simplest way of converting a 1990 mk2 PB to VR6

as title. I have a 96 complete VR6 which i may break and use the engine in a mk2. Need to know the easiest way of doing this. Would leaving engine/subframe/hubs/legs/wishbones intact be an option, bolting it up to the mk2 in one go? Also I realise its an OBD2 so do I need the ignition key etc.. too?

 

have fun trying to move that lot in one go.

Front end and Rad off (leaves pipes on engine). disconnect battery leads from engine. Pop the driveshafts off via the splined bolts on the gearbox. disconnect the main wiring plug at the back of the engine. disocnnect the exhaust at the downpipe/cat. disconnect the heater hoses. pull the engine out with the downpipe attached.

rip everything out of the mk2. same way, front end and rad off, engine outs. wap the mk3 subframe over, then the wiring harness, hyd clutch setup etc. then lift the engine in and connect everything up. once it's up and running back on with the front panel and driveshafts.

easy.

Your chocie whether you want to stay 4 stod of go 5stud. you can use the whole mk2 setup if you like (providing you upgrade to 280mm brakes as a minimum).

yes you'll need the key, transponder pick up ring off the barrel and the black box to the left of the clocks.

 

Right thats a good start. what about the wiring, do I have to swap fuse box etc or what? also any changes to the fuel pump?

 

nope, the 1990 8v is the perfect base car. leave the fusebox in. just pop out the 3 big white engine plugs and the 4 pin white wiper motor one and drag it through.

leave the lighting loom in the mk2. on the mk3 loom strip out the lighting loom (yellow plugs). your fuel pump and lines are fine. just pop off the rubber hoses in the engine bay and the vr6 ones will fit stright on the plastic fuel lines.

hardest part is the cable shifter and the pedal box, the engine is practially bolt in.

don't forget to shorten the rear engine mount and nothch the front bracket to drop the front of the motor. and bend the dipstick so it sits between the runner so it's not tucked under the slam panel.

Corrado VR6 fan, fans and top hose. there's one for sale on here for 60 i think, bargain.

 

thanks for all the info, very clear (I think) I have replaced the cables on my carrodo box before and it wasnt too bad, same sort of thing involved here?

How do I shorten the engine mount and what exactly do I do to the front bracket?

I take it I cant use the mk3 fan/rad?

 

www.mk2vr6.com

you have to make the shifter unit fit the golf tunnel, not htat hard really.

You cut a little vee in the side of the mount and bend it up then reweld them. lowers the front of the motor a little.

You can use the mk3 rad but it's huge so you'll need to make custom brackets to fit it and butcher the fonrt panel for the fan surorund. Corrado one looks factory.

 

thanks for the link, I read the newbie conversion guide but a lot of it seems vague. I now have even more questions please see below. some maybe clashing but thats because Im not sure which stud pattern to go with.

1, will I need the mk3 pedal box
2, is it easier to stick to cable clutch?
3, will mk2 front wishbones fit mk3 sub?
4, will mk3 rear beam fit mk2 shell?
5, any pics of modified mount/brackets?

 

1. no, doesn't fit. you need a corrado/passat one.
2. easier yes, but doesn't work as well
3. yes, but change to poly bushes and buy mk3 fitment ones.
4. yes
5. no

 

so how whould I stick to cable clutch?

 

I'm not telling you, because it's rubbish. do it right and go hydraulic.

 

and now you advertise the car as breaking with all parts available?! are you going to convert it or not?

 

i agree with phatty on this one.Takes slightly longer but while the engine is out your better off converting to hydro clutch.Use either passat or corrado item, just needs a slight mod with the bracket on the pedal box that bolts its up under the steering column, bit of bulkhead beating and drill a hole pretty much job done

 

oops forgot to take the engine bit out, cheers

 

sorry for going on but was wondering if the mk2 subframe would take the VR engine or do I deffo need to use the mk3 sub?

 

no, engine mounting turrets are completely different so you need the mk3 one.

 

use the mk3 one and cut the little tabs off it too before you put it on.They are there for when its mounted to a mk3

 

He's on about he bits behind the ARB mount. nothing for them to bolt to on a mk2 so chop them off (leave enough for the ARB of course)

 

Right I removed the engine and gearbox today. This is a fairly budget project which is only taking place as we have a spare mk2 which is not worth selling. Keeping this in mind is there any essential works which I should carry out before refitting the engine?

 

I have a friend who has a vibratechincs solid front engine mount. Apparently this will be allow me to bolt the block to the original mk2 cross member. Can anyone varify this. Exploring this option as it maybe the cheapest thus far.

 

have you cut down the rear drivers side mk3 vr6 mount?im not too sure for the front mount,i wasnt aware vibratechnics did a 'solid' mount.either way if you fit it check the height of the engine in comparison to the bonnet