Surely the bottom ends have definitive markings? Engine code plus 6 digits, like all the pre-1.8T engines?
I will drag my sorry butt out to "the shed" and have a look after tea! I will even check my alloy block for you chris!
I will get round to weighing it for you soon, but I have got about 5 16v heads in bits at the moment, taking the cams out of one and valves out the other and putting them all in a ported head the lad found. How I wish they were 8v.[:^(] Anyway I have put my "Racing Baffies" on and am going out to check the engine codes question seeing as you have tried to drag this off topic
You just keep your car down south for the moment! The two ADR 20v engines have the code ADR typed onto the head in the same place as Brian's pic's show. My ADR blocks also have the engine code and an engine number in the same place you would find it on an DX, PB or ABF. ie on the block just under the cylinder head beneath cylinders 3 & 4. These 20v engines are the intermediate shaft type and not the newer type. The alloy block has it's code and number typed onto the block just next to the water pump. This is an internal water pump engine.
I'll weigh it all in at the same time. Fine, so that's easy to find. Piccy would be useful. Below cyls 1 & 2 basically, or further down?
A cunning plan Mr Eyre. The pic would show the code! Alloy block code / number location: Top, front of the block on a flat surface below cylinder 1.
Do you not have the netball photoshoppery skillz, Mr? It is very easy to obscure the information. So nip out to the shed again, there's a good chap
Doesn't need photoshop. A bit of masking tape will suffice, or a handily placed cat's paw - although the cat will probably be taking the photos (clever cat, that tabby).
Full engine code (prefixed by the 3 letter code, e.g. AUM etc followed by the six digit unique identifier) is as indicated in the pic below: [/IMG]
Just had a look, its pretty much unreadable...and this block has been cleaned and painted and only had 45k done before being removed and stored, so I cant imagine what an older rustier block would look like? I cant make it out...
Hmm, well cheers definitely for clarifying something Mook. I'm just not buying the idea that you can remove a head and a car loses its engine identity on the spot. Logbooks always show an engine number, manufacturers always log production runs for indentity, parts upgrades etc - so it's just a case of us all being happy where it is on the block.
Not sure, but the engine code is definitely where I've outlined in the photo. The problem with the way the code is stamped into the block is that it's done in the same way as it is into the head - loads of pins arranged to form the letter. These fill with crud and the block, being made of cast iron, rusts. The only way to really find out what it is is to go at it with a wire brush or something similar. The engine pre-code (e.g. AUM, AUQ, BAM etc) is on the head for quick identification in the factory and at dealers, although all dealers now go on the chassis number of the car (assuming the original engine is in the original car!). Hope this helps
Internal water pump though, or external too? Brian stated the latter are as per DX/LR/9A/ABF etc. Edit: Danster just clarified. "20F" is on an internal waterpump block I've got pics of, but to me, that's not a code. Three letter format is what I'm expecting.
