I left the isv run for ages, still no difference, i even charged the battery up to full yesterday, even though i have a new alternator, leads and battery - no difference. I even changed the oil desperate but no difference LoL I may video the rev counter and you can here the engine as well and post it on here!
Another update (i must be boring you now) LoL Most times when i start her and she just catcheds, but ticks over very low around 100-200rpm when i hit the accelerator i hear a clong noise, then she is fine! I check the metering head disc flap - it was free and was not sticking. Also i ahve ruled out the TB flaps as you don't need this to idle! It sound like a flap more than an engine mount, is there any flaps that would stick and make that noise?? (this is the only time i hear this, so it has to be related) Thanks again!
Only thing I can think off is the metering head! Have a fiddle with it 1st thing in the morning (then have a look at the metering head when you've finished )
I did this the other day, made sure the top metal flap was not stuck and i opened and closed it a few times, but it made no diference! There is a flap under the air filter, i think this opens on a vacume, could it be this, not sure what it does tbh Edited by: gti_kev
Im having this very same problem. I had the timing and CO checked so i know they are fine. Replaced Fuel filter, dizzy and rotor arm, spark plugs. Cold start valve works, as with it plugged in the revs shoot straight to 1500 for 2 secs then fall to 200 rpm until it clears, with the valve inplugged the car starts at 200rpm and stays there until it clears. I have removed each spark plug and looked, smelt and swabbed with a cotton bud on a stick (haha) and no sign of any fuel in the cylinders so can pretty much rule out a leaky injector.Except maybe a leaky 5th injector. Car runs perfect once the missfire/chugging has cleared (5-10 secs after a cold start) I have noticed that the problem gets gradually worse the longer you leave it, So after about 2 Hrs there is a slight chug, 3 hrs slightly worse and so on, through to leaving it overnight or all day and getting the full 5-10 secs of 200 ish rpm and nearly stalling. Next i am going to remove one HT lead form a plug each morning for the nex 4 mornings to see if one cylinder is at fault (ie, no change with one of the leads removed). This should rule out a spark problem if no change. I havnt tried starting it with the WUR unplugged yet so will try this too. I found a website detailing how to clean the plunger within the metering head so i may give this a go too.
Right, i think i may be a step closer to finding the problem. I decided to clean the metering plunger as in the link above as i was slightly sticky, it has improved the driveability of the car which is now smoother but alas did not cure the starting problem. I then checked the voltage to the wur etc and all of the resistances of temp senders etc. All were fine except my battery seems to be supplying just under 13V! The wur is getting 12.8V too. After no joy again my next step today was to remove the injectors overnight after a run to check for leaks. 3 of the injectors needed a hard pull and a wiggle to get them out but the last one literally fell out, i didnt have to pull it atall, as though it were just sitting in the hole! So i have ordered some new injector 'O' rings (both kinds) to fit when i refit the injectors. Hopefully this was my problem. Fingers Crossed. Any joy with yours Kev?
Hi Wish you luck with the loose injector. By the way, what were the resistance of the temp senders. Please let me know as I measured 1800 ohms on one and 200 on another.
Hi mate, i measured them with a digital meter and got around 1000 ohms when cold and 500 ohms when the car had been running for 5 mins or so. I also swapped the wires round on the 3 senders and observed the temp gauge, the senders are all the same so should all read the same temp mate.
Ok, so the injector seals made no difference to cold starting haha, but have further improved the driveability so im happy about that. I did notice yesterday that the car started perfectly after i had left the ignition on for 5 mins or so (fogot something in the house so jumped out and got it without taking the key out etc), so im gonna experiment with this to see if it happens every time, which i would imagine points to the WUR or fuel pressure (control or system), leaving the ignition on for a while lets the bi-metalic strip warm up and thus alter the fuel flow. Ill keep posting on this thread till i find out whats wrong. I have a few more tests lined up if this one fails to test for too much or too little fuel or air at startup etc etc.
Well i have checked it in the sense that if i increase the revs to around 2500 and press the switch the engine note changes and it hunts slightly. One of the tests im gonna do is to start the car with this disconnected and see if there is any change. Cheers mate.millsy.
I have exactly this on the 16v engine i fitted last weekend, the research I have done poitsd toweards a faulty WUR
Breakthrough Ok, having done a few more tests i have made a breakthrough!! I left the car again with the ignition at position 2 for a while to let the wur warm up but it started as per usual..... BUT...... The car starts perfectly with the idle switch disconnected, no spluttering etc atall!! Woohoo!!! Im gonna check the idle system with a multimeter as per Haynes when i have a bit of time. I drove the car with the switch disconected and there was no noticeable difference apart from the idle being slightly higher, aound 1200 rpm instaed of the usual 1000. So i recon im looking at a faulty switch, control module or a lazy ISV.
Sorry Mattkh, forgot to thank you for your suggestion. Im talking about the little micro switch that the throttle butterfly mech touches when the throttle is closed, its a KR 16V by the way. I presume this is what your talking about too, Idle switch, throttle valve switch? So what does this switch do, i know it switches on the idle control system but what exactly does it turn on, Overrun cutoff (or is this done by vacuum and on constantly?), Diafragm switch, etc. I have noticed no real difference in the way the revs drop to idle when lifting off the accelerator, infact when the car is cold and the switch is connected they drop below 1000rpm slightly then raise back up when lifting off during the first 5 mins or so, But do not with the switch disconnected!
it tells the isv unit the throttle is closed, as well as the vacuum timeswitch on the airbox. haynes has the testing procedure! I have since replaced my wur and the stalling when cold problem has now gone
