The aim is to trailer it as I have as nice comfy 4x4 to run round in, I think Ill MOT it so I can road test it and generally hoon about when the mood takes me. Because I wanted to use a rear rad it cuts down on the space for fuel tanks/tank so the only thing I can fit is two small tanks, as long as they will last a 20 min session Ill be happy. Clutch could be a bit of an issue as I have a problem with my left knee, floating bone fragments and a stiff clutch give me a limp for a few days, but if its just for short sessions it should be ok, if not Im sure I can alter the clutch system (two master cylinders off one pedal) so the pressure required to operate them can be reduced. The accelerator pedals have double springs fitted on each, by removing one spring from each they become quite light so that should be ok. Im hoping to keep the heat from the rear to a minimum, there will be an aluminium firewall possibly with some form of heat shielding. Because the car is designed only for track use the heat thing was at the fore front of my mind hence the rear rad and more air ducts than a chavs nova, the roof duct will have the IC just under it and once the air has gone through the cooler it will blow on the engine before exiting through the rear window, vents in the rear quarter glass aperture for the engine air intake and a 23 row oil cooler. Im not sure if itll work yet but I want to louver the rear screen like the F40s to help the hot air exit, the rear panel and rear bumper will look like a Swiss cheese for the hot air to exit the radiator chamber. With it being used for short sessions the noise should be ok, a helmet and ear plugs should keep it bearable, passengers will get an old leather flying helmet to add to the fear What and where was the fuel tank on yours?
Behind the seats in front of the rear engine. Fuel tank held about 20 worth. The nitrous was fixed on top of the fuel tank. I sectioned the rear engine off behind the front seats and then had a panel which slid over the engine. With the panel on the rear engine noise was bareable without helmet/ear plugs but engine temperatures did get a bit high on a hot day or when racing. Quick fix was to remove the sliding panel and open the front windows - then air came in through the windows before going over the engine and out the rear. What are you doing exhaust wise? As you can see from the picture above, heat wrap was used and made a big difference (along with increasing exhaust temperatures to the extent that flames were produced on overrun).
lower platform for the fire wall, the floor under the rear seats is like the north sea so this gives it a nice flat section 'top hat' section to give clearance for the harness on the next upper brace bar once the ally firewall is fitted brace from the cage to shell + on right is the top ic mount
i'd love to see more of the frame work. The fuel tanks are Jazz drag race tanks, cant remember if they are 4 or 5 gal each, AN12 fittings though so they need to be reduced but they were the only thing I could find + I wanted a tank that was seamless spun polly for obvious reasons. Exhaust wise Im not sure yet, think the front engine will have a side exit, Ive left enough room for the rear exhaust to sit at the rear of the sumframe but in front of the rear rad area, only enough room for one long box like a smaller version of Rob Ts, same again heat insulation to keep the heat away from the rad etc, air flow through ic then on engine should keep the exhaust temps below melting point. Im thinking about a small 3 diffuser in front of the rear engine but under the car to lift a little air into the rear bay, suppose itll be a development thing once its running.
Two identical MK4 20v boxes both with Peloquin diff’s, cable change frame is already made for the rear box but just need to sort out the rose joint connections to the cable change leaver.
sounds quite good how did you find all the info out ion how to do all this?? great project and mine pales in comparison mate
one of the two fuel tanks, going to be fitted on the rear quaters, filling will be through where the quater glass used to be
Just guessing, spent many an hour just staring at it till I came up with a solution, lack of space is the main problem, cant even get the battery inside the car, think its going to have to go under the bonnet again.
WOW, can't wait to see it finished! Love to see some more detail of how you've fitted the rear subframe to the chassis, was thinking of doing something similar on a mk2 golf
ile try and get down there next week,(ile ask if I can take photo`s and post them)he`s going to make me some brackets to fit brembo`s to the mk1 so hopefully update next week