just run wot you want, OEM is how we went around the situation, which i`m well happy with, if you go the same way you won`t be dissapointed
prof, i have thought about the 20vt ecu on a vr6!!!! like pops said, do it the way u wish, it just seems silly to go and spend a grand, when u throw a perfectly good ecu away, just cos u cant work out how to wire it up, and de-immobilize it.
Haha @ prof. How can I attach a picture ? Emerald and the others are just as good as the standard management for NA cars, that arnt quite as likely to destroy themself, but for a forced induction cars, the extra things like twin lambda sensors, knock sensors boost control etc etc etc make it far, far more suitable. It's nearly a case of proper tools, proper job it's so much better..
well put! i went for Me 7.5(bosch OE) on my 1.8T and its excellent, i think the additional sensors allow far more accurate monitoring, and control, critical on this engine! there are just too many advantages over the aftermarket ems's, its very much down to opinion tho! Edited by: Mr T
Give him a chance to answer. Sometimes people do go away for the weekend and not able to get on the forum!!!
What!!! I would have though that a man about town like 800g would have at least have carried around his I Pak at all times??
it's debatable whether knock sensors are a) useless b) worse than useless. proper knock control would monitor individual cylinders and be able to be fast enough to make alterations to the next cycle. lumping cylinders together is twaddle and you'll find yourself running way under the ideal spark advance line most of the time. there are about 5 different main categories of knock and each of these having sub-categories - it's very difficult for an ECU to distinguish between them and usually gets it wrong (or doesn't distinguish). the reason OEM's spend millions on the ECU calibrations is for 3 reasons - emissions, emissions and emissions - everything else is secondary. Processing times may be quicker but they are not the bottleneck in the system - rather the actuators i.e. injectors. getting performance is easy and takes little doing tt
If your injectors are matched then their is no need to trim cylinders separately on a 20V.... There is on a VR6 as the back outer most cylinders run well hot....
no 2 cylinders run identically - ever. on SI gasoline engines the problem of cylinder-cylinder variation and cyclic dispersion (variation from cycle to the next) is a big problem. if you lump 2 cylinders together then the limiting factor in their performance is the poorest performing one. even worse for 4 cylinders or more lumped together. then there is the problem of knock from one of the other cylinders/cylinder pairs interfering with the signal in the others. why is there so much money being spoent on R&D at the moment on alternative methods of knock detection. because it's crap their still used though because it's all there is at the moment. for max power and torque though you're better off running without. when was the last time you saw a race engine with knock control? Never. tt
Just a simple question, I got told by a specialist that with the aftermarket ecu's except motech, the 1.8t's are sweet when driven hard but have problems finding a decent idle, so notchy around time driving, is this true???
I get your point guys. OE ECUs will be fine for most applications. There is no need to go for the base aftermarket ECUs, pointless. Its been mentioned as a waste of money throwing away a perfectly good OE ECU. The only reason aftermarket ECUs should be used in this context, is when you are pushing out serious power. And the OE ECU does not have the ability to interface with other sensors etc. Thats my opinon on it all. It really comes down to the uses of the car and what sort of output it has.
