whart exactly happened? just as a little word, there may well be alot of damage to yours, but you've got max of a 1000kg car, where as the hgv will weigh atleast 17x that. and you can rarely feel anything when you hit something.(speaking from a drivers point of view, I hit a van when i was driving a bus, didnt feel a thing, and because it was a low speed accident, i only heard it. my dad has had a car pull out infront of him while he was stationary in traffic, didnt see it pull out, pushed it for 25 meters before a pedestrian flagged him down, didnt hear or feel a thing, you've also got so little vision when driving them, that its very easy to miss or misjudge(as i did) the length of the trailer/back end of the rigid.
Sorry I should have said - It was a delivery truck, not an arctic or anything big. Probably a 7.5 tonne sort of size, like a UPS delivery or similar. I did flash 3-4 times after he went past and blasted my horn but he didn't stop. He could tell hed hit me as he was weaving about a bit after the impact. The Police have told me that my insurance company have to find out the vans details and to do this they must pay the dvla. The guy i spoke to at the insurance company tried to tell me i need to get the detials off the police (company the van was from, drivers name etc...). I guess I have to trust the police and just keep pushing the insurance legal help people to get them to try and find out.... Have tracked down a black door but its a bit of a way away! Anyone got any idea if a mk2 3 door door will fit in the back of a mk2 polo??!! Im guessing not! Cheers D
A mk2 3door golf door fitted in the back of my mk2 Polo squareback no prob with seats down. Don't know about a coupe or loon lol. Good luck with this, I've got a mk2 golf that is close to being scrap because of rust caused by neglect but I'm definitely saving it.
Ah My apologies, was just trying to give an insight into what its like at the other end of the HGV's.
Anything can be repaired. I have repaired quite a few. Years ago an idiot ran me off the road in some kind of hot escort. He was in the wrong, racing with his mate close behind on a single track road and it happened on a bend. I drove off the road to miss him and he stove the side of my beloved car in. How I didn't hit him I will never know. Upshot was it was my wonderful 1973 145 Volvo, hurt that and you hurt me I love it as much as Golfie. Denied it - the side of my car was caved in but he was the one who ended up in the ditch with a totally wrecked car. Serve him right. It has to be seen to believed how strong Volvos were then. Five lof his mates in the Fiesta following, much younger than me threatened and tried bullying me to no avail. I told them to bugger off and they did. Haha no-one likes an angry dangerous woman. His assessor was mortified that not only me but my dogs were in it and survived. Car apparently should have rolled with that impact. Result = he had a record, 5 claims on his mother's insurance. Being what it was I bought it back (good in those days as write offs did not count) got second hand doors and a new wing and it was as good as new. Still have the car- sadly in dire need of a very expensive resto. Might change the Bristol pic for that.
ball park figure? Hi All. I have got another early door (sadly black not monza blue) and decide to go down the road of gettting the car repaired but essentially fairly cheaply (as possible). This means I would prefer to not get another full 3/4 panel done as generally i think this would be too expensive. Looking at it I believe it can be done, but our local body shop has said about a grand to paint the new door i have aquired and to fit and paint a whole new rear 3/4 panel, he dosent think its possible to get a good result by hitting/filling the panel just behind the door. As you can see from my picture below a lot of it popped out when pushed from the inside but it is still pretty smudged/pushed in around the swage line and where it meets the door. What do you think it should cost to get a half decent (presentable) finish? I have absolutley no idea/experience of body shops for this kind of work, i guess its just in the labour costs? As much as I love the car I know in my heart its not worth spending more than a grand as another good mk2 can be had for that. I would love to get it done for less than 600 ideally - does this seem realistic? (I guess getting the door prepped/painted will be 200ish - does all the black paint need to be taken off or paint over it??) Cheers Dan
i wouldnt think you would need to remove black paint,just key the black paint wi 600 wet n dry and hit it wi primer and that should be fine unless there is rust spots whereas you would need to take that right back to bare.cheers
Aye - need to get a few different quotes for the full repair and bodge job and then see if its worth going for it or not. Ive got the figure of about 600 in my head as a maximum repair cost, other wise i think its best to cut losses and break the car up. Thanks D
If youre careful and do some research then 600 isnt an unreasonable price to get it all sorted and you dont need "mates rates" for that. Stay away from garages that do insurance work as they wont really be interested and will be far more expensive than other smaller firms. Post up where you live and someone on here might be able to point in you the direction of a garage that can be trusted. Your black door doesnt need to be taken back to bare metal just flatted and prepped taking away any high or low spots.
If it were me having the job done, I'd go for a new quarter / b pillar. I suspect it will be more expensive for the panel gap between quarter and door to be sorted by a man with a hammer. I may well be proved wrong though . I'd be inclined to go for the new panel as it gives you the opportunity to sort out whatever's lurking around the filler cap area, whereas if you just paint it up now, you'll probably have rust problems there in the future, and be paying out for it again.
A new quarter panel is completely unnecessary. It would be twice the work and 3 times the money all to have a panel on there that will probably rust on the welds in a few years time. The damage from the looks of the photos doesnt warrant major surgery on the car like that.
I second that! It will DEFINATELY rust/bubble on the weld under the boot by the light!! New panels never fit like the current panel so the gapping will be ever-so-slightly out, even if the jobs done really well!
I'd be more inclined to have the rear qutr panel repaired and not a get a new one. Unless the rest of it is rusty just have it repaired as you would probably have more or just as much filler Used putting in the new one than you would repairing that one as you use filler around where the panels been welded in, probably 2 large areas and a couple more smaller areas. But get a new/good second hand door and wing. So long as the motor is important to you that is.
Got the door (secondhand but 98% good condition) and the wing (new, supposedly good quality pattern part) was already done and waiting in the wings (excuse the pun!). Definately going to go down the repair route on the panel if i can get a bodyshop who will entertain the idea. The car has some rust already but nothing that is going to cause problems for 5 or so years (the joint between the rear 3/4 panels and the rear panel is going slightly up the seam from the bottoms - like most of them do, and there is a little rust on the inner panel behind the fuel filler area which isnt visible from the outside.) I do like the car and would like to save it but seems silly to spend over the odds. (perhaps even 600 is a bit over the odds strictly speaking for a mk2) If anyone knows of any good bodyshops around the oxfordshire/wiltshire area please let me know their details! Cheers for the advice D
