first owner of them etc, genuine VAG part
I can't be arsed with this pointless discussion with you. Yes I've already said components and a sub are far superior to any pair of 6x9's you can buy, but the person who is going to be owning this install has ruled out any sub in the boot, no matter what size. As they've said they do not want a sub, components alone would be far worse than a pair of 6x9's or a pair of 6x9s AND front components. There is no point in this debate, because you aren't adhering to the needs of the person doing the install. Con
it would b better to mount 2 8" subs in the shelf but box them off in the shelf 6x9's produce no bass it's just mid bass same as components but more cluttered sound wise there are ways to get bass without a sub but it won't sound as good it'll cost more and it'll take alot of time and effort it's possible to fit 8" sub into the passenger footwell just needs carefull planning etc
hm... remember #linuxoutlaws? I'm Luci just checked and there's no wiring at all from the car into the door, so i may have to rethink this somewhat...
That dudes not listened to a word I've said quite frankly. You dont want a sub, so its not an option. Can't be arsed to say anything more about that. I don't remember what channels I used to visit, it was some time ago that I opened IRC, I work with computers all day now so I don't tend to do much with them in the evenings if I can help it! Thats not a problem on the mk2 Kieran. My GL didn't have any speaker wire in the doors. It isn't hard to do, you quite simply remove the door card by unscrewing all the door furniture. Then you drill a hole in the door card behind the speaker grille. In the side of the door, you will see various rubber grommets that could be removed to fit things such as electric windows. You need to take the gromet out, cut a hole in it, feed the speaker cable through it and plug it back into the side of the door. Now where the door meets up with the door frame on the car, there will be holes/grommets here too. You need to cut a whole in the gromet and feed through, then rmeove the fuse box cover, and feed it under there, and work along the dash until it comes out in the head unit housing. You may wish to use a piece of coat hanger to aid the wires in finding their way to the housing, theres alot of crap behind the dash. Once you've fed all the cable through, you need to put the door card back on the door, and re-atach all the door furniture. now fit the speaker in the grille and screw the grille into the doorpods. Once this side is complete, repeat all the procedures for the other side, feeding the wires undre the glove box etc. you can stealth it all quite easily. If this makes any sense to anyone, then perhaps it could be posted into ICE Faqs entitled "How to fit door speakers in mk2s" Its highly likely that I've waffled a load of pooe, which makes absolutely no sense at all, because I'm stone d out my face. Con
www.talkaudio.co.uk ask teh pros for no sub bass but it's set of 6.5" comps will get a bit of punch but not low and wobbly
Jeez, I finally get some sleep for a few days and all this happens while I'm not looking Two separate concepts for you (every day's a schoolday): Stereo image - the correct blending of frequencies and their direction towards your ears to form a realistic sound image. Putting the separate components of a good component set with their axes more than 6" apart will destroy any chance of them ever creating a realistic image (unless you employ expensive electronic trickery - see later). 2-way coaxials are close to ideal in this regard for "simple, cheap installs", as they (a) fit the stock locations, and (b) woofer and tweeter are coaxial so the imaging is as good as it can be given the limitations of the speaker format. Sure, it's a compromise compared to a separates/offboard crossover set-up, but on a low budget it sounds great. Soundstage - Have to state the obvious here, but you listen with your ears. Sorry for that, but some of the posts so far in this thread made me seriously doubt that one of you knew that. Hence a system that plays to your knees is no use. You need to raise the soundstage as close to ear level as possible, hence me using the factory dash location for my "simple cheap install" instead of bolting speakers to the door kick panels. With expensive separate components you can use kick-ass active crossovers and time-alignment software to fool the ears into thinking that the soundstage is perfect pretty much regardless of where the speakers are mounted, but we don't have that kind of budget here. All this nonsense about window-shaking installs and the lameness of components is due to poor installation and not understanding the two simple concepts outlined above. If I could afford it (and if I wanted to cut my Golf's interior about, which I definitely don't as it's original and mint), I'd be running bass/midbass/tweeter separates with offboard crossovers up front, a great pair of 6x9s for rear fill, the 8" sub I already have, separate amps for each circuit,and a DSP for time-alignment. However, the 2-way coaxial 3.5" Infinitys up front, 6x9" 3-way Infinitys in the rear, Alpine CD-tuner and CD-shuttle and Eminence/Alpine sub build do me just fine, and sound great. My knuckles do not drag on the ground, so I don't need an install which will wake pensioners at 2 miles and shake paint off lamp-posts; I prefer to hear the quality of the musicianship and the nuances of an artist's vocal talent. Take your Burberry capoff and LISTEN.
Accurate information there, but I resent your last post... "Take your burberry cap off and LISTEN". However amusing this may be for you I like pounding bass, it's how I'd expect to hear my type of music in a club (heavy breakbeats). An 8" sub is never going to go that low.
not bein funny but look at all the iasca SQ competion cars even the cheapes installs that compete don't run 6x9's they don't run any rear fill at all just components some run 3 way comps and a sub in the rear if you think your right get on the sq section of talkaudio and tell all the pro's who have been competing for years that they'v been doing it all wrong for the last however many years as for burburry never touched the stuff i'm a loose fit jeans and hoodies man as i'm an extreme sports sort of person and have the colthes that go with the lifestyle there are 3 main installs sq, spl, and sql, all personal preference to which u prefer i enjoy spl installs but don't really see the point in building an install you can't listen to music on sq is fine but not for me sql is where i am everytime juct check bassnazi's rover on talkaudio for an awesome car for sql !
I agree about rear fill; I like it, some don't. Withmy 3.5" components up front, a bit of bass reinforcement was necessary. The parcel shelf mounting of the 6x9s plus their reflection off the rear screen also serves to raise the soundstage further. The sub is there just to compensate for road noise/absorption/baffling effect. The whole system's cost me less than 600 (excluding labour/installation costs 'cos I did it myself), mainly thanks to spotting stuff I liked the spec of and then shopping for it on eBay,and the sound-to- ratio is spot-on in my opinion. That'll be the last time I joke about chav bassheads then - no offence meant
i may take them off your hands, if i lose these ones on ebay... what i'm thinking at the moment is: 2 of these in an 18mm mdf parcel shelf, i've already got this and it sounds pretty good... i'll power them off a small amp. next, 3.5" speakers in the dash and probably 5.25"'s in the doors, assuming it's not too much hassle to run the wires through. these two running straight off the HU. if i find a need more bass, i'll pop in a sub, but i doubt it'll be necessary... Edited by: KieranC
Surely infill is a fact of mind. Which way to your ears point? Why do you need sound coming from the hardest place to hear. components up front and a nice sub in the boot. Thats all i've done, i swap between a 10" JL WO and 8" Rockford sub.
